Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah well I want 400hp with a safe tune but didnt get anywhere near that so il put injectors and afm and take it to a different tuner

Probably also replace that turbo, cos that's gonna be utter junk at 400rwhp, IF it gets there. 5500rpm full boost lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428864-330rwhp/page/2/#findComment-6934757
Share on other sites

Yes this ^ ^ ^ ^

I make the same power you have at the moment with full boost of 18psi around 3200rpm, Just to show you how much of a mismatched combo that turbo is for the power you want.

Go look in the hypergear thread or the RB25 turbo results thread to find a better turbo more suited to the power you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428864-330rwhp/page/2/#findComment-6934768
Share on other sites

Bleh, I'm always hijacking threads :/

RB20DET

Stock injectors + T04e (yes laggy already I know)

171kw.. Also bad tuner.

I have 550cc injectors about to go in + better tune, will I see any benefit?

P.S.

Still saving for an SS1.5 from hypergear.

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428864-330rwhp/page/2/#findComment-6934804
Share on other sites

Bleh, I'm always hijacking threads :/

RB20DET

Stock injectors + T04e (yes laggy already I know)

171kw.. Also bad tuner.

I have 550cc injectors about to go in + better tune, will I see any benefit?

P.S.

Still saving for an SS1.5 from hypergear.

Save your money and buy the Hypergear turbo, then retune.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428864-330rwhp/page/2/#findComment-6934810
Share on other sites

Regardless of which turbo you use to reach your power goal, you will need to replace your injectors and AFM anyway, so I would buy them first before considering selling and replacing your turbo.

Do that first and see whether you can get the power and response your after by increasing the boost pressure also.

At 16psi for a big turbo, you won't be maximising it's abilities. I'd say at a minimum, boost it up. Your low boost setting say 16psi and a highboost setting of 20.

As hypergear has mentioned, you'll be making a lot of power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428864-330rwhp/page/2/#findComment-6936846
Share on other sites

Courto, it may be possible your tuner is quite aware your injectors and AFM are limiting factors to the power you require. Knowing you have limited experience he just pegged the power at 330hp so you wouldn't blame him for the very quick death your car would have otherwise. Just for fun you could get 1,000 injectors, AFM & remove any restrictions in the exhaust, then go for it.

If the turbo is crap you will soon find out (with a reputable tuner) so just flog it off to the bin and get a 3076 and enjoy. By the way, if your tuner cannot explain to you in plain English why your combination doesn't perform it is probably because, like most mechanics, that he failed English at school and quite possibly every other subject. Find a tuner who actually enjoys educating people and knows the value of good service regardless of your own skill level.

That said, CRAP, that's a big turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428864-330rwhp/page/2/#findComment-6937078
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...