Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I know all you guys usually remove your HICAS warning light from your cluster but that involves more effort.

I have another quicker solution, and is 100% proven.

On the HICAS ECU, there's a specific PIN for the dash warning light. All you need to do is snip it, easy as!

How it connects up:

84574d1362540516-japanese-masterpiece-ni

ECU Schematics:

84396d1362399054-japanese-masterpiece-ni

So all you need to do it go cut PIN 15 on the HICAS ECU (larger one in the boot). PIN 15 is a GREEN WIRE with a WHITE STRIPE. You can locate it look at the backside of the harness, it's on the bottom row, 3rd pin from all the larger 4 wires.

Bye bye HICAS light :)

P.S. thanks http://www.theautomotiveindia.com for the images.

All I did was completely unplug the smaller of the 2 plugs on the (R32) HICAS control unit. HICAS de-activated. No dash light (obviously enough).

I haven't looked at an R33 HICAS CU to see if the plugs are the same as R32. From the diagram above it looks like they're not.

Anyway, make sure you know what model car you're playing with is all I'm saying.

OH FEK... forgot to add..

The above diagram is for a R34 GT-t HICAS ECU, R33 GTS-t uses the same layout with an additional PIN 13.

Either way, PIN 15 is of interest, which is GREEN with a WHITE STRIPE for both models

  • Like 2

Noticed HICAS light was on getting it back after my suspension was checked out.....

I have a HICAS lock out bar & also an aftermarket Momo steering wheel. I know these cam cause the light to come up on my dash but it was never on when I got the car.

Power steering fluid is fine.

That's all I have checked.. I know this will obviously stop the light coming on, but why did it come on in the first place?

93 r32 gtst type m

Edited by Zrobe

That's easy. I'm willing to bet that the boss kit for your steering wheel does not have a drive for the steering angle sensor. Guaranteed to lead to HICAS fault. If you didn't have a lock bar in, it would also lead to your car driving down the road sideways.

That's easy. I'm willing to bet that the boss kit for your steering wheel does not have a drive for the steering angle sensor. Guaranteed to lead to HICAS fault. If you didn't have a lock bar in, it would also lead to your car driving down the road sideways.

Sorry, that still left me with quite a dull look on my face..

So I need to get a steering angle sensor?

I don't even know what a boss kit is... Is that like the extension for the column?

Sorry guys, I'm an idiot :/

Edited by Zrobe

the thing that mounts your aftermarket steering wheel to your steering column, that's called a boss kit..

R32s have this gay sensor which needs to be rotated with the wheel or the HICAS ECU has a fit like Justin Bieber

  • Like 2

Yeah. Hubs to suit R32 have a pin/dowel thingo that sticks into the angle sensor and drives it around so the HCU knows what you're doing with the wheel. I was under the assumption that all the HICAS cars had to have it - assuming that the steering angle sensor was in the same place for all cars. It's the most obvious place to put it.

Sweet, thanks for clearing that up guys. I like pictures.

So solution is this adapter or disabling the light altogether.

I think you need those to work for your atessa system to work properly too. Don't quote me though could be wrong

Sweet, thanks for clearing that up guys. I like pictures.

So solution is this adapter or disabling the light altogether.

I think with r32s they require the correct boss kit or the steering wheel will be dead heavy.

No. When I got my car in from Japan it had the same wheel and boss on it that is there now. But it would do the strange "crank-on-30°-of-steering-angle-after-10-minutes-of-driving-once-you-went-over-80km/h" thing that they do when they don't have the steering angle sensor. My boss doesn't have it. So after fiddling about a bit I worked out my fix, which was to disconnect the smaller of the two plugs from the HICAS CU. Worked a treat. My power steering has otherwise always been completely normal.

Even now, 13 years later, with the whole HICAS gear ripped out of the car (including the rear subframe) I still have the HICAS CU under the parcel shelf, still plugged in to the larger of the two plugs.

Bit of a tangent, but has anyone experienced the steering wheel "kicking"? As in, the R32 goes from light to heavy steering above a certain speed. Obviously it's malfunctioning and 'kicking in' when I drive around town (annoying and dangerous). My car always has this issue. Disconnecting the smaller plug from HICAS computer only lessens the frequency of the 'kick'.

That sounds like you have a problem separate to HICAS as such. If the "weight" of the steering changes, it is possibly because the solenoid on the rack is opening and closing (when it shouldn't). I had it go heavy for a while when my O2 sensor committed suicide and took out the loom. That loom also included the wiring for the power steering. So you can see that there are a few non-obvious ways that this might occur.

Yeah it's so damn annoying :(. Funnily enough, I replaced my 02 sensors with new ones, no difference to steering! Hahaha.

It's definitely electrical. I'm thinking grounding/voltage issue causing solenoid to go spastic. The 4WD relay in the boot clicks as well, lights dim (big current draw). Fricken R32s. With the HICAS computer plugged in, it's horrible to drive.

  • 2 weeks later...

I reckon the easiest way is to pop the pin from the relevant wire out of the plug and elec tape it to the loom . It doesn't take much longer and is reversible , not that you'd want to but why butcher something if doing it this way is so easy ?

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...