Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

New R32 ball screws have finally turned up.

PM me if you need them and ill send them out.

If there is anyone in Sydney who bought a R32 damper set and can bring their car to my house for a test would be great.

Hi Dave - Great news mate.

I bought 2 sets for R32 GTR so would appreciate 2 sets of the ball screws please.

Like me to send you my Postal details again and any additional cost ?

Cheers

Richard

Just tested them out (thanks Braden), ball screw with damper is low enough so it doesnt bow the bonnet. :)

One thing I noticed, there are two screws in the top corner of the guard. The front one needs to be removed on each side.

Might be able to get away with not removing it if you put the bracket in between the bonnet and the hinge.

Just me being fussy.

Ball screws have been sent to those who have contacted me.

I also have for sale a set of R32 GTR dampers that I used for testing. Works perfectly.

$50 Pickup SW Sydney.

Fitting advice:

Screw the screw in all the way then back out 5-6 turns.

Fit the damper to it and make sure the can freely move in normal operation.

If you think you can lower the screw head more and still have normal operation, do so.

33 and 34 GTR sets are still not available.

to be honest, i have no clue as to why no kits for 33 GTR, but is this something that is in the works in the future with the current struts or well and truly too hard basket..

cheers,

Just tested them out (thanks Braden), ball screw with damper is low enough so it doesnt bow the bonnet. :)

One thing I noticed, there are two screws in the top corner of the guard. The front one needs to be removed on each side.

Might be able to get away with not removing it if you put the bracket in between the bonnet and the hinge.

Just me being fussy.

Hey Dave - this may help mate for Any one who got the 32 GTR dampers.

I Tried fitting them up today. Followed instructions and found something interesting.

Firstly removed the top bolt on each guard panel and then placed the damper bracket between the bonnet and the hinge and put the bolts in. (didn't use the ones supplied as they are too thin - Suggest use the original bonnet hinge bolts). The bonnet stayed about 1cm over normal (flush) for 2/3 the distance towards the front lip. I could close the bonnet completely - but only because it's flexible.

Gave it some thought and put a piece of paper over the guard into the bay where the guard bolts, hinge bolts and screw ball support was.

What I found (besides the bolts and screw ball visually not touching anything) was a nice 2cm straight cut in the paper.

Perhaps this pic explains better. I can see 2 options.

1. Grind down to the yellow line on the screw ball support in the pic or

2. Cut the panel guard.

What you do is ultimately up to you. But for me option 1 is the go which hopefully I'll get to tomorrow, if I can borrow a grinder.

Have some tips that make it a lot easier when fitting but don't have time at the moment.

Cheers

Richard

(Edit: There is sufficient metal that it will not weaken where the screw ball is)

Edited by Sinista32

Hey Dave - this may help mate for Any one who got the 32 GTR dampers.

I Tried fitting them up today. Followed instructions and found something interesting.

Firstly removed the top bolt on each guard panel and then placed the damper bracket between the bonnet and the hinge and put the bolts in. (didn't use the ones supplied as they are too thin - Suggest use the original bonnet hinge bolts). The bonnet stayed about 1cm over normal (flush) for 2/3 the distance towards the front lip. I could close the bonnet completely - but only because it's flexible.

Gave it some thought and put a piece of paper over the guard into the bay where the guard bolts, hinge bolts and screw ball support was.

What I found (besides the bolts and screw ball visually not touching anything) was a nice 2cm straight cut in the paper.

Perhaps this pic explains better. I can see 2 options.

1. Grind down to the yellow line on the screw ball support in the pic or

2. Cut the panel guard.

What you do is ultimately up to you. But for me option 1 is the go which hopefully I'll get to tomorrow, if I can borrow a grinder.

Have some tips that make it a lot easier when fitting but don't have time at the moment.

Cheers

Richard

(Edit: There is sufficient metal that it will not weaken where the screw ball is)

Interesting.

Keep us updated with how you get on with it.

Cheers

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...