Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tim, the big difference btw Adrian (2rismo) and myself is that Adrian can drive!

Yeah I know Adrian, woeful indeed mate. I'll give your 6krpm tip a go. I usually drop it at ~3-4k. It seems like I'll never crack the 2.0 mark let alone a 1.6, but practice makes perfect :)

I feel for you Matty. Bloody cars hey. Good to hear it's all fixed now. Oh yeah... thanks for making me feel much better about my 60's on 275/40/17 Nittos, with a 2.8 you make Chapman's 60's look good :)

Thanks Mark, and double thanks for the photo mate! You bloody ripper, photographic evidence that I CAN actually smoke 'em up!!!

Thanks for the pics Andy.

You'll get there matt, the mph indicates low 11's once you get it to hook up properly.All in time you'll pull the times it's capable of.

Best time and new P.b was 11.3 @ 121mph, i know it's not a Skyline, but it's RB powered!!

Practice makes perfect as they say!!

Adam_PSI-VL

Also, the margin between spinning off the line too much and bogging gets a lot closer with Nittos. I tend to over cook them if I leave the line with too many revs and run 1.8 60's.

They REALLY REALLY need a good cooking though dude. Badly.

Adrian

damm, intercooler pipe:(   fixed now and ready for the next wednesday night meeting. my best (if you can call it that) time for the day was 14.020  at 103.65mph. 60ft was a poor 2.8. have to get used to the nittos

Well done Matt and Chapman

Look at it this way Matt, they say every tenth on your 60' is worth two tenths at the other end, so even with a 2.2 60' you're looking at 12's.

Must find the positive!

I didn't see Keir out there Tim. I know he ran on the 30th of May (practice day). I dunno what times he got though?

The GT Autosound S15 ran on the 30th too. It went 9.3 @ mid 140's! I think Martin said the engine when bang again though ;)

Carol (from fullboost.com.au) took this awesome launch pic of the GT AS S15 -

air_04_05_025b.jpg

Thats farking nuts!

It's a bloody awesome shot hey Steve! It certainly hauls ass of the line. They were running a 150 shot of gas on it.

I just remembered! Martin was telling me that they had a bloody injector clip come off. This caused that cylinder to run lean (as expected with no power to the injector!) and it popped ;) The lack of fuel when running nitrous is a surefire piston killer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...