HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

[gotRICE?]

hey i am about to buy an r32 actuator myself.. some people have noted that they get a slight boost increase in their r33s after adding an exhaust, front mount etc..

so if i was to put in the r32 actuator.. and then later get a stainless dump/front and a front mount.. would it go over 10psi? i don't really want any higher boost levels (turbo/engine is stock)

thanks

In my case it did still spike, with the split dump.

But when i went back to the stock dump and HKS front it was fine.

So from experience, id recommend a bellmouth if you are going to upgrade.

[EeLeYe]

Hey All,

I used to have a bleed valve boost controller running 13psi no problemo and have recently gone back to the stock solenoid.

I have spliced the ground cable to a switch that allows me to choose low or high boost mode.

On low boost, it runs at about 7psi (I have a bellmouth 3" exhaust) so it's all normal there;

When I flick the switch to high boost mode, the boost just keeps increasing until the "boost-cut" R&R function activates.

I've checked many times in case I hooked up the solenoid incorrectly by comparing with other people's skylines but all is well.

Does anyone have an idea as to what it could be???

All replies are appreciated,

Elias

[SLY-25T]

just wrote a whole bloody essay reply and internet explorer shit itself!!! grrr!

anyway

elias i would seem to think that you dont have the standard restrictor tubing? its a piece of tube from IC piping (from memory) with a red ring on a certain spot. when that area of the tube it squeezed it feels solid. u will need this to run the 4psi low boost and 7psi high boost modes.

hope this helps

Edited February 26, 2009 by SLY-25T

[EeLeYe]

just wrote a whole bloody essay reply and internet explorer shit itself!!! grrr!

anyway

elias i would seem to think that you dont have the standard restrictor tubing? its a piece of tube from IC piping (from memory) with a red ring on a certain spot. when that area of the tube it squeezed it feels solid. u will need this to run the 4psi low boost and 7psi high boost modes.

hope this helps

Thanks Jaye, much appreciated . Unfortunately I don't have the restrictor tubing so I guess it's low boost mode for the time being.

Elias

[gotRICE?]

Is there a reason why you want to run a switch?

R32 Actuator is your friend

Get rid of the solenoid all together and use your right foot hehe.

[Driftin~Davo]

Why mess up ya stock wiring when u can just disconnect the the stock boost control solinode un plug it and bin it. Then just run some vacume hose from ya cooler pipe to ya wastegate? Has the same outcome (max wastegate preassure) looks cleaner and is heaps quicker.

[gotRICE?]

But then it doesnt bleed off a few extra PSi. Will only run whatever the R33 actuator is set to, 7psi i believe.

Better still, i binned mine and put a 10psi R32 actuator in.

[stefan-w]

I've read a couple of DIY's and tried this one (and a few others too).

Fyi; I own a 1993 R33 since last week, the engine is as good as stock except for some bolt-on mods (an open air filter, a 2.5" downpipe and a 3" catback).

I've read the first few pages, and came to the conclusion that I had to;

- split the black wire, and connect the solenoid-side to a permanent ground ground,

- leave the white wire alone as it is in the loom.

So I hooked the black wire coming out of the solenoid up to a permanent ground, taped in the ground , but all I got after warming the car up was 5psi, all the way to the rev limiter.

So I got to trouble-shooting; I meassured 13.4v using the grounding point I got, and the positive from te plug that's on the loom, so it's got good working wiring.

As far as I know, I didn't make a mistake, maybe you can spot one... here's a real crappy picture of the setup;

Did I make a n00bie mistake and wire up the wrong solenoid or something?

[gotRICE?]

It looks ok to me, but maybe the earth isnt sufficient? Hard to tell from that pic.

Try score an R32 Acutator, then you can remove it all together. I havnt looked back!

[stefan-w]

I should do that don't I hehe, but I've got 'adequate' knowledge about turbocharged Honda Civics, so I still need to look into re-tuning options and what's needed or not, etc.

Right now, I'd just like to create a nice driving car within the boundries of it's stock ECU mapping, so in the meanwhile I can learn.

Now I'm looking into this;

Why mess up ya stock wiring when u can just disconnect the the stock boost control solinode un plug it and bin it. Then just run some vacume hose from ya cooler pipe to ya wastegate? Has the same outcome (max wastegate preassure) looks cleaner and is heaps quicker.

There is a piece of tubing between the actuator and cold-side charge-air pipe, with a T-piece going to the solenoid, also a piece of tubing between the BOV-recirc pipe and the solenoid;

When I'm getting Davo's post right, all I need to do is;

- remove the solenoid

- close the opening on the BOV-recirc pipe

- run a straight piece of vacuum hose between the cold-side charge air pipe and the actuator.

It should then look like this;

This will give me the full 7psi an R33 actuator will allow... am I right?

I hope so, if so, tomorrow will be solenoid-removal day

If not, please flame me for being an fng, and tell me what in my drawing I is wrong.

[gotRICE?]

Perfect. Exactly what i did, but as mentioned with the 10psi R32 Actuator

I struggled to find a little nipple to block the BOV vac line, i didnt like the idea of a bolt.

Managed to score one from a wrecker. I think it was from a old Camry intake manifold Works a treat and is so tidy.

EDIT: Amazing Paint jigs btw

Edited May 27, 2009 by gotRICE?

[QWK32]

isn't the stock waste gate only 5psi, the solenoid bleeds off air to get it to 7psi. or is it the other way around?

Edited May 27, 2009 by QWK32

[stefan-w]

Spare time times beer equals paint-jigs

Thanks for the replies Yarp, much appreciated.

Isn't there a forum on SAU were people introduce themselves?

[HtwCHACtkh]

isn't the stock waste gate only 5psi, the solenoid bleeds off air to get it to 7psi. or is it the other way around?

AFAIK this is the case...

[stefan-w]

I did some work on it today, and removed the solenoid.

5psi, and nothing more.

So, reinstalled the solenoid, gives me the 7psi again from 4500rpm.

Too bad it doesn't work...

[TALBO]

Try score an R32 Acutator, then you can remove it all together. I havnt looked back!

Is the r32 item a straight swap over for the R33 item?

[gotRICE?]

Is the r32 item a straight swap over for the R33 item?

Yes it is.

All you need to do is block off the Vac line that went from the solenoid to the intake, and run one line straight from the Intercooler piping to the actuator.

[TALBO]

Cheers

[Sparks]

I decided to do this the easy way and grounded the black wire. I've never liked electrical tape so I went with black shrink wrap followed by tape. This was my first engine mod to my skyline and I'm very happy with it. Ive never been a redline or nothing driver and usually use the gears to get where Im going so I rarely made it past 4500rpm. Now I've got 7psi all throughout the rev range and the car feels much quicker. The 2psi really does make a difference. I would recommend this mod to anyone

Here's a pic of mine

[gotRICE?]

lol @ not liking electrical tape but using it anyway!

Heatshrink is key. So long as you made sure it was long enough to properly cover the connection its all you need. And looks much neater.