Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Power doesn't seem to over the top

which makes me wonder why others with similar tyres dont have this much of an issue.

makes me wonder about the things I suggested, but also the engine set-up and where peak boost/torque is at. (stock cams, unlike other modified cars so peak figures arent pushed further back into the rev range. ie too much down low, potentially?)

which makes me wonder why others with similar tyres dont have this much of an issue.

makes me wonder about the things I suggested, but also the engine set-up and where peak boost/torque is at. (stock cams, unlike other modified cars so peak figures arent pushed further back into the rev range. ie too much down low, potentially?)

On the AD08 there is a fine ballance of where you want the torque to come on. As the tyre doesn't like shock loading.

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 16 July 2016 at 10:32 PM, AMR33 said:

What's happening with this?

Making some changes so that it can be log booked under 3D sports sedans.

- removing the ignition barrel (steering lock)

- wire in push button start

- remote battery isolator

- improve the cooling (oil and water)

image.jpeg

  • Like 2
8 hours ago, fatz said:

Have not red the rules but I am impressed with what you can do in this clubs print class 

great read as well

It's you to be good to put some sticky tyres in and see how it goes.

Hey, how did you fit 10" wheels under the guard if you don't mind? Did you have to limit the amount of steering lock so that the wheel wouldn't hit the control arm? It doesn't seem to poke out of the guards at all.

Edited by TyresBro
On 8 August 2016 at 3:19 AM, TyresBro said:

Hey, how did you fit 10" wheels under the guard if you don't mind? Did you have to limit the amount of steering lock so that the wheel wouldn't hit the control arm? It doesn't seem to poke out of the guards at all.

It's a 10 + 38 with a 15mm spacer. The tyre gets close to the body and the arm but doesn't touch.

The guards front and rear are rolled flat.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
On 17/07/2013 at 8:25 AM, ssxRicho said:

front castor -7 deg

front camber -3 deg

front tow +0.8mm (ea)

rear camber -1.7 deg

rear tow -0.5 (ea)

The camber settings change a little as we lift the front and rear regularly to find balance for the conditions. This also changes the tow slightly, though not much with the R33 arms.

I haven't got any adjustable arms on the rear, so the standard camber bolts are pushed all the way to max positive.

Wheel alignment settings go together with the spring choice, sway-bar setup, rake etc.

So from what I can see you just have Cusco upper adjustable arms and running -3 degree camber... Anything I've missed? How do the front tyre shoulders fair at -3?

 

On 25/09/2016 at 1:13 PM, Tangles01 said:

So from what I can see you just have Cusco upper adjustable arms and running -3 degree camber... Anything I've missed? How do the front tyre shoulders fair at -3?

 

They are ok at -3, the outside temps get 10 or so degrees higher than the inside. If you can, run 3.5-4.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...