Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hip flexors I don't find too bad as in you can give them a good stretch and they come good, the back I'd be cautious of.

Yeah I'm not sure why my left side is so sore. I assume my technique is still off as I can see I'm rounding my back. I'm going to practise with a rod tonight and make sure it's staying in contact with my head, back and tailbone as I'm pretending to deadlift. Hopefully I can fix the problem.

I'd concur with that, I used to try and use the window and it made me over extend. My session with Matt helped me get the feel for where it should be and how it will feel when the lower back is straight (the upper back can be rounded and lower back still straight, if everything is straight it puts excess stress on the lower back via leverage).

pfft. mirrors.

If this is deadlifts or squats then mirrors shouldn't be used. Looking at them while moving is contrary to what good form looks like for both.

L33SH, you should be ok without checking the back. Deads do work the lower back so occasional soreness is normal. Just check the back mobility for issues.

Edited by rev210

22/07/13

Flat Bench

25kg x 10

30kg x 10

35kg x 10

40kg x 2

42.5kg x 2

45kg x 1

Squats

30kg x 10

35kg x 10

40kg x 10

45kg x 10

45kg x 7

50kg x 2

Close Grip Lat Pulldown

30kg x 10

40kg x 10

40kg x 10

50kg x 10

55kg x 8

60kg x 2

Incline Press

20kg x 10

20kg x 10

25kg x 9

25kg x 9

30kg x 3

30kg x 3

Tricep Pushdown (double pulley)

25kg x 10

30kg x 10

35kg x 10

35kg x 10

37.5kg x 8

40kg x 4

40kg x 3

Captains Chair Leg Raises

10

10

10

10

Captains Chair Knee Raises

30

You put your right foot in, you take your right foot out, you put your right foot in and you shake it all about (you don't have to do this part, Dan).

Captains chair is a static machine where you support yourself in the air by your arms, then raise your legs up in front of you. It's sort of the opposite of a situp. Works hip flexors and abs + bit of hamstring stretch in there too, depending how far you bring the legs up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...