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Well it looks like its time to replace my diff(380,000km). Being a viscous unit standard it is my understanding that reshimming/rebuilding is a bandage for a bullet wound, rather than spend the 600odd getting it done better to save and buy a new diff. What other option do I have??

This is where my problem lies - I want it to be nice on the street.....I've read and searched the forums and it seems as though the general consensus is to buy a 1.5way diff fit it to your car and learn to deal with the sounds and chatter at low speeds etc. My car is not a daily driver anymore, usually take it out a couple of times a week for an hour or so of driving but that's about it. I have no intention of drifting it, perhaps some circuit work in the future, but more than likely will be 90% street driven.

I have no idea about diff's really apart from the research I have done on google, sau and magazine articles. I am still a little confused when people say they lock under deceleration and can spear you off in the wet......surely this is a rare occurance unless you are pushing the car. Most of my driving is 'nana' spec, so will installing a 1.5way inhibit my driving pleasure. After the suspension upgrade http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426868-suspension-part-replacement/ the car is nice to drive, has nice power and handles well now.

A little off topic but I 'tolerated' shitty stiff g4 coilovers for four years till I got aussie spec teins last year and the car has been so much better to drive since and vowed not to 'just learn to live with it' when upgrading anything else now. The diff might be different though as I have to replace it really and with no other option I may have to deal with the driveability of a 1.5way.

The posts I've read make no mention of what clutches people have when putting a 1.5way/2way diff in their cars. I have a os giken twin plate, will this and a 1.5 way diff make it unbearable to drive on street??

The last question may sound stupid so please keep the sarcasm level low, but my vin plate says rc43 - so 4.3 diff ratio?? The nismo gt pro has 4.3 ratio, not sure about kaaz or cusco. Will changing the ratio change my speedo - the sensor is on the gearbox so I'm guessing it wont - again I got no idea really so low volume sarcasm please if you feel the need to leave smart arse remarks. I should have done mechanical engineering at uni instead of civil I guess lol.

My car has 239rwkw, rb25 and box, 3071r, pfc, injectors etc and the os twinplate. When I do buy a new diff, a local diff guy will be installing it - I wouldn't know how to set the backlash correctly.

Cheers guys

Mick

Edited by mii11x
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First up, when you buy a mech diff centre, you only get the centre. Not the CW&P gear set. So you would transfer your 4.3 gears over to the new centre.

Second, if you don't want to live with any mech diff shenanigans, then buy a 1-way centre. These only provide LSD action under drive, so when you're off throttle (ie in carparks and so) as you coast or decelerate there is no LSD effect, so no chatter or jumping about. Not as good as a more thorough 1.5 or 2 way, but also less understeer.

If it were me, when faced with this decision, I would do what I did, which was to find a helical centre and put that in instead. Ended up costing me an arm and a leg, but helical diffs are really nice things to have under a car. They do have one or two small issues. if you get one wheel off the ground then they go open - you have no drive. This may get in the way of good times on the track, and it can be hell to get into some driveways. But beyond that, much nicer to drive on.

gtsboy, yeah ive seen your posts in many threads......out of interest how much is an arm and a leg?? The home driveway is fine, but there are a couple of driveways I use that it does kick up the rear wheel(less now that the teins are in), having said that I guess I could take them at a more perpendicular angle due to minimal traffic.

ah ok so keep my gears.......how durable are the gears? 380000km old, car never thrashed really, im the only owner since japland, hard to tell since I havnt ripped the diff out but do they ever need replacing?? if so are they hard to get new?? 2nd hand would be easy.

its a tuff decision as some people say mech diffs are clunky, chirp wheels etc in carparks and others say they are great and have no issues.....perhaps the detrimental remarks come from not having them setup correctly and just deal/tolerate it.

ill have to search kaaz and cusco as im pretty sure I havnt noticed 1 way nismo

The whole job probably ended up costing close to a grand. I ended up buying two diffs. One was S15, but in an S14 housing. That gave me the helical centre. The other was R34 with a viscous centre. That gave me the 4.11 gears I wanted. Because the helical diffs don't share half shafts with the viscous diffs, I had to use the 3x2 bolt half shafts that came with the helical. That meant I had to buy some S14 driveshafts. And it cost me about $400 to get my local diff/trans specialist to assemble it and get the setup right, including some new seals, crush spacers and so on.

so is that 1400 all up then or the thou includes the diff guy??

so I could buy an s15 diff and half shafts and drive shafts.......sounds like a whole lot of work, but sounds like your happy with the result. don't suppose you know if s15 driveshafts bolt to r32gtst hubs.

either way, I would look at buying what I need, be it a new mech diff or helical solution, and take it to a local diff guy to set up and install

Closer to $1k than $1.4k.

I don't know for sure, but I suspect that S15s use the same 5 bolt half shafts as the R chassis cars**. If that's the case I just ended up with a serve of bad luck buying an S15 centre that someone had used in an older S chassis car.

** A quick google image search would suggest however that they still use the 3x2 6 bolt flange same as the older S chassis cars. Sucko!

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