Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Reply from Ebay seller:

10+ for $75 each

20+ for $70 each
30+ for $65 each
That price includes postage to one address only. Someone would have to repackage / post to everyone else, so maybe an extra $3-$4e.
Scotty, see how you go with your hunt in China. I'll make some enquiries as well. I think a better price is out there.
Edited by Commsman

A better price is definitely out there, just not sure on minimum quantities and quality yet. ;)

Correct Scotty.

We can do better than that.

Lets test them first and make sure they last longer than 3 months. Delivery is expected Monday.

IMO, the best way is to bulk buy from China as prices are so cheap. You don't worry about warranty, just carry a spare. Some I saw "guarantee" theirs for 12 months or 50,000km, lol. But why would you send it back when they cost so little? I'd look at it as disposable like an air filter, lol.

Anyway Scotty & ChrisB look like that's what they're doing, so hold tight till they report back success :)

At last my Stag is back on the road and I kid you not it feels a lot more responsive and grunty then before???.

What I ended up doing is installed a very good second hand one that came of 2003 rs250 from wrecker.

I placed and then cancelled at last minute order from Nissan @$318 for the sensor where second hand set me back $150 after negotiating.

So now who knows how long will this last? and yes from me for couple of sensors for glovebox stock once we decide with which one to get.

Thanks again everyne for input.

Dave

PS. The reason I was going to get one from nissan and not ebay is delivery next day ex Melbourne,

I have spoken to a mate today after telling him to return the faulty Nissan AFM's. He returned two with receipts and was told unless he told them the ODO k's at purchase, they weren't covered with their 12 month 20,000 k warranty. It would need to be installed by a licenced mechanic too, even better the Nissan service centre, that way they can sting you $200 more to clear the code. Great service by Nissan...

Anyway, nothing will make me happier than to put a stop to their thieving ways by undercutting their best seller. ;)

  • Like 1

Has anyone installed experimented with fitting new ecu to eleminate the need for air flow sensor or that is not possible with m35 like with skylines?

How deep are your pockets?

Anything is possible if you're prepared to spend enough cash.

I have spoken to a mate today after telling him to return the faulty Nissan AFM's. He returned two with receipts and was told unless he told them the ODO k's at purchase, they weren't covered with their 12 month 20,000 k warranty. It would need to be installed by a licenced mechanic too, even better the Nissan service centre, that way they can sting you $200 more to clear the code. Great service by Nissan...

Your mate is ignorant of his rights if he believes what Nissan is telling him.

Your mate is ignorant of his rights if he believes what Nissan is telling him.

Considering he is the Nissan service mech at the dealership in question I assume he doesn't want to make too many waves. He is definitely ready to sell the car though, as the new afm he bought today lasted 20 minutes.

Has anyone installed experimented with fitting new ecu to eleminate the need for air flow sensor or that is not possible with m35 like with skylines?

I am running with a blown AFM at the moment, as I lent it to another owner while he got a replacement. My Fcon Vpro runs off the HKS map sensor so the afm isn't required, but the engine light pops up still. I want a reliable solution for myself too.

Scotty, why don't you get a good electrician to tear one down and see what exactly fails. My old uprev one was a remanufactured OEM. I don't know if the s1 are as easy to get apart, but might be worth a go to see if you can learn to repair.

Sorry, I don't understand the relevance of this. I have a very basic understanding of circuit boards and electrics!

Care to explain?

The board is tiny; like 10mm square.

Any one fixing that is gonna have exceptionally good skills and bloody good eyes.

^ yeah, what Dale said.

That pic was taken from a manufacturers' website & isn't neccesarily what ours looks like; it's a representation only. In any case, I don't think many people have the tools & skills to fault find & repair SMD circuits. 'Through-hole' circuit boards & components are the sort most lay-people work on (think Jaycar kits), but those would make our AFM 5 times as big.

Sorry, I don't understand the relevance of this. I have a very basic understanding of everything!

Care to explain?

I did electronic repair to component level for years, they are not repairable.

The AFM that lasted 20 minutes was from Nissan, 21A P/N. He has since modified an N15 Pulsar 4 pin AFM (no intake temp sensor) and soldered the thermistor directly to the loom, then stuck it into the airbox. Works great and should last.

You'll be right mate. Late comers get all the benefit of others' experience.

Even though some have had problems with (multiple) AFMs, many have had none. Plus any day now I'm sure there will be a cheap solution if you do have issues.

Post up some pics when you get your new car :thumbsup:

Edited by Commsman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...