Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ladies, gents.
I've been a long time lurker here on SAU, (since 2006) and I have only recently began to post more regularly and I've enjoyed it so much I decided to start a build thread.
For those interested, a bit of history on the car and myself. Please feel free to skip.
My name is Tim and I'm 26 Y.O. qualified mechanic and fridgy in Horsham Victoria. I first purchased this car in 2006 after saving up enough money working during my gap year. Mechanically the car was pretty standard (cat-back exhaust, lowered struts etc) but it was quite neat and coming from a Mitsubishi Colt, I thought it was a rocket ship.
Time passed and I went to Uni, but I couldn't stand seeing my mates back home modifying their cars and entering drift events, while I stood on the side lines and watched. I was offered an Apprenticeship during my Uni holidays and now, I'm still there to this day.
I slowly began to modify my car and I entered as many Vicdrift days at Winton as I could afford. Only earning $6 an hour limited me to about 3 drift days a year.
Both myself and the car slowly improved but as time went on, the mates that I would embark on Drift days with, either sold up, moved on/away, had families etc and suddenly I was the only one left. I attended a few drift days by myself but it just wasn't the same.
So here I was, stuck in Apprenticeship,a purpose built car with no purpose, no mates and no outlet. Before long I was diagnosed with depression, anxiety etc and both myself and the car were a lot worse for wear.
But here I am writing this in the hope that it will provide me with some direction and something to look forward to.
In saying that, I have recently purchased some new parts for the car to give it a revamp of sorts. Details of these parts will come later but current specs of the car are as follows;
10/92 R32 GTS-T type M manual coupe. RB20DET 170,xxxkm.
Engine:
HKS 25/30 KAI turbo kit with flame proof sleeving for the braided lines.
Kn'N M's air filter with custom 3" intake to turbo
CAI with carbon fiber air box.
GTR blow of valve plumbed back.
Tomei Poncams.
Greddy V-SPL tube and fin FMIC.
No A/C
Koyo 52mm alloy radiator.
Cusco radiator cooling plate/air guide.
R33 fan shroud.
R34 Neo clutch hub and fan.
HKS oil cooler kit with remote filter mount (inc. temp and pressure sensors) made up of Earls braided lines and fittings.
3" turbo back exhaust with twin 3" tips.
Greddy catch can.
Custom bash plate to protect the sump from Winton's big ripple strips.
Silicon radiator hoses with temp sensor adapter in upper hose.
Turbosmart silicon joiners.
Wurth hose clamps.
BCP6E-11 spark plugs.
Makes 220rwkw on a "Safe as houses" tune.
Electronics:
AP Engineering Apexi Power FC
Z32 AFM
Nismo 550cc injectors.
Apexi AVC-R (black)
Apexi turbo timer (black)
Defi BF 60mm white boost gauge
Defi BF 60mm white oil temp gauge
Defi BF 60mm white oil pressure gauge
Defi BF 60mm white water temp gauge
Defi control unit.
Tomei Hicas lock.
HKS twin power CDI and harness.
Splitfire coil packs.
New genuine coil pack harness.
Bosch 040
Suspension/Driveline:
Tein Super Drift coilovers. (7kg fr. & 5kg rr)
24mm Whiteline front adjustable sway bar (set to soft)
22mm Whiteline rear adjustable sway bar (set to hard)
Cusco front upper camber arms (10mm shorter)
Cusco castor rods
Cusco castor rod/k-frame brace
R33 front lower control arms (longer than R32)
NP Knuckles.
NP offset rack spacer.
Ikeya formula tie rods
Ikeya formula tie rod ends.
Cusco rear camber arms
Cusco traction rods.
Cusco front strut tower bar.
Cusco rear strut tower bar.
Cusco BMC stopper.
Tomei Hicas lock Kit.
Excedy 5 puk button clutch.
Kazz 2-way diff.
Brakes:
All new genuine handbrake cables from handbrake to drums.
Project MU drift handbrake shoes
Bendix ultimate pads front and rear.
Interior:
Brown Davis half cage with harness bar and removable side intrusion bars.
Willans four point harness (x2) with Willans Harness pads (x4)
Nardi 350mm Deep corn steering wheel.
Nismo leather shift knob.
Bride Brix drivers seat.
R32 GTR passenger seat.
No rear seats.
New genuine mid console, dash surround, handbrake and gear boots.
Spin turn/drift handbrake and button.
Exterior:
Sunroof
Trust front bumper
R32 GTR bonnet, grill and latch.
Type M side skirts.
Type M rear pods/bibs.
No rear spoiler.
LED light up 'SKYLINE' rear garnish.
Couple of stickers here and there.
Wheels/Tyres:
Volk Racing GT-7 wheels.
17x8+10 front with 215/45/17 Federal 595's
17x9+16 rear with 235/45/17 Fedreal 595's
Ray's Blue duralimun wheel nuts.
Wheel Alignment:
Front
3.5 degrees negative camber
7.0 dergress positive castor
6mm total toe out. 3mm each side.
Rear
1.0 degree negative camber
0 rear toe.
Servicing:
Tuned for and only ran on BP98.
Genuine oil filter and Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 engine oil changed before and after each track day and probably less than 2500km in between or every 6 months.
Copper plugs changed every 2500km
Subaru upper cylinder cleaner each service. (this stuff is gold)
Genuine fuel filter( 6months/2500km)
Tectaloy 100 coolant.( 6months)
Shell Donax Td 5w-30 P/S fluid. ( 6months/2500km)
Redline lightweight synthetic shockproof gearbox oil.
Kazz diff oil.
Shell dot 4 Clutch and brake fluid.( 6months/2500km)
Obligatory pics.
1285311273.jpg
1285311281.jpg
1285311288.jpg
995814309_RmzTC-O.jpg
1285311296.jpg
e0ecfd38-3f2f-42ad-a25b-5344c7292a57_zps
33796_184407571574414_1371232_n.jpg
150822_184670194881485_4056428_n.jpg
67096_184670224881482_6267516_n.jpg
164347_184669761548195_7731732_n.jpg
P7310765-1.jpgWinton15.jpg
Thanks for reading.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428172-white-gts-ts-white-gts-t/
Share on other sites

So today, for the first time in a long time I worked on the car. Some of the aforementioned new parts that I have to be fitted include this Midori Seibi HICAS eliminator kit. Now I had already fitted the Tomei HICAS eliminator kit years ago, but this time I wanted to do away with the HICAS rack and all associated plumbing.

155_zps0d000f36.jpg

I was so glad to see this all go.

168_zpsa94aee5a.jpg

174_zps97ebecd0.jpg

I put all the old HICAS gear on the refrigeration scales. The total weight saving came in at around 15kg.

169_zpsd3362c95.jpg

The rear end is much simpler now.

162_zps5b9fddaf.jpg

A quick bypass of the front HICAS pump, a change and bleed of fresh p/s fluid and adjusting the rear toe and it's right to go. (mind the mess)

166_zps8e7e1324.jpg

Some more parts that I have been collecting.

R33 GTR Brembo calipers front and rear.
Genuine Nissan front and rear caliper seal kits to suit Brembos.
Project MU braided brake lines front and rear.
Project Mu HC+ brembo brake pads front and rear.
Project Mu SCR Brembo rotor front and rear
Project Mu Super 7 lock nut
Project MU brake and clutch fluid reservoir covers.
104_zps34709e20.jpg
107_zps766c2e46.jpg
134_zpsd144fb73.jpg
119_zps2c814321.jpg
140_zpsd2c123c1.jpg
130_zpsd3e8abb1.jpg

I just picked up these Brembo stencils from the graphics designer.

2HgQTPYwieb8183wMVLkyNyOxjzQljxwYXk-XXzx

I'm still undecided on whether to paint them myself or to get them powder coated. But this is the colour scheme I'm after.

mY_JI0KgqRPD2ycNEv51HslIiET39rK0ulnMCJRg

Should look nice behind the TE37SL's.

  • 3 weeks later...

So the other day while removing all the HICAS gear I noticed that the L/H tie rod end had some play and that that the L/H rack end boot was split.

I've had this a set of Ikeya Formula tie rods and tie rod ends as spares for years, so I thought I'd fit up the new ones and keep the used ones as spares.

2013-07-06160403_zpsc594d62d.jpg

I also noticed that the steering rack bushes were looking a bit worse for wear, so I arranged a new set to fit up. I wanted to fit Nismo bushes, but there is no listing for the L/H bush for twin cam R32's.

2013-07-28120356_zps813a5482.jpg

I've still got $200 worth of Burson's vouchers left over from a Chritmas bonus so that made these Superpro items hard to go past.

2013-07-28123315_zps3c3fc613.jpg

Here you can see the new rack bushes fitted up and also the offset rack spacers.

2013-07-28131753_zpsf4b81b83.jpg

Here's a look at the modified lock stops on the R33 LCA's and the modified knuckles, all in the hunt for more steering lock.

2013-07-28131814_zps3d2e0833.jpg

L/H side all fitted up with new silicon rack end boots.

2013-07-28144600_zps9707997f.jpg

R/H side done.

2013-07-28144553_zpsc8ab5869.jpg

Next up is to paint the Brembo calipers and get the brakes all sorted and some tyres fitted to the TE's

Edited by White GTS-T

Hey mate, quite the beast of a car you have made! I wanted to ask you if you've had any issues with the HICAS eliminator kit. Or more specifically, the mounting brackets that bolts to the subframe. I've found that the bracket can pivot on the bolt if the wheel takes a horizontal impact, eg riding over a side strip at speed, causing it to toe in massively. but im not sure if it was because i didnt tighten the bolts up hard enough..

Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate it.

Landsribble, I can't definitively say yet, as I have only done a handful of street km since fitting the Hicas eliminator kit. But I understand what you are saying, as even with the quality of the Midori Seibi kit there was the provision for the bracket to be mounted a couple of degrees either side of horizontal. Foregoing that, I can see how it could change the toe, if the bolt was to loosen. Hence, I have just ordered a set of Ikeya Formula Maple A-One gauges, so I will be able to keep a closer eye on the wheel alignment. I'll report back my findings.

They are actually Bursons/Motorgear items, but they look and feel fantastic. They're stronger and more flexible than the standard rubber items and being VT Commodore boots they are always in stock.

I get all my parts through Jesse Streeter and I can't recommend him highly enough.

Edited by White GTS-T
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...