HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

[antonirabic]

cheers man ye im running everything stock on mine just got it no long ago its gtst 95 only AM mods i got is HKS mushroom pod and hks turbo timer nothing performance wise only intake so if i run this mod will it be too much for turbo or all good? im thinkin to do the switch so that even if it is too much i wont run it all the time just once a blue moon? may as well its a good cheap mod

[SLY-25T]

hey guys and gals

did this mod this mornin and thought i'd take pics cause ppl keep askin 4 them.

heres how i did it on my R33 GTST S1. MAY BE DIFFERENT ON OTHER MODELS!

in the first pic u can see the black and white wires connecting to the plug.

simply cut that black wire in half, not too close to the plug.

next i simply added some extra wire onto both ends of the black wire. i added some extra onto the side near the plug so that if i ever want to reconnect the dual stage while driving, its easy done!

finally, the easyest place i found to ground the wire on the left was on the dual stage bracket itself. the other wire, closest to the plug, should be taped up.

now ENJOY!!!

i found that after this, it runs a touch more boost and flies through the gears much faster. wheels spin even easier now and there 10inches wide! lol. i have no real mods except catback and pod. this shows how much power these cars really have

Jaye

[bluey33]

i found that after this, it runs a touch more boost and flies through the gears much faster. wheels spin even easier now and there 10inches wide! lol. i have no real mods except catback and pod. this shows how much power these cars really have

Jaye

You will spin because you have shit tyres not power. There are plenty of people with 250rwkw + that don't wheel spin on street tyres. All in all though good work on the mod

You do notice the difference.

[Subtek]

Need a bit of help guys. I'm no stranger to wiring (or instructions for that matter) so that's not the problem. The problem is I know jack all about this sort of stuff, just recently buying my first Skyline. Went in to have a look at my stock solenoid and give this a shot when I found this:

That plug was just sitting there as well, not connected to anything, but I still have the two stage boost. Can someone tell me what this is? And if I can still do this mod or not? Thanks .

[Duncan]

need a better pic, but I am guessing it is a bleed valve. no wires to it right?

and you can't have the 2 stage boost anymore without the stock solenoid....it might just be slow to boost up

[Subtek]

Yeah there is no wires to it thats all it is, that little black peice and the two hoses coming off it. Could have sworn I have the 2 stage but clearly I guess I was mistaken. Would I be better off with this setup rather then the solenoid though?

[HYBRID VL]

can you put some pics up or somthing thanks mate

[bluey33]

Need a bit of help guys. I'm no stranger to wiring (or instructions for that matter) so that's not the problem. The problem is I know jack all about this sort of stuff, just recently buying my first Skyline. Went in to have a look at my stock solenoid and give this a shot when I found this:

That plug was just sitting there as well, not connected to anything, but I still have the two stage boost. Can someone tell me what this is? And if I can still do this mod or not? Thanks .

That is a GFB or Go Fast Bits bleeder valve (boost controller)

The lines are setup correctly and if you look down the top of the boost controller, you will see a hex screw.

If you screw it out it will provide the car with more boost, if you screw it in then you will decrease boost pressure.

This means you bypass the factory boost solenoid and therefore run what ever boost you like.

The boost controller is illegal so it is up to you to choose if you would like it returned to the factory setup.

Edited September 28, 2008 by bluey33

[Basti]

this thread needs to be cleaned up a bit i rekon.

was the motor cold?

on my 33 i have bypassed the solenoid altogether.

mine never had the top tube going to the solenoid ???

what i done was unplug the solenoid all together and run a tube from the intercooler piping to the actuator.

hits 7psi by about 2200 rpm with a 3"split dump pipe

what you have just done is REDUCE the boost. the solenoid increases the boost from 5psi to 7psi. without it, its just your stock actuator controlling boost (set to 5psi on r33's) you see 7psi because you have a full exhaust which adds bout 2psi to what you had before. you should be seeing 9psi with this mod. now if you were to replace the actuator you have with an r32 item, then 10psi all day everyday is yours to play with.

yeah should do, mine doesn't quite hit 10 but close to it (with similar mods)

also, has anyone put a switch in with a triple throw, ie. earthed, earthed to cpu (stock) and open circuit? Was just going to put in a double throw

but driving in the rain today gave me the the triple throw idea. lol

matt

so earthed (7psi), earthed to cpu (5->7psi) and open circuit (5psi)? why?

anyway i had a thought on the way home. instead of a separate switch, has anyone thought of tapping into the snow/power button on autos? stock on snow and normal modes, and 7psi on power. im guessing you'd need some kinda relay setup

[Subtek]

Thanks alot Bluey . I'll keep it until I can afford something else. Not many cops in this town, and they couldn't really care less anyway.

[anomaly]

good day all, just trying to understand what is happening here

before;

catback exhaust + pod filter, had grounded the wire as instructed (even put a little switch inside the cabin to choose between dual stage or just high all the time), worked great

after;

had dump pipe and front mount installed

with it all plugged in as before, it was just functioning as a dual stage boost controller (with roughly the same boost values as before), ie it does not go on high boost all the time

solenoid completely unplugged (should be in low boost all the time as no power or signal), it still somehow functions as a duel stage, with it gaining an extra few psi at 4500rpm.

pulled out the multimeter, and with the car idleing, the power wire was 12v but the signal was 0v (it should be high (12v) when < 4500rpm and low (0v) when >4500rpm)

does anyone have any idea what could have happened??? could it be something like my ECU is running in some funny mode because of the change? I have tried resetting my ECU (disconnecting battery). And how is it running in dual stage with the solenoid disconnected??? (I tried disconnecting the solenoid before the dump pipe and front mount and it just ran in low boost all the time (as it should))

thanks

[QWK32]

anomaly: no, the signal wire is a -ve switched wire. the signal wire wont be grounded when on low boost and when it switches to high boost the ecu grounds the signal wire.

also you are probably getting a slight amount of boost kreep in the higher rpm range due to the increased flow you have given the turbo by installing a larger dump and front mount.

Edited September 30, 2008 by QWK32

[08yannch]

i did the mod a few weeks ago and there was a small change but nothing drastic it may be because there is something wrong with the stock boost controller so what i did today was bypass the boost controller and connected the 2 pipes that run to it together has i nice kick in the pants just before 3G now.

[gotRICE?]

I ended up ditching mine all together and putting in an R32 Actuator.

If your after a fast, steady 10psi its the way to go! Hasnt missed a beat, crept or anything since i did it. Love it!

(Stock Dump > HKS Front > Decat > HKS Silent Power Catback, Blitz LM FMIC, Stock Airbox, Apexi Panel)

Not getting an inch of creep anymore. Must be doing something right finally.

Highly recommended.

[MR R33 GTS-T]

I just went out to do it and looks like someone has already done it to my car....... But it doesnt seem to hit the 7psi i will have to check around and aslo get a stock bov for it.

[MR R33 GTS-T]

Found the problem who ever done it last time didnt have it grounded correctly re wired it and she is all good now.

[RusH_]

Ok so i performed this mod today, i think that it feels a little better, but cant be sure,

here is photo of my stock boost gauge, can someone point out where abouts 5 and 7 psi would be because i wouldnt have a clue how to tell using the current measurements

[gotRICE?]

Well +1 is 14psi approximately.

So 7psi should be around the line between 0 and +1

It should feel ALOT different. The power delivery comes on so much stronger immediately.

[RusH_]

ah cool, thats where it sits, just a tad above the line between 0 and +1

I could swear that before the mod it used to peak about half way between +1 and the line below it, i might reverse it and check

that said, i dont know how it could be getting that high with only a pod filter and fuel pump

[HEKT1K]

I ended up ditching mine all together and putting in an R32 Actuator.

If your after a fast, steady 10psi its the way to go! Hasnt missed a beat, crept or anything since i did it. Love it!

(Stock Dump > HKS Front > Decat > HKS Silent Power Catback, Blitz LM FMIC, Stock Airbox, Apexi Panel)

Not getting an inch of creep anymore. Must be doing something right finally.

Highly recommended.

hey i am about to buy an r32 actuator myself.. some people have noted that they get a slight boost increase in their r33s after adding an exhaust, front mount etc..

so if i was to put in the r32 actuator.. and then later get a stainless dump/front and a front mount.. would it go over 10psi? i don't really want any higher boost levels (turbo/engine is stock)

thanks

Edited December 13, 2008 by HEKT1K