Gear box noises

[NismoGirl]

A while ago when ra... driving fa.... driving our gear box crunched forth gear... Well it's been a few months now and its progressively gotten worse (excuse the great english there)

Just driving around gentley it is starting to crunch everytime we shift from third to fouth. Am I right in guessing the synchros are foorked.?

My question is... whats the best and cheapest way to get this fixed?? (Even though it sounds tough when your.... driving.. next to someone... at the same speed :uhh: )

Our clutch is also slipping a lot. The car decides it would rather spin the clutch really fast than spin the tyres. We've heard that you can "upgrade" the current clutch to some heavy duty one (not sure on brands or what) and its meant to be really good for around $600! Is this true?

What amounts of debt are we looking at here for getting the gearbox and clutch problem fixed?

Also "heard" along the grape vine that having gearbox problems can decrease the cars power.. is this true?

Thanks in advance.

[Bozz]

Having gearbox problems in a manual cannot reduce your power. It is either all or nothing, unlike an auto which can induce slippage just like the clutch slippage you are currently experiencing.

I just replaced my factory clutch on the RB25DET with a reco PBR one, it's got a stronger grab and is lighter on the foot. I'd guess its good for up to 250kw, maybe more. Best bonus was it cost under $200

As to the synchro's on your gearbox, yes its most likely them that are faulty unless you have problems getting the gearbox into reverse. If the box crunches whenever you try to put it into reverse then its most likely a misadjusted or worn or faulty clutch. Could still be the gearbox though. A manual gearbox is a very simple piece of machinary to understand that must be kept at very precise tolerances. As to the cost, I have NFI....

[Brody]

I have the same problem, and found that 'ezy glide' (gbox oil additive) helped the problem alot.

On another note,

I have problems getting into reverse, and also first, and now other gears, i thought it was just the gates? Is it possible that the clutch is causing this?

My clutch was put in by shonky ppl that charged *alot* and ****d my flywheel at the same time...they're at croyden *hint*.

[KamikazeR33]

check out UAS for what they can do to the standard gearbox

i was reading it the other day on their site and getting a few things done to it will actually give u some more power that it was taking away from the wheels

[Brody]

Ah im just going to ask Hills auto (behind uas) to take a look at it when i get a cash injection...Got a feeling its going to be a new gbox, which is a suprise coz the car is/was in mind condition when i got it...

From what Bozz said it wouldn't suprise me that the wankers that put in my clutch wrecked alot more than just my flywheel & slave cyl.

[Jay95R33]

NISMOGirl,

Hmm, not good.

Try the cheapest first. Drain the gearbox oil and put in some good stuff. VMX80 is pretty good, or if you want to go right out get the RedLine stuff. I think the VMX80 stuff will set you back about $30, while the RedLine is about $80-100. You'll need about 3.8lt.

I had problems with second gear, and the VMX80 fixed it up

If the clutch isn't disengaging (spelling) enough, it will cause crunches into gears, but usually all/most gears.

I'd drain and replace the oil first, then if that don't work get the clutch looked at/replaced and see how you go after that.

Good luck

J

[NismoGirl]

Well.. after speaking to the mechanic today it looks like I'm in for a gearbox rebuild. AND as I'm as mechanical as a potatoe and so is andrew... hes maybe as mechanical as a spud. We are going to send it to Gavin Woods (our trusty mechanic )

He quoted me today that it would cost around $1100 to get all the synchros changed in the gearbox and $600 to get the clutch "upgraded" as I spoke about in my first post.

Is this alot?? I wouldn't have a clue. I wasn't expecting it to be this much but oh well... thems the brakes!

Sooo.. anyone wanna donate some money to the "Help Erin fix her car" fund??

:uh-huh:

Course you all do...

[NIZ30]

Hey Erin....where's Gavin at? I have all the same problems (except clutch) and $1100 for a full rebuild is pretty fooking good, from what I have enquired into. Specially for R33. 32s are cheaper and I have been told atleast that just for parts.

[NismoGirl]

Gavin is at labrador down the coast.. I've referred a few people there and all have had nothing but praise for him..

I should start charging commission.

Even though its about a 30-40 minute drive... its the best customer service we've ever had. I can't say one bad thing about it.

Except I dont get discounts for sending so many people his way :lol:

[_turtle_]

i think Jay's right, try the cheapest option first

i use to have problems with gear change, crunching from 1st to 2nd. changed the oil, put in castrol vmx 80 and some nulon g70 which someone else recommended and it worked a treat.

very smooth changes even in the mornings. wouldn't hurt giving that a go since it'll only set u back $30 or so.

[Cubes]

You could save quite a few $$ by poping down to nissan picking up some syncro's.

Rip the gearbox out and slap them in.

Replace the front and rear seals.. For the 32 for example the front seal is $5.

[NIZ30]

Not that mechanically minded, not totally helpless though. Nor do I have the time or the location to perform such a job.

I'm as mechanical as a potatoe and so is andrew... hes maybe as mechanical as a spud.

I'm sure NismoGirl will agree with that too.

[Cubes]

Its all about not being scared to get in there.

I think you would be quite surprised how easy it is..

Problem is you need tools and possibly a press.

[NIZ30]

And space to park a car and pull apart a gearbox.

[puckish]

Would someone please change the freaking gearbox oil in this womans car. Goddamn.

You'll find that it will probably save you $1K.

Oh and add a friction modifier. I use Uniglyde with great results.

3rd to 4th shift problems as you described disappeared!

[Squizz]

Erin, call me.

[NismoGirl]

Originally posted by puckish

Would someone please change the freaking gearbox oil in this womans car.  Goddamn.  

You'll find that it will probably save you $1K.

Oh and add a friction modifier. I use Uniglyde with great results.

3rd to 4th shift problems as you described disappeared!

I shall say again. THIS HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE AND IT DIDN"T DAMN WELL WORK...

wouldn't you think I'd LOVE to save that amount of money if I could??

And Jay... you called me

And by the way. I got the final quote today and I'm not too impressed

I think there is only going to be one synchro changed and thats it. I can't afford the money they are talking!

[[ABU53]]

Well susprise suprise. My GTS-4 (grand a month) is having the same problems. Only, I know that it was me who fudged the box (ain't that right shaun)!

Basically, the steps I am going to take are......

1. Change box oil

2. Adjust clutch (This is more than likely my prob)

3. Re-build gearbox

4. Go all out and buy GTR box.

(I like No. 4 the best)

[puckish]

__________Quote_______________________________

I shall say again. THIS HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE AND IT DIDN"T DAMN WELL WORK...

wouldn't you think I'd LOVE to save that amount of money if I could??

______________________________________________

Then the sycros are stuffed.. But i changed my G/B oil twice to fix it cos the amount of metal i found in the box was crazy. first time acted as a flush....

[Cubes]

Thats why you should always service your car when you first get it.

Diff oil everything.

And if you still luck out it is to be expected as really you don't know what the car has been previously driven like.

My previous VS Commodore V8 had 66,000km's on it when i bought it and the manual crapped its self around 15,000km's later then the diff then the rear chassis cracked around where the IRS diff bolts on and the arse end dropped to the ground.

All up..

G/box rebuild $1200.

Diff Rebuild $1100.

Rear Chassis ~$1800.

Thats repair bills.

All within 9 months of owning the car.