Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Enough meat in rotors to drill and retap?

There is, the 'tabs' are the same size as the ksport. The rotor is tough as nails though!

Was going to be bit of a risk getting them drilled.

So I hunted around and hopefully when I get home tonight the 8mm rotors are there waiting for me! :unsure:

All the best with WTAC mate.

One question, what do you by way of controlling oil surge? Do you have a sump baffle or restrictor etc?

Cheers

Amir

No baffling. Oil cooler plus long lines and 5L of oil.

No restrictor, long lines run from the cam covers to the catch can, then to atmosphere. The can ends up with 20-30ml after a day on the track.

Rev limit is set just over 8k, though the shift light is set at 7k. I only hold to 8k if it means less gear changes.

hey mate love reading about this car! hopefully get mine to yours soon!

What mirrors / where did you get them from? Price?

Also what spoiler and how wide is it?

cheers mate!

I'm not sure what the total width is, 1610mm maybe? It fits flush with the body, so isn't extremely wide.

I bought it second hand on the forums. I think it's a PSI parts knock of the BEE*R R#3 GTR wing.

  • Like 2

Is there any risk revving it to 8k on an internally stock engine?

You need to have the valve springs and retainers done etc to sustain the higher revs... Its not ideal but its not as if you are cruising down the freeway on 8k :P

You need to have the valve springs and retainers done etc to sustain the higher revs... Its not ideal but its not as if you are cruising down the freeway on 8k :P

my boost bleeds down to 15-16 by 8k. im sure if youre pushing 20psi the valves will start to float. im on the stock springs.

tao runs tomei springs in his 33.

im shifting around 7800 most of the time. it runs the limiter at wakefield and winton a couple of times a lap. it blows a little into the catch can, 20ml maybe.

I'd also like to know that, especially after reading the BC thread.

Amir

It was great having the ability to adjust the rebound.

Having only put them in for the event we are still learning how they react.

Don't have a bad thing to say about them.

Turn off the anti shake crap in YouTube that gives it the wobbles and makes it look like the Time Space continuum is bending around you.

lol, it's turned off. The arm on the camera mount is doing that (I think).

16s in, down the straight, that's the mount?

That's trippy.

It must be just at the right frequency to trip the camera out.

Any more work on the car Richo? What are the plans for 2015?

Play with the aero a bit, more power maybe. Not sure yet.

Still running a standard rear end, none of the arms are after-market. Might look at those.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...