Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Girls,

i am currently parting out a Series 1 R33 4 door GTST. Puple in colour

post-60871-0-57336600-1373185759_thumb.jpg

Motor and Gearbox are sold, but everything else is up for sale. Shell is straight, but is defected.

S1 headlights $250

S1 bonnet (Black) $125

Front brake calipers and rotors $300

Rear brake calipers and rotors $125

Front LCA's $150 pair

Engine X member $100

Washer Bottle (with motors) $30

Overflow Bottle $30

Side Mirrors $30 ea

Type M front bar (with indicators) $130

Acc pedal $30

Manual Brake pedal $30

Doors with glass $100 each

Door regulators $95 each

S2 seats (no rips, good condition) $150 the pair

S1 rear seat (average conditon) $30

Seat belts (set) $50

Centre console $40

Manual gearstick surround (minus stick boot) $30

Dash (great condition) $75

Dash faschia (around cluster) $75

Steering column $50

Ignition barell and locks $75

boot lid (no spoiler) Black $100 also have a black boot with spoiler $100

Rear side skirt pods $40

A pillar, B pillar trims, door cards etc $ask for a price

Diff (manual) $125

Half shafts $50 each

Handbake setup (lever and cablesetc) $125

Front windscreen $150

Rear windscreen $150

Rear cradle (bare, no arms) $75

Complete floor carpet $75

Front Lh guard $50

Glove box $30

Climate Control unit $30

Front reo (barely cut, slight touch ups) $125

Cluster (Auto) $30

S1 Tail lights and Garnish $125

Window Switches Drivers $50

Front Guard indicators $30

Rear Bar (standard) $50

All Prices above are negotiable

If there is anything i have missed, please dont hesitate to ask. I have parts left over from a previous R33 4 door wreck (black) and parts available for R33 2 Doors GTST.

Willing to post smaller items at buyers expense

Pictures Available on request.

Located In SA in the Adelaide Hills area

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428236-wrecking-r33-4-door-gtst-in-sa/
Share on other sites

Interested in the following if you have it:

Radiator fan shroud (Must be excellent nic)

Rad upper and lower rubber mounts

Might be interested in a radiator too - can be any condition even bin condition

Friend might be interested in bare rear sub frame.

Where in the hills are you?

Cheers.

Hey mate, 2 things, do you have the plastic steering column surround and the little bit of plastic that goes around the ignition barrel? If so, how much? Cheers, Brenton.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...