Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Nice mod, took the car for a test run before the mod and after and can see the difference on the stock meter. Definitely feels like its pulling harder lower down.

This may be a dope question, but would it be beneficial to reset the stock ECU so that it might adapt to this change?

  • 2 weeks later...
Can anyone PLEASE confirm if this works on a S2 Stagea or R34??

So far this question doesn't seem to have been answered anywhere in this thread.

Anyone??

actually to answer my own question, i went ahead and did it anyway.

I have a stock S2 Stagea.

All I did was cut the BLACK wire between the solenoid and the plug and then i connected the solenoid end of the black wire to the chassis.

Then I taped up the plug end of the black wire and also taped up the join on the other wires and the job was done.

And the result? At first I didn't notice any difference but the more I drove it the more I realised that the down-low response was noticably improved.

Top end power is the same, which was to be expected, but what you get is greater throttle response at lower revs. Makes it feel just that little bit quicker off the line :O

Too easy! and I highly recommend it!!

i'll try it on my r34 when i get it back from the panel beaters this weekend.

say, can anyone tell me what this would add to their fuel economy if they were to leave it on this setting all the time? i do about 80% city driving.

i'll try it on my r34 when i get it back from the panel beaters this weekend.

say, can anyone tell me what this would add to their fuel economy if they were to leave it on this setting all the time? i do about 80% city driving.

I used to get ~13-14 L/100km (100% city driving) - will let you know the difference next time I fuel up.

Worked sweet guys... took about 10 minutes to do. Now might be time for me to wire up a switch, but i think i might leave it on like that and see how fuel consumption goes.

At first, i didn't feel it, but then after some testing, my gauge was reading about 7psi before 4500rpm and i found highway driving quite pleasant :) . Great stuff.. thanks for this free mod.

Edited by Howie

There isn't much difference to fuel economy. Remeber, your accelerator pedal can also control the amount of boost. So unless you fang it 24\7, thre wont be much difference. If you do fang it everywhere...the difference is about 30KM's per tank

hey guys

did this over the wkend and definitely saw a change - I usually was getting about 0.45-0.5bar of boost and a higher rev range of 0.6-0.7bar. Well since doing this mod (and it is that easy just do the soldering, neat wiring stuff, and a good earth as mentioned!!) i've noticed a big increase in grunt in early gears - I can now shift off the lights at roundabouts and nip in thru traffic whereas previously the boost wasn't really helping to shift the car off the mark - its not massive but its definitely noticeable. cheers :(

just ordered a pfc off gr33ddy (paul) here on skylinesaustralia so looking forward to getting that :)

Question - this mod sounds great and all in theory, but surely grounding the standard solenoid permenantly means that it would be pulsing 100% of the time that the car is turned on? Including at idle and really low RPM when it doesn't actually need to?

Just a thought anyway...

For those interested - the Jaycar IEBC sounds like a better option in the long run if you're on a budget (like myself).

RaseR:

I think it just keeps the solenoid open permanently. either way you only see 0.7bar of boost on a normal gtst anyhow - by doing this mod you just make it see the extra 0.2bar of boost in the lower rev range which it would see anyhow if you gun the car hard enough in those gears. Its gonna put a little more strain on the stock tubby but they're good for 0.9bar I've read.

MMM:

heres a diagram I did for a mate elsewhere.... lookin at solenoid from front of car just snip the black wire, solder an extra bit to the end of the left half and earth it to a good point on the car - pref as near as possible like beneath a pod filter bracket which is what I did. tape up loose ends and try it out. its just a little wire mate :)

boost_sol_wiring2.jpg

hey anthonymcgrath, that's exactly what I mean. Surely wiring the solenoid so as to be constantly on is not really a good thing, you certainly don't need it to pulse at idle and low rpm which it will do if it's permanently grounded....this would have to wear the solenoid at a far greater rate then something like the Jaycar IEBC......anyway.....

ah reet I see - In all honesty mate I dont know - I've just done it and I'll see how it goes - if the solenoid pops then I'll get a new un hehe :-/

i've just got a new turbo with a busted shaft which I'm gonna turn into a hybrid and I've also ordered a new PFC from gR33ddy for a great price off this very site which I should see next week.

Once all thats in along with other bits (arc intercooler etc..) I should see quite a hike in performance and a single stage of boost anyhow hehe!

I think earlier in the thread ppl mentioned removing the solenoid all together. not sure if anyone went with this route tho.

ant

Edited by anthonymcgrath
  • 2 weeks later...
thanx mate for the info but i want to know if theres still anyway of doing it without cutting/stripping the exsisting wire

That would be the easiest way. Otherwise you would have to take apart the connector and not sure if it will go back together again.

Just buy some stripping wires and strip away (if your not sure. I stripped mine with scissors). It's piss easy. Soldering it on will take about 5 seconds. Cover it in heat shrink or electrical tape and your away.

I put a three way switch on mine....

Dick Smith Switch

Mounted on the dash so I can switch it off when it's raining.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...