HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

[pixel8r]

There isn't much difference to fuel economy. Remeber, your accelerator pedal can also control the amount of boost. So unless you fang it 24\7, thre wont be much difference. If you do fang it everywhere...the difference is about 30KM's per tank

Yeah thats about the result I got. not much diff to fuel economy. Noticeable performance improvement in lower rev range tho!

[mad082]

may i just say that the stock boost is so boring now. i hooked my solenoid back up last night for something to do. after running 11psi, 7psi feels really slow.

Edited July 12, 2006 by mad082

[anthonymcgrath]

hey mad082 have you got uprated turbo or anything else to be running 11psi? (just confirm for me ..that is about 1.1bar of boost right?) how are you upping the boost ..with a boost controller or anything else?

after a while of driving with the boost solenoid earthed permanently (as per tutorial) I generally see about 0.65 to 0.75bar of boost. I've heard stock tubbys are good for a safe 0.9bar so not too worried. Its a shedload quicker off the mark too esp. if I find a good bite point.

..going to collect me car today - had a twin plate OSgiken and lightened flywheel fitted too hurrah! should be funny when I get my hybrid turbo in

[dezz]

hey mad082 have you got uprated turbo or anything else to be running 11psi? (just confirm for me ..that is about 1.1bar of boost right?) how are you upping the boost ..with a boost controller or anything else?

after a while of driving with the boost solenoid earthed permanently (as per tutorial) I generally see about 0.65 to 0.75bar of boost. I've heard stock tubbys are good for a safe 0.9bar so not too worried. Its a shedload quicker off the mark too esp. if I find a good bite point.

..going to collect me car today - had a twin plate OSgiken and lightened flywheel fitted too hurrah! should be funny when I get my hybrid turbo in

1bar is about 14psi mate

[teamplasma]

sorry this is a little of tpic but i'm having issues with my apexi avcr boost controller, a dumb arse workshop cut my vacume lines comming out of the soliniod can't seam to get it right, i need to know what the 2 vacume hose on the pic conect 2, i know one is the actuator, can someone show a pic of the second or explain in detail cheer

thanks 4 the pic anthonymcgrath

[mad082]

hey mad082 have you got uprated turbo or anything else to be running 11psi? (just confirm for me ..that is about 1.1bar of boost right?) how are you upping the boost ..with a boost controller or anything else?

after a while of driving with the boost solenoid earthed permanently (as per tutorial) I generally see about 0.65 to 0.75bar of boost. I've heard stock tubbys are good for a safe 0.9bar so not too worried. Its a shedload quicker off the mark too esp. if I find a good bite point.

i'm using a turbotech boost controller. 11psi is only about 0.75bar (14.5psi = 1 bar). i find it interseting that people get such high readings off the stock solenoid. but then i don't have mine grounded. i have full turbo back exhaust, fmic, pod, and when i went out the other night on it it wasn't going above 8psi. but then i didn't check on my turbo timer to see what it spiked to.

the other vacuum hose goes to the intake. as to why they cut it i have no idea. when i hooked up my boost controller i just kinked the old hose that went to the actuator and let the other hose hooked up and it makes no difference.

[dezz]

my car went to 8psi with a cat back, and 9psi with full 3". sits on 9" and holds all the way (with stock boost stuff - havent put my turbotech on yet)

it might spike to 10ish for a second on a cold night if u plant the foot, but holds at 9 straight after

[mad082]

i wasn't paying much attention to the gauge. i just pulled out of the driveway, dropped it into second gear and loaded it up to see what it went to. i was only doing about 3500rpm when i looked at it, so it hadn't even gone into high boost mode, but back when i first got the car and it was completely stock the gauge would go to 7 all the time, but you could feel the it kick in at 4500rpm.

well actually when i first got the car the stock gauge wasn't working, due to a vacuum hose being unhooked in the engine bay. so the first servo i got to i went hunting in the engine bay and found the hose straight away and hooked it up. then when i got home i hooked up a boost gauge and discovered that it was only going to 5psi. so a day or 2 later i hooked a power wire up to the solendoid to make sure it was switching on when it got power. started to drive to work and it was still only going to 5psi on the gauge. stopped at autobarn on the way to work and when i took off up the road it went to 5psi in first then changed into second it went to 7psi straight away. so it buggers me what happened.

[Munkyb0y]

Will this work?

[Kennedy]

Will this work?

Yes. that will work

[Munkyb0y]

EDIT: WARNING: DO NOT use my method - below.

I tested it and my boost gauge showed 14psi, and climbing.

My foot was only half way down, and revs had only reached about 4500.

Wouldve kept climbing if i didnt back off.

Hope i didnt F*CK anything. Any thoughts on that ?

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strip a wire long enough to feed through the male clip and around into the contact point.

you can feed the wire in thru the back of the clip, exiting as seen in the pics.

clip it back together, ground the new wire , or run it thru a switch first, and the mod is done.

totally reversable, no cutting, and not very detectable if you use a subtle colour like black.

see pics coz my explanation sucks.

Edited July 28, 2006 by Munkyb0y

[anthonymcgrath]

kinda cool I like it! I just ran with snipping the wire - its easily replaceable in the end the infinite boost thing is interesting tho - what on earth happened there then hehe!

[popeye132]

what happened to the pictures? can someone post them up cos i have no idea what or where the so called solenoid is

[anthonymcgrath]

here y'go dude - heres my quick n easy pic:

[MMM]

EDIT: WARNING: DO NOT use my method - below.

I tested it and my boost gauge showed 14psi, and climbing.

My foot was only half way down, and revs had only reached about 4500.

Wouldve kept climbing if i didnt back off.

Hope i didnt F*CK anything. Any thoughts on that ?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

strip a wire long enough to feed through the male clip and around into the contact point.

you can feed the wire in thru the back of the clip, exiting as seen in the pics.

clip it back together, ground the new wire , or run it thru a switch first, and the mod is done.

totally reversable, no cutting, and not very detectable if you use a subtle colour like black.

see pics coz my explanation sucks.

cheers mate thats exactly what i was looking for i didnt want to chop the exsisting wire

[nzm033]

im sort of new to this "boosting" thing...just wanna ask afew questions

if i get a "turbosmart bleed valve" and set it to 10psi and also use the "high boost mode" will i be able to make 10psi before 4500rpm...at lower revs like 2500rpm? will it work? and is it safe for daily driving?

r33 gtst......pod, full zorst, FMIC

thanks

[Kennedy]

If you use a bleed valve then that negates the standard actuator. If you set the bleed valve at 10 then you will have 10 all the way through the rev range. If the bleed valve is already installed than the standard actuator should be disconnected.

10 Psi should be safe for daily driving as long as you have a FMIC. Best to have a dyno run after too ensure fuel pump is up for it (They should be but sometimes they fail). CRD and UAS doing them for around $80.00.

Basically the mod listed here is for peope who want to use the standard actuator to get full boost (7-8Psi) right throughout the rev range.

[ricsvtr]

If you use a bleed valve then that negates the standard actuator. If you set the bleed valve at 10 then you will have 10 all the way through the rev range. If the bleed valve is already installed than the standard actuator should be disconnected.

10 Psi should be safe for daily driving as long as you have a FMIC. Best to have a dyno run after too ensure fuel pump is up for it (They should be but sometimes they fail). CRD and UAS doing them for around $80.00.

Basically the mod listed here is for peope who want to use the standard actuator to get full boost (7-8Psi) right throughout the rev range.

Just wondering, how does having a fmic make running 10psi "safer"?

[Kennedy]

Safer..probabaly. Your standard SMIC will not handle 10 PSi consistently. It will be come heat soaked which leads to hot air going into the turbo.

Then again..if you have mature throttle control and only wanna hit 10Psi once a day or so then that will be fine. Just because it's set at 10Psi doesnt meen you have to hit 10 everytome you accelerate

[nzm033]

thanks Kennedy for ur help

just one more question....

will i get the "Rich n Retard" problem at 10psi?? on S1 r33 GTST

dont know too much about it...wat symptoms will i notcie if i get it...eg flat spots? or will it be fine??

thanks