Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas i'm very interested in doing this mod on my car i just dont know enough about

it. :( is there any picture guides on how 2 do it?

i had my mechanic do an aftermarket boost controller on it but i think its stuffed and its spiking and i'm overfueling cause of it.

help please

hey fellas i'm very interested in doing this mod on my car i just dont know enough about

it. :(  is there any picture guides on how 2 do it?

i had my mechanic do an aftermarket boost controller on it but i think its stuffed and its spiking and i'm overfueling cause of it.

help please

get the mechanic to put it back to stock boost control solenoid/setup then just ground the black wire between the solenoid and plug, seriously its that simple (or tell im to do that) ie cut it and attach it to car body - ground

or even grab one of those turbotec boost controllers in forced induction section $22 thing if u want a few more psi

my r33 just used to sit on 5 psi never went any higher so dont know where the 7psi side of things went but did the mod today took all of about 10 mins and now it goes to 8 psi comes on quicker pulls harder than b4 im rapt mid life crisis

Ok this may seem like a stupid statement,(As i dont actually own a skyline yet) but i always thought that if you upgraded ur exhaust, say 3" turbo back, ur boost automatically goes up. In saying this would this mod still work? Please detail ur answer as im new to the turbo/skyline scene....LoL

Cheers

this mod will still work. boost is a resistance to air, take out the resistance aka bigger exhaust and boost will go up a little as there is less resistisance, so it can flow more but the mod will still apply

this mod will still work. boost is a resistance to air, take out the resistance aka bigger exhaust and boost will go up a little as there is less resistisance, so it can flow more but the mod will still apply

wouldnt the wastegate actuator stop it from going over a set psi regardless of the size of the exhaust?

Thats another thing i was thinking but didnt wanna say...

A larger exhaust (more flow) allows the turbo to spin up easier, and as such faster, here in NZ we rip the insides of our cat convertors out also to create less back pressure...

Yes Yes Yes....I realise this BUT will the actuator/ecu/solenoid etc stop it from gaining the 'automatic' boost you get as a result of putting a bigger exhaust????

I realise the effects of a bigger exhaust on a motor/turbo but will it be electronically restricted?????

well, when i first had the rb25det in my R31, i had the stock 1inch exhuast, and it would only make 5psi of boost, when i put on a 3inch turbo back it did the 5psi, then 7psi after 4000rpm but that is all, the actuator will stop anymore boost from being made. I also install one of them $30 boost controllers, its all pretty damn fine now.

I did this mod last night, and bang me dead its awsome!

can anyone tell me what having this loop does(drawn in red)....cuz in my car the solenoid has a loop...the top one doesnt go where its supposed to go....i need an explanation on what this does....esp cuz am a newbie to skylines...he he ;)

post-23830-1130177360.jpg

wouldnt that be done just to plug up the solenoid..?

can anyone tell me what having this loop does(drawn in red)....cuz in my car the solenoid has a loop...the top one doesnt go where its supposed to go....i need an explanation on what this does....esp cuz am a newbie to skylines...he he :D

wouldnt that be done just to plug up the solenoid..?

the bottom one runs to your wastegate actuator, without this you car will probably boost until the fuel defender cuts in

the top one should run to your inlet piping after the air filter, i blocked mine off (top one) but have since unblocked it and it makes no difference

Edited by Keeper

solenoid.jpg

My setup is abit different from everyone else's. Is it still ok to do this mod since the 2nd solenoid nipple is being used?

And if so, which wire goes to ground, white or black?

  • 2 weeks later...

This mod looks great!

Just thought I'd ask if anyone had successfully done this on an R34?

I would guess that it would be almost identical procedure?

I have noticed that on the R34 boost is limited in 1st and 2nd gear, getting the full dose in 3rd through 5th. Would this mod "rectify" this boost cut in lower gears? Thanks guys!

  • 4 weeks later...
Never mind - i've sorted it myself - i've purchased the following:

http://dseau.resultspage.com/search.php?p=...34&site=&w=7701

for anyone that doesn't know anything about electronics you need a SPDT switch which is the following:

SP = Single Polarity - DT = Dual Throw - which pretty much means that if you flick it one way 1 thing turns on - flick it the other way the other thing turns on..

good luck!

Just purchased one of these things and about to give this a shot.

On the back it's got three pins. 1. 2. 3.

is it

1. Wire leading to ECU

2. Wire leading to actuator

3. Wire leading to ground

Have I got it wrong?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...