Buying An R32 Gt-R

[Jonah12]

Sorry if this isn't the right place to post this. Hi guys. I'm on my red p's and would like to buy an R32 GT-R as soon as I'm on my full license. I know it's far away, but I just love the car so much.

Basically I need some figures on how much I would need on some things related to R32 GT-Rs.

My plan is to buy a stock GT-R, within the 50-80k range for about 20-24K. A nice example: http://www.edwardlees.com.au/stock/1993-nissan-skyline-gt-r-ii-3483.htm I would slap on some volkte 37's as they look amazing on r32's. Anyhow, the plan is on inspection of the car bring out a mechanic I know to basically inspect the car, make sure everything's fine. Once I have the car, I will take it for a dyno test and tune up, to try bring it back to how it was. I don't think removing the boost restrictor is worth it on stock turbos as I've read too many horror stories. Anyways it will be my daily driver till it gives up. Then I'm guessing I'd need 12-15k for a whole rebuild with forged internals and then an extra 4-5k to take the car to 400hp-ish. That's where I'd like it to sit, until I get bored.

Do you guys think this seems feasible and my figures are correct?

I'd love the car to look something like these

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lwvtge6cXT1r8tof9o1_500.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2755/4108608287_af75e61b2d_o.jpg

http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn448/owgasmic/IMG_5730-1-11-11.jpg

Edited July 20, 2013 by Jonah12

[Sinista32]

Good - looks, sounds, price from a computer screen

Check KM's - expect not legit.

They are nearly always wound back. Ask for all paper work, auction papers, manuals, service records.

Plenum painted/flaking indicates greater KM's. It has N1 Headlights - not stock, OEM gear nob replaced with a crappy one, dash has bubble which I wouldn't think you would find in such a low KM vehicle.

No OEM matts - also indicates a lot of use and removed. (or sold separately)

Checks - Chassis, compression test results and leak down. Suspension, steering components, paint/rust and oil if your keen.

Being a newbie If your seriously keen on this pay $330 and have a pro check it over first. (State roads inspection report)

Edit: It has R34 Vspec aluminium pedals.

It could be this has one has been "cleaned up" and well detailed. Don't be fooled.

Edited July 20, 2013 by Sinista32

[NISSAN GTR]

Yes i agree with sinista32 , Plenum paint has cracked from excessive heat , any car with that sort of kms should have original pedals , should look new still , that r32 has done a heap of kms , it took me several years to find mine and made several flights around Australia , at the end of the day dont rush it . GL

[Jonah12]

I know buying a legitimate skyline is a very hard thing to do, you can gurantee that nearly all have been thrashed. I have got plenty of time to look and in no rush . Thanks for the help

[BuuBox]

It's probably not a bad car, but it sure doesn't look like an "immaculate" 53,000km example from the pictures...

Edited July 20, 2013 by BuuBox

[TezGT-R]

Edward Lees, lots of horror stories. I would steer clear.

Edited July 20, 2013 by TezGT-R

[MrStabby]

Google Edward Lees to get an impression of reputation. Don't buy without getting a full inspection from good shop like Tunehouse, CRD, etc.

[luke gtr]

Yes i agree with sinista32 , Plenum paint has cracked from excessive heat , any car with that sort of kms should have original pedals , should look new still , that r32 has done a heap of kms , it took me several years to find mine and made several flights around Australia , at the end of the day dont rush it . GL

hell, mine has original pedal pads, and I reckon it has close to 200k on it.

[Truffles]

hell, mine has original pedal pads, and I reckon it has close to 200k on it.

This.

I don't think I've ever seen a stock plenum with so much of the paint having flaked off.

Mine was imported into Australia in 2009 with 76,000km on it. I have the original import papers, but even the 76,000km from Japan is probably doctored.

If it's a GENUINE 50-80k km example (legitimate history and documentation provided), I still think you'd be flat strapped getting one for sub 24k. I mean the whole purpose of a car is to be DRIVEN. A 50,000km GTR is less than 2500km a year from new - that's less than 50km a week every week since new. While this is possible and there are some examples like this it's not going to be every second vehicle brought into Australia, like some importers would have you believe. In the case of performance cars that are 20+ years old, most having been in the country for several years; a decent AUSTRALIAN history, receipts and proof it's been looked after genuinely since it came to our shores.

Also, as mentioned - Stay well clear of Edward Lee's...How many "genuine 50,000km" vehicles do you think they can actually acquire?

Edited July 20, 2013 by Truffles

[Jonah12]

This.

I don't think I've ever seen a stock plenum with so much of the paint having flaked off.

Mine was imported into Australia in 2009 with 76,000km on it. I have the original import papers, but even the 76,000km from Japan is probably doctored.

If it's a GENUINE 50-80k km example (legitimate history and documentation provided), I still think you'd be flat strapped getting one for sub 24k. I mean the whole purpose of a car is to be DRIVEN. A 50,000km GTR is less than 2500km a year from new - that's less than 50km a week every week since new. While this is possible and there are some examples like this it's not going to be every second vehicle brought into Australia, like some importers would have you believe. In the case of performance cars that are 20+ years old, most having been in the country for several years; a decent AUSTRALIAN history, receipts and proof it's been looked after genuinely since it came to our shores.

Also, as mentioned - Stay well clear of Edward Lee's...How many "genuine 50,000km" vehicles do you think they can actually acquire?

This is why I was thinking then if I have the cash I would buy the car and just do a rebuild straight away with forged internals then continue modification down the line.

[Truffles]

This is why I was thinking then if I have the cash I would buy the car and just do a rebuild straight away with forged internals then continue modification down the line.

Not entirely needed, but if you have the cash to exercise the option then it's certainly up to you. You've noted in your original post that you're aware of the cost to build an rb26, so you won't get that nasty shock.

400hp can be achieved on a stock engine, with the right supporting mods. Mine is making 394hp and has been for the 10,000km since I bought it. Only thing that has gone is the clutch (just last week).

[dodgyimports]

Hi Jonah12,

Some important info for you. According to the link you provided the chassis no. of the car is: BNR32307265

This car was sold at auction on the 4th of April. Here is the auction sheet:

"MINT MINT MINT" indeed...

Grade RA. Take note of the asterisk next to the recorded kilometres also.

For those interested the sold price was 394,000 yen.

Others in this thread were wise to give a warning.

Edited July 20, 2013 by dodgyimports

[Sinista32]

^^^^^

Edited July 20, 2013 by Sinista32

[Jonah12]

Not entirely needed, but if you have the cash to exercise the option then it's certainly up to you. You've noted in your original post that you're aware of the cost to build an rb26, so you won't get that nasty shock.

400hp can be achieved on a stock engine, with the right supporting mods. Mine is making 394hp and has been for the 10,000km since I bought it. Only thing that has gone is the clutch (just last week).

True, that is also another option. 8-10 spent on the build and 5 spent on the motor. Also what is the best sounding exhaust. I think a HKS Titanium exhaust sounds beastly.

Also, if I'm going to stay away from Edward Lee's, where else should I look to get a nice r32 which is actually what is presented without any bullshit. Import it myself?

And thankyou dodgyimports. I can see that the vehicle grade R.A means it was an accident vehicle. No longer going to buy from Edward Lee's...

Edited July 20, 2013 by Jonah12

[Count Grantleyish]

Look locally @ carsales.

Honestly with amount of R32 GTR's in your price bracket, I wouldn't bother importing.

[dodgyimports]

Look locally @ carsales.

You could do that but then again, theres a chance you're buying a car that Ed Lees / other dodgy dealer imported years back which has been similarly mis-treated.

Employing the services of an import broker is not a bad approach if you're prepared to wait for the right car.

[Count Grantleyish]

I'd rather buy one already here than go to import route - I'd hate to wait ages for a car only to have it break on you. You can look at it yourself and test drive them rather than relying on 3rd party doing the work for you, just my opinion.

There's number of good 32r's here with owners pouring cash on them and taking good care of them, just need to look around, you never know what you can stumble across if you look around.

About these importers, it's nothing we can do to stop them from doing it apart from not buying a car from them.

[Sinista32]

Like any grading it is a matter of opinion and can be based on who's paying the Graders wage.

As mentioned many times it's best to have some one on the ground.

I have leveraged the following info of the net.

Japanese Car Auction Grading

The grade is the overall assessment of the car given to it by the Japanese car auction house’s own assessors. The purpose of the grade is to give you a quick idea of the general condition of the car or vehicle. However, it is not enough to base your final bidding decision on: There will be a range of different quality levels within each grade, so a car that is classified as a grade 4 may be almost a grade 4.5 in quality terms, or it may be only just above a grade 3.5. As a buyer, you use the grading to narrow down the vehicles you may want to bid on. Once you have narrowed down the field, this is when the car map and our translation of the auction sheet will help you to make the final decision about whether to go ahead or not.

There are usually two grades: The overall grade based on the exterior and mechanical condition (usually a number), and the interior grade, based on the interior condition (usually a letter - A, B or C). Although different auctions may have slightly different methods of determining each grade, in general they are broadly similar. Let’s look in more detail at the grading below.

Overall Grade
Grade 7, 8, 9 or S is given to a new car that is being sold in an auction, with only delivery mileage.

Grade 6 Similar to the cars above but with a little more than delivery mileage.

Grade 5 to a car with exceptionally low mileage and in mint condition.

Grade 4.5 is in excellent condition, but can also have mileage of up to 100K.

Grade 4 is a good, solid car. Mileage is not an issue (could be low or high).

Grade 3.5 is similar to a grade 4 but may need more paint and panel work. Alternatively, it may have high mileage.

Grade 3 often has either serious paint and panel, or it has had a panel replacement somewhere. Grade 3 cars can also be basically grade 3.5s in terms of condition, but with very high mileage.

Grade 2 is reserved for vehicles in the worst condition. This does not mean that they are write offs, simply that they have experienced deterioration such that they are now in a very poor state. A grade 2 vehicle will often have corrosion, perhaps corrosion holes and other serious issues. If you are looking for “classic” and other older cars or older trucks and buses, you will find a number of them are grade 2.

Grade 1 Can be one of the following
1). After market turbo / engine (some sort of serious modification to the original vehicle)
2). Transmission changed from auto to manual.

Grade A, R, RA are repair history cars. The auctions definition of “repair history” is a car that has had an inside panel repaired in some way. This can range from extremely minor to major.

Grade ??? are ungraded write off cars which may not move at all. Auctions provide no information about these cars on the auction sheets. If the cars are drivable, then there should be no additional transportation costs. However, if the motor does not start or if the car cannot move under its own power for some other reason there may be problems in getting it from the auction to the port, and then from the yard onto the ship. If the engine does not start and is not steerable, transportation and port costs can skyrocket.

Exterior and Interior Grading
Some auctions have a letter, A, B or C to denote the exterior and interior grade separately. These letters can be seen near the overall grading number. A is excellent, B average and C below average.
We will normally not note the exterior grade, as the exterior condition of the car can be ascertained by looking at the car map (see below). For the interior grade, we will normally note this in the translation of the auction sheet if you bid on a car.

Car Map

This is in the bottom right corner of the auction sheet. On the map, the number after the letter denotes the severity of the damage. 1 = light, 2 = moderate, 3 = significant , 4 = major


A Scratch
U Dent
B Dent with scratch
W Wave, or repaired area
S Rust (orange discoloration on the surface)
C Corrosion (rust has progressed so that now the original metal is now flaking away)
P Paint marked
H Paint faded
XX Replaced panel / item
X Item that needs replacing
G Stone chip on glass
Y Crack
E Dimple

In general non-Japanese people tend to find that this grading is stricter than they were expecting. Once you have received a car, and you can compare the actual vehicle with the car map on the auction sheet, you will then be able to have a better idea of how the Japanese used car auction inspector grades different issues. This will help inform your future bidding decisions.
If you are thinking about bidding on a car but are unsure because there are some Japanese notes, you can place a bid just over the start price and request a translation. Once the translation comes back, you can then decide whether to increase your bid to a sensible level, or to cancel the bid based on the translated information you receive. We will not bid live on the car unless we are sure you are happy with the condition of the vehicle you are bidding on.
Please note that, unlike some of our competitors, we do not charge for a translation of the auction sheet. As long as you have placed a bid on the vehicle and just need to know the details in order to make your final decision about whether to proceed or not, we are happy to give you a translation. Our goal is to give you the best information so that you can make a good, informed decision about whether to get the car or not.
Our customer service staff are both fluent in Japanese and English, as well as being experienced in reading these auction inspection reports. Of course, we can provide you with some advice as well, if we think a car is not a good idea to bid on, although the final decision to bid or not bid is up to you.
We give you the best information - you make the decision.

[Sinista32]

Meaning it's had a front end dingle and been Repaired/Replaced. Bonnet, Lights etc...

[Jonah12]

Meaning it's had a front end dingle and been Repaired/Replaced. Bonnet, Lights etc...

Thanks, what website can I use to check the VIN number of these imported cars to see if it has had any trouble while in Japan?