Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm interested because my box seems to be pissing oil out of it but it has a new extension housing seal and only seems to weep from there (Silvia boxes seem to always leak from the extension housing).

I thought maybe I'd over filled it.

I assume it's coming out from underneath the boot around the shifter, the rubber one, not the interior one, and running down the box.

My Diff is fine though and is sealed, I don't recall my 33 having any way to leak from the diff?

Both have a breather port.

Standard Nissan:

The diff has a hose that runs up into the chassis rail near the rear right wheel.

The gearbox has a hose that runs to a hard line high up near the bell housing.

Both just vent out to atmosphere.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm interested because my box seems to be pissing oil out of it but it has a new extension housing seal and only seems to weep from there (Silvia boxes seem to always leak from the extension housing).

I thought maybe I'd over filled it.

I assume it's coming out from underneath the boot around the shifter, the rubber one, not the interior one, and running down the box.

My Diff is fine though and is sealed, I don't recall my 33 having any way to leak from the diff?

I get the same from my Silvia, although mostly used on dirt the g forces aren't as bad so its not so much of a problem. From what i was told its to do with the box not having enough baffling internally and a lot of the oil rushes to the back of the box and ends up being pushed out the shifter.

Really enjoyed reading this thread too, awesome work and impressive times.

Hey mate, will you be driving at NSW Time Attack?

Yep, sure will be.

Just waiting for the entries to open now.

I'm working on a new rear wing setup at the moment, not sure that it will make much difference at Wakefield though, all that is for Eastern Creek later in the year anyway. I have a theory that the 265 AD08R might work better than the 285 AD08R around Winton and Wakefield though.

So before we trek to Wakefield I'll do a Friday test day at Winton to get an idea of the impact of the new rear wing setup and gauge if there is a performance different between 265 and 285 AD08R at Winton that data should translate well to Wakefield. I have a 7kg spring to try in the rear for Winton/Wakefield, currently running a 10kg which works well at Phillip Island/Eastern Creek.

I have spoken to Forced Motorworx about my gearbox woes. It's a pretty cost effective fix to replace the synchro clips, so I'll get the box out over the next couple of weeks and get it down to Forced. Much cheaper than destroying another selector and ko'ing another gearbox, should have done this last year.

I'd like to change up the front splitter for something more sophisticated than the ply I'm currently running as well. But I haven't come up with a better design to get air to the oil cooler without altering the front bar design.

Awesome. Myself and a mate will be competing as well in clubsprint - though much slower then you lol, we are doing it for the experience more so. We will be in a silver 33 and 34.

Sweet! More RB's the better :)

I think both the Power Tune GTR's will be there in Open Class as well. Will be a great weekend for Skylines.

  • Like 1

Sweet! More RB's the better :)

I think both the Power Tune GTR's will be there in Open Class as well. Will be a great weekend for Skylines.

Yea I've heard they will be there, will make my times look even slower! Lol.

Will be good to meet and put a face to name :)

I'll be watching your splitter progress, I'm thinking about V2 myself.

How high does your current design sit off the ground and how are you going loading it onto trailers?

The current design is removable, so we take it on and off each time.

I want to keep it that way as well, just makes it so much easier.

On the k-frame we have bolted some 25mm tube, on the splitter there is 20mm bar that slots in.

There is some 20mm tube at the front of the spliter and on the sides.

It's quite low to the ground, unsure of height.

Yea I've heard they will be there, will make my times look even slower! Lol.

Will be good to meet and put a face to name :)

I'm talking Tony with Little Red into coming as well. So there will be a couple of Vic 33's invading.

I might have to redesign mine.

Yours must be lower if it clears the swaybar also.

I had issues with mine attaching to the cross member after upgrading to the bigger swaybar. Bar pushed the splitter down and bent brackets (stayed attached though).

I might have to redesign mine.

Yours must be lower if it clears the swaybar also.

I had issues with mine attaching to the cross member after upgrading to the bigger swaybar. Bar pushed the splitter down and bent brackets (stayed attached though).

Yeh it's below that. It's as high as I can get it using the k-frame mounting method.

I have a tilt trailer, but would need a fancy hydrolic thing if any kind of splitter was to be fixed mounted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe will give me my power goals and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
    • It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 
    • Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...