Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This might be a stupid thread to start but im trying to change the spark plugs on my rb25 and there is just too much stuff im seeing that I have to take off. Just want to know if anybody has any tips when woriing on these motors. Or if there is an easy way to change spark plugs. Please keep sarcasm to a minimum please :P

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428536-changing-spark-plugs-rb25neo/
Share on other sites

It's a prick on a 34 GTT too. More so than the 33 and Stag.

Frustration saw me flex the cover plate back over until it broke in 2. :angry:

Easier to remove in 2 pieces and get to the plugs if you loose the patience to remove all the other stuff.

Now I regret it :/

So easy on the R32 GTR. But that's about the only thing that is......

Edited by Sinista32

The Cam Breather fitting is the biggest bitch as it gets in the way of the Valley cover removal process. (different on 33)

Put a decent lever inside it and gently turn it 90 degrees, makes things alot easier... :thumbsup:

This is a 33 I think. (Google Image)

post-78856-0-36071200-1373686466_thumb.jpg Circled in RED.

On a 34 the metal fitting is turned inwards and the spout gets in the way.

Turn it like the 33 for easier access, twist it back when you're done.

It's quite easy and straight forward. Remove all the things that are in the way and put them back the same way you took them out but in reverse. NA motors are more painful to change than DETs

The twin intake thing would make it a massive pain in the ass. Although, you sorta deserve it for buying an NA.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...