Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I started a custom car build about 3 month ago and have a very ambitious and radical vision for the end product. Being that iv been in the custom car world and modifying them for 18 year or so i know that this will be the frist build in a long time that will push me and maximize my abilities. That being said here's what im building The powertrain is a full R33 GTR powertrain motor, tranny, diff's. the chassis is a full tubbular chassis with a honda S2000 rear suspension clip the front uses civic control arms and Ksport is making custom coilovers for me. Driveshaft Shop.com is making all 4 axle rated to 800HP and driveshaft to 1200HP. Ill be using Ksport big brakes all round 14" 8 piston up front and 13" 6 piston in the rear i have 19"X9.5 TSW rims all the way round right now but am plaining on a staggered set up probably a BC custom offset rims 19x9.5 front and 19x11 rear and i looked at tire sizes an with a 265/30/19 up front and a 315/25/19 rear the rolling measurement is with in a 1/3 of a % so not to have center diff issues. ill have LSD's front and rear plus a twin puck clutch. and ill use a ETS-Pro center diff controller to stick it all. The RB26 will get full built and ill start a thread on the motor build soon want to see what you guys think of the set up im plaining on. The body is my own design its very hard to explain but its bits from a hand full of concept cars that i like and my own style mixed in. It will be steel exoskeleton wrapped in fiberglass and carbon fiber using the steel for extra strength and mounting tabs cus this car will be raced on the weekends and car events exc. I dont want this car to be fragile. I want to use it so im sure when you see the pic's you'll see im over building it on purpose. plus the added safety will keep me alive ill be adding more pic's as i go and if you have any Questions hit me up

post-115596-0-09430300-1373325189_thumb.jpg

post-115596-0-52991400-1373325203_thumb.jpg

post-115596-0-56983700-1373325213_thumb.jpg

Sounds like it should be quite an in depth build. I've always wanted to build a car around an engine/driveline.

Look forward to seeing it all take shape, with 18 years experience you should know what you're doing!

What's the plans for the body shape? Will it just be covering the skeleton or be a smooth traditional looking shape?

The body will be a fluid shape im using cold rolled 1/4" round bar steel to make the shape, kind like a spider web, plus to have strong mounting tabs. Then the steel will be wraped in fiber glass to create the fluid shape. then finally wraped in custom died blue carbon fiber. The carbon fiber will match the paint color so i can leave some of the carbon fiber exposed and it will all tie into the paint color. Im not very good at drawing 3D renderings so it would be hard to show the design I have some real simple 2D renderings Iv been working on ill post them once Iv finished them

I for one would like to see some drawings. Better to give people an idea of what your mind is seeing. I remember a 4wd 32 highboy a few years ago that had 350 s/b and Blazer transaxle. Damn thing cut 11's without a worry and handled very, very well. By the way, a big single would tidy up the engine bay area considerably.

I had one each of a 55, 56 and 57 Chevy so I am wondering if this is a racing style your building or classic or hotrod.

The design i would have to say is going to be kinda a modern concept car im taking little bits of styling cues from concept cars Audi, Citrin,Jaguar and throwing my own style in. Here is a rough sketch of what the front will look like. Like i said before im not very good at 3D renderings Ill post the rear and side views once im happy with the design

post-115596-0-94465200-1373490568_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...