Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10kg/mm springs would be shocking on the public roads. Unless you live in an area with smooth roads.

Jump onto the Otomoto website and have a look at their range. HSD HR (what they usually sell) will be fine. 8kg/7kg (f/r) is plenty stiff. If you want less roll, install bigger anti-roll bars on your car. You can also order alternative spring rates.

I have been reading up quite some threads now and looks like Bilstein shocks with lowered King or Whiteline springs is great for the street. What I would like to know is what other parts I need to get like camber/caster tops, bump stops etc?

This looks like a more expensive option than BC BR coilovers from Street To Track at $1150, but the BC BRs would be much stiffer right - even with 6/4kg front/rear springs and softest damper settings?

Where is the cheapest to get Bilsteins, the tops and springs and which Bilsteins? Are KYB shocks even a consideration, its purely a street car, needs to be comfy, good handling- I need lots TRACTION aswl- and lower than stock..cheers

It's a Skyline. You don't need any fancy tops. They are suspension units, not struts. Caster, camber etc are all set elsewhere in the suspension.

Yes, even the heaviest Kings Springs are still less than the 6/4 rates on the BCs.

You need to get Bilstein B6 dampers.

KYB are not really an option. The KYB twin tubes are not comparable with the good Bilsteins. KYB adjustables are not an awesome adjustable. I have a pair of KYB twins in the rear of my car. Have had for years and years. They are on the list of things to change.

Thanks mate, I meant the Bilsteins or any shocks dont come with the bump stops and top plate/washers that bolts to the chasis right? Maybe I could re-use my Cusco ones if they fit.. :S Is it ok to get used Bilsteins? Probably on this forum itself.

Thanks mate, I meant the Bilsteins or any shocks dont come with the bump stops and top plate/washers that bolts to the chasis right? Maybe I could re-use my Cusco ones if they fit.. :S Is it ok to get used Bilsteins? Probably on this forum itself.

from memory, the Bilstein B6 will just reuse the stock bump stops and if not i think your mechanic should be able to source these easily. I think used bilsteins is fine BUT as with any second hand coilovers/shocks, you really need to know how much wear they've had, how old, how many KM etc. Get your Bilsteins from Gary (SK), i think his contact details are somewhere around on this forum, he has direct contacts there - i got mine all 4 delivered for approx 1000$ a few months ago and that was when the AUD was on top, now, i don't know how much it'll be. but give him a yell.

King springs are around 300$ more, so all up, it should cost ~1400$ give or take.

Thanks darksky, I just called Heasemans -$620 for a PAIR of Bilsteins for R34, then I have to get bumpstops, springs, shock top plates from a wrecker etc. Looking at 1600-1700ish already just to get more traction out of my setup. Not worth it imho, I am still rather keen on the Billies though. BC BRs at 1150 would be much better value but maybe stiffer even on softest setting. Wonder how 'rubbish' KYBs are compared to Bilsteins if Im forced to go down that way. The guy at Heaseman's told me my ride height is determined by the springs and not the shocks, I did think the shocks also play a small part in height reduction from stock :S

I have Bilsteins with king springs all round in my R33, i got them organized through GSL RallySport on here. I think i got them for roughly $1200 when they had a deal going on. They might be able to help out.

Really nice especially compared to stock, have been in a few cars which have your typical jap coilovers and they are alot smoother. But still nice and firm with out being over the top, however i did do a major overhaul when i got them installed with sway bars and bushes all round so its hard to tell how much each item did in terms of steering response.

rondofj, contact Gary! he will give you a quote for all the items you need - just tell him what you want.

mystery kid, i have spoken to some members here who have had ZZRs in their car, they said it was fine for streeting, however i have also spoken to mechanics who told me that ZZRs are same as BC BR just painted differently - how much better would you expect their suspension to be, at the same price?

I have been reading up quite some threads now and looks like Bilstein shocks with lowered King or Whiteline springs is great for the street. What I would like to know is what other parts I need to get like camber/caster tops, bump stops etc?

This looks like a more expensive option than BC BR coilovers from Street To Track at $1150, but the BC BRs would be much stiffer right - even with 6/4kg front/rear springs and softest damper settings?

Where is the cheapest to get Bilsteins, the tops and springs and which Bilsteins? Are KYB shocks even a consideration, its purely a street car, needs to be comfy, good handling- I need lots TRACTION aswl- and lower than stock..cheers

http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/8472344/hsd-ad-type-coliovers-for-skyline-er34.html

These are heaps comfortable on Sydney roads (compared to the stiffer stuff, including the Blitz ones from JustJap). HSD AD is on S15 and street only. Blitz ZZ-R on S14 (think they're 8kg/6kg f/r) and car is street/track. For road only, AD for sure (if they made them for GT-R I would have them right now). If you're going to take it to the track or want a "stiff" setup, then HSD HR/BC BR/Blitz ZZ-R. All for <$1,500

Bilstein is more expensive but you get what you pay for. Their low range control is really good (ripple control) mainly due to the large piston diameter. If you can afford it, then get them.

Hey Nizmoman thanks for the heads up, wherebouts are you in Sydney do you mind me checking your car out with the HSD AD, maybe in the weekend- I would really like to take a short ride in any Skyline/Silvia with either HSD/BC coilovers or Bilstein struts. I'm in Parra, can drive up to any kind fellow who will allow me to get a feel for his suspension setup haha.. Just need to compare against my current Cuscos and get what I need after trying..

Sorry man, should've mentioned that the cars I mentioned are my friends. I have old Ohlins dampers and Eibach springs on my GT-R. Also have flogged out upper front arms so the experience isn't pleasant.

S15 mate has the HSD AD dampers on full hard and it's still pretty comfy (on par with the Blitz on soft on S14 mate's car).

Trust me, the AD will be better than any random Jap suspension for Sydney. I couldn't believe the ADs were that soft, perfect for street (good body control and ripple control). Plus, it's a thousand bucks. Wind it up and down until you're happy with height. Win in; go for it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...