Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just having a bit of a high fuel pressure problem after installing my new Walbro 460lph fuel pump, was hoping someone might be able to think of something I have done wrong here.

So to give you all the information, I have just replaced my old Walbro GSS-342 with a brand new genuine Walbro F90000262. Straight swap over really, just removed the old pump and installed the new one, had to modify the cradle a tiny bit to fit obviously, but nothing drastic, very simple stuff. The only thing I did differently was instead of using the stock wiring harness, I ran wires from the pump directly through the lid using Superben's idea:

post-107339-0-16369000-1373095582_thumb.

Then from there to the relay and earth point, all as per normal. I otherwise haven't touched anything, didn't touch the fuel pressure regulator or anything in the engine bay from when the car was last running. I am using a Sard FPR as well.

After finishing everything off, I primed the pump to check it was working and it seemed to be, got this:

998031_10151473575522541_1255224751_n.jp

Seemed all good, so I primed it a couple more times for good measure, checked the pressure was still at 43psi, and then started the engine. Everything sounded fine, didn't suspect any issues until I looked at the gauge:

1014438_10151473575397541_77391480_n.jpg

This is just at idle, no throttle being applied. I checked everything over again, but for the life of me I can't figure out what I may have done to cause the fuel pressure to go out? Only thing I can think of is maybe having the lid/hoses off for a couple of days may have let air/something else in to upset the regulator? OR, perhaps there was an issue with my old fuel pump? I wouldn't have suspected so, it never surged or gave any trouble. Tuners never mentioned the car starving of fuel at all.

Any ideas? I would simply adjust the regulator again, but I'd like to know why the pressure has jumped up in the first place...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428855-fuel-pressure-too-high/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are the higher rated sard Type-R fuel regs but I couldn't see that being a problem at idle. The FPR doesn't actually feed any fuel back to the return it only really comes in play under boost as far as I understand. Really got me stumped trying to work out whats going on. When you prime the car does the pressure go to the correct 43 psi again now or does it jump the higher pressure?

Return line probably isnt big enough

Yeh? Standard return line... Surely not everyone using this pump has upgraded fuel lines?

There are the higher rated sard Type-R fuel regs but I couldn't see that being a problem at idle. The FPR doesn't actually feed any fuel back to the return it only really comes in play under boost as far as I understand. Really got me stumped trying to work out whats going on. When you prime the car does the pressure go to the correct 43 psi again now or does it jump the higher pressure?

Nah when priming it always goes to 43psi. It's only when the engine is running that it goes to 60psi.

Ah disregard my post I just read a little more to get a better understanding (haven't mucked around with aftermarket fuel regs yet) I'd have to agree that increasing the fuel return is likely cause couldn't be much else at idle coming into play

Do you have some spare fuel line lying around that you can run from the FPR outlet to a large container/bucket, then start the car and see if theres a different in fuel pressure. It's not the safest way to do it but will give you an answer as to wether it is the FPR or return line that is causing the issue.

Obviously be careful if you decide to do this because of fuel vapours and stuff, probably best to do it outside :)

But yeah if you use the largest size fuel line that will fit on the Reg then you should have no restriction there. I can't say I've ever heard the return line being a problem, but thats not to say it isnt the problem.

The return bypass hole in the reg is probably only 2mm in size so I don't think the return line size will matter much. Are you sure the reg is genuine? I assume all was well with it before the pump change?

Can you perhaps try fitting another reg? I run the relatively cheap SX reg with twin Walbros on e85, no issues here.

Unfortunately I don't have another reg I can try, or any fuel hose :/

I am pretty sure the reg is genuine, I bought it from a seller on here... Hmm, this is a bit trickier than I thought it would be :(

What voltage is present at the pump now, as apposed to before? Is the FPR adjustable?

Was 14v, haven't actually checked this time. I'll have to borrow a multimeter. The FPR is adjustable yeh. I was going to try to adjust the pressure, I just don't want to cover up any problems by doing so. It was all working fine with the old pump, so just want to be sure everything is ok.

I get around 62psi pressure before it reaches the fuel reg so it sounds like maybe the reg isnt doing its job and is just running full pressure straight as it comes out of the pump.

what does that mean? The reg creates pressure in the system before it, all the way back to the pump.

what injectors? i would not be too concerned unless its bouncing, its not uncommon to to run 60-80 base pressures depending on target boost and pump capabilities. ID recommend a base of 60-100psi depending on application. I generally run 60psi on bigger injectors ie 1000 and 2000cc.

Basically keep TOTAL pressure under the injectors limits.

ID725 - 8.5 bar, 123.5 psi.
ID850 - 7.0 bar, 101.5 psi.
ID1000 - 7.0 bar, 101.5 psi.
ID2000 - 9.0 bar, 130.5 psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...