Car Trailer

[essay]

Have owned Tilta with wheel rack for 3 years, no issues, very easy load/unload, only recommendation is to get flat floor now that its available.

No probs with opening door over mudguard with lowered R34, relatively easy exit, well I'm 6'5" with cage, can someone tell me how you open door on Nevco without hitting guards as per Porsche 911 photo on website.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Have owned Tilta with wheel rack for 3 years, no issues, very easy load/unload, only recommendation is to get flat floor now that its available.

No probs with opening door over mudguard with lowered R34, relatively easy exit, well I'm 6'5" with cage, can someone tell me how you open door on Nevco without hitting guards as per Porsche 911 photo on website.

Sweet, they certainly look the goods...

[JZP]

I have a Tilta but find it rattles a lot . Also found out a batch of the tyres they used were problematic.

Any of you other owners experience the same/similar?

[essay]

Have owned Tilta with wheel rack for 3 years, no issues, very easy load/unload, only recommendation is to get flat floor now that its available.

No probs with opening door over mudguard with lowered R34, relatively easy exit, well I'm 6'5" with cage, can someone tell me how you open door on Nevco without hitting guards as per Porsche 911 photo on website.

My bad, pic shows car with trailer lowering, looks clear in the uppermost position.

[34GeeTeeTee]

I have a Tilta but find it rattles a lot . Also found out a batch of the tyres they used were problematic.

Any of you other owners experience the same/similar?

Doesnt sound good... Must be something wrong? Loose?

[essay]

I have a Tilta but find it rattles a lot . Also found out a batch of the tyres they used were problematic.

Any of you other owners experience the same/similar?

Mine 'rattles' only when empty, otherwise smooth and quiet. No probs with tyres, store with car permanently on board with airbags deflated. As a tip for owners leave air release valve in the closed position as wasps have a tendency to build nest in the valve and one side inflates, the other remains down

[BunsenBurna]

Can anyone opine on the quality/value of one of these?

http://www.triktrailers.com.au/car-bike-trailers.htm

[dasic1]

If you go to any VSCRC rounds you will see many of their trailers there.

I was going to buy one from him but ended up getting a tow truck

[Reese69]

^{I had a link on my facebook of a trailer on air bags - trailer lowers flat and drive straight on - looks amazing - if i can get a link i will post}

[34GeeTeeTee]

Started looking at trailers... Local shop can make one to suit the 34 for around $4500 drive away including a few extras...

Looked on eBay and saw all sorts of cheap options but hard to tell what you are paying for.

Can't justify spending the cash for a tilta, mainly because I need to spend that cash on the 34 itself lol...

So what is the essentials list to check for when buying? Metal thickness? Brakes? Drawbar size etc?

[warps]

Too many variables to give a straight answer on that, but a long drawbar will generally be much more stable and much easier to reverse. If you're getting one made, make sure that the manufacturer is into racing / rallying etc, and actually uses the trailers. They will have a much better understanding of what makes a good trailer. My trailer was built by Chris Wedding (Trailers by Chris) who has been rallying for a long time, and through motorsport has been involved in towing a lot of cars. He has a very good knowledge of what works and what doesn't, and makes a brilliant trailer. I believe e's since sold the business, so not sure what their quality is like now.

Don't be tempted by cheap ebay specials. My last one was a cheap "fixer upper" which was horrible. After spending over a grand and countless hours rebuilding everything, it was still a shitbox (albeit with a bling paintjob and LED lights). Was glad to see it go and buy a proper trailer.

Oh, another thing (just my personal opinion here). Never loan your trailer out. Every time I loaned by old trailer it came back needing money spent on it, or some incidental damage. Each time the borrower said "ÿeh sorry bout that - didn't realise I forgot to [insert stupid omission here]". Now I have a nice new trailer, it only gets used by me. Call me selfish, but until people start treating my stuff the way I do, they're not getting their hands on my trailer.

If you want to tow an R34, the trailer will need to be rated to over 2 tonne gross (unless you get an uber light one, but trailers are generally going to weigh 500kg plus). If the total weight (trailer plus load) goes over 2 tonnes, then you need brakes on all 4 wheels, and a break away system to apply brakes in the event the trailer becomes detached from the towing vehicle. Do some research on this (local transport department - building light trailers etc.)

Edited August 12, 2013 by warps

[34GeeTeeTee]

^^^ This is the exact sort of feedback i was after!

Ill have to look into the brakes a bit harder, the custom one we discussed was rated to carry 2T from my understanding plus its own weight which would give it a total of 2.5T which is also the vehicle towing capacity, ill have to double check but that is what i understood! Ill see if the missus took a photo of the rough design.

Funnily we discussed the rules of lending the trailer on the way home, the answer will be "Fark off" basically

Appreciate the reply!

[Duncan]

really good tips from warps, I'd add a few other things.

Keep the bed as low as possible. No matter what other tricks come into it, a low bed makes every car easier to load. We used small diameter wheels and tyres, and low axles, to keep the bed down. The higher you are the harder it is to load low cars, and the harder it is when you inevitably end up pushing a car on one day.

Design a good mounting system in. The best way is chain links at the front and straps through hooks at the rear....that will ensure it never comes off but allows you to tighten it down nicely. There are some good over wheel tie down options too. But keep in mind not every car will be able to roll when it goes on (eg after you roll it 7 times off a cliff, or after a wheel is torn off. of if it is a shell on the way to sims metal)

Put a cheapy super cheap winch on it. They live in the sun and die regularly so don't bother spending on something quality.

Think about onboard storage. Spare wheel (or even better 2), tiedown, basic tools, hand cleaner and rag storage (invaluable), jerry cans, spare tyre rack. On the other hand, don't put too much general storage in because a trailer is almost always not secure (eg don't store expensive tools on board). Also depending how serious the events are, consider how you might secure the jerry can filler necks from silly buggers.

These days, wire in a reversing camera on the rear of the trailer as well as the car to make life easy

Get a big jockey wheel.

Make sure it is well painted and that the wiring is a quality install and well protected.

I've also lived with a cheapy that was fixed up over the years, it ended up working OK in the end but it was called the death trailer for a reason for a lot of it's life. In the end it took 2 new axles and suspension to get it to tow right, we spent twice the up front cost fixing and maintaining it. I'm buying new next time.

And finally....I agree....don't lend it. People abuse stuff that is not theirs, the more you think you can trust them the worse it is. I lent mine to the owner of a workshop in seven hills (no cost), it came back with a tyre that didn't hold air, gouged rim and bent axle, but "no way, nothing happened".

[benm]

1. galvanised

2. brand new Light truck tyres (x5)

3. galvanised

4. eBay winch (bought yearly as Duncan previously mentioned)

5. galvanised

6. Number plate on a hinge

7. galvanised

8. dolly wheels under the very back rear corners so instead of scraping or getting the trailer stuck on low driveways it just rolls on the dolly wheels

9. galvanised

10. drop axles

11. galvanised

12. LED lights

13. galvanised

14. make sure the inner guards are covered so rocks don't flick up from the trailer tyres and scratch your doors

[Duncan]

oh yep I agree with 6 and 8 too. I straightened that number plate so many times, and a long trailer can scrape on surprisingly small angles.

but I don't really agree with the galvinised thing, just paint it every few years. gal also makes it harder to modify/repair because you need to remove the coating before welding.

one other thing I forgot...if you have rails or mud guards make sure they are low! so many trailers you can't open the car door once it is on which means you are dukes of hazard through the window all the time.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Will take down a heap of notes and discuss with the local trailer guys, we will get some quotes of course but would be nice to have someone close to do it so there is some form of after sale service incase anything needs doing...

First thing we noticed on the demo trailer was the sides were too high, we used a technical method, i scratched my leg at the bottom of my door height and put it in the trailer found the sides were about 50mm too high so needed modifying!

Good point about keeping the trailer low, i guess we need to assess the tow rig being so high too! Ideally we will drop the tyre size down to help with the SA trip...

I mentioned the over wheel mounting system to the builder BUT now you mention rolling it and ripping wheels off, i might look at the chain link option

Really dont want to go down the cheap trailer path as you mention Duncan, would like to do it right the first time BUT on a budget too if that makes sense, will try buy smart and do it once and do it right.

The cruiser has a lot of storage, in saying that i am not too keen on having over 100L of ethanol in or on the tow car, so will have to assess that too!

[260DET]

Buy my beaut trailer http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430169-fs-new-beavertail-car-trailer-brisbane/

[fatz]

+10 on dont lend it to people

[warps]

Some excellent pointe below - I've added notes from my own experiences in RED

1. galvanised - Nice to have but not essential IMHO. Then again, mine has lived in a garage all its life so corrosion isn't a problem.

2. brand new Light truck tyres (x5) Definitely, although you can safely put a good second hand as a spare, as it will most likely get used less than 10% of the time. However, LT tyres are cheap and excellent load rating. 14" much better availability.

3. galvanised

4. eBay winch (bought yearly as Duncan previously mentioned) Tru dat. For $100 you cant go wrong

5. galvanised

6. Number plate on a hinge Definitely - my last one had the number plate ripped off when someone borrowed it and backed it into a grass verge. I mounted it into a stiff rubber hinge that let it move around but always sprung back into the correct position. My current one has the plate protected so not an issue.

7. galvanised

8. dolly wheels under the very back rear corners so instead of scraping or getting the trailer stuck on low driveways it just rolls on the dolly wheels Never had this problem personally, but sounds like a good idea. Skids would also be good - similar to what buses have (protect the trailer but will still gouge the road / driveway)

9. galvanised

10. drop axles Not a fan personally, but have not had the need. I tow a rally car which has penty of clearance. Might be a different story when I start dragging the track car around

11. galvanised

12. LED lights These are good, but bear in mind a lot of modern cars have an indicator on your dash to show that the trailer lights are working correctly (connected to the indicators). As the LED's draw no current, the tow vehicle doesn't sense that the trailer is connected. Not a big deal, but something to be aware of. Otherwise, LED's win in every other way (apart from price, but they're coming down)

13. galvanised

14. make sure the inner guards are covered so rocks don't flick up from the trailer tyres and scratch your doors Never had that problem, despite towing on gravel roads, but then again what's a few more scratches on a gravel rally car? Probably a good idea though.

Couple of other things -

-Jerry can holders are very handy. I have 3 on my trailer

-Tool box - you can store straps, chains and other odds and ends in there. Doesn't need to be big, and security not necessarily an issue if you're not carrying valuables in there.

-Don't bother with a big tyre rack above the bonnet, unless you're expecting to go through 6 or more tyres in a weekend. I have tyre storage on the draw bar (can bolt 4 tyres down low, using a long 12" threaded rod through each pair of tyres). Low profile and doesn't get in the way. The big tyre racks make a great sail, and guarantee you'll hit your head on it every time you want to look under the bonnet of the car on the trailer. I actually do a fair amount of work on the car while it's on the trailer - easy to get under it, and the engine bay is at a good height so you don't have to bend down all the tme.

- Lots of tie downs is a good thing, but once you work out the best position of your car on your trailer, you can get straps made and even a moveable bolt-down wheel chock that helps get the car into the correct position every time.

- Personally I like fold-up ramps because you don't break your back lifting ramps in and out (and less chance of losing one). However, these might not work with a long car, or one with a lot of overhang. My Honda Civic has almost zero overhang at the back, so despite being FWD (and needing to be mounted a bit further back on the trailer) there's alwyas heaps of room to fold up the ramps.

- Tie downs - I use the following type:

It normally takes me about 5 minutes to drive the car onto the trailer and tie it down, but best of all there's no crawling around under it .

[Duncan]

Buy my beaut trailer http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430169-fs-new-beavertail-car-trailer-brisbane/

That is beaut, and a good price.

How do you find the beaver tail, I've never really tried one?