HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

[gotRICE?]

Hey Folks

New to the world of Skylines, and I have tried this modification but im still getting .5 till 4,600rpm and .7 after.

I have cut the black wire, added an earth wire and bolted it to the car. I have done this in 3 different holes and none seem to work, car still hits .5 and boosts to .7after 4600rpm

Any help, should i just keep trying different bolt holes etc??

Cheers

Magoo

Stick up a picture of the wire you cut

[MrMagoo]

Hey lad, no camera at the mo, but there are 2 wires coming from the solenoid, white and black, I cut the black one. Ive read through every page of this thread twice, and the only thin I can think of is the earth?

It still hits the higher boost at 5k, is this right?? As I read that if this black wire is cut but the mod isnt working, then I should only be hitting .5??

Cheers!

[MrMagoo]

Any ideas folks?? Really want this mod to work!

[Got a Pulsar]

From my understanding of this... If you have cut the black wire from the solenoid and earthed it, it is no longer connected to the ECU so it should be on high boost all the time but if the earth is not strong enough, it will stay on low boost all the time. I attached a wire to the Black wire and ran it to a switch in the cabin then earthed it. I get 7 psi at the flick of a switch. Although mine seems to not want to act normally and change from low to high by itself. Have bought another solenoid and will try that. Doesn't really worry me though.

I just flick it when I want it.

[MrMagoo]

Yeah lads this is the wierd thing, I have cut the wire, can it to a new earth and it still drives normally, just below half until 5 and then just about half.

I dont know why its not just hitting .7 all the time or running low boost all the time??

Any ideas??

[Mitcho_7]

I bought my r33 with a fmic, turbo back exhaust and covered pod and this mod had already been done, with a switch in the cabin. I just want to know how i can make the higher level boost go to 10psi by flicking the switch? Will i need a higher rated actuator spring such as the yellow one in this link?

http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/wastegate-replacement-parts

I wanna be able to have two different boost levels that i can run with the flick of a switch from inside the cabin. Would i just be better off to get an electronic boost controller?

[Got a Pulsar]

I wanna be able to have two different boost levels that i can run with the flick of a switch from inside the cabin. Would i just be better off to get an electronic boost controller?

I just use it for that ocassional extra kick in the pants.

Being pretty new to Skyline ownership, I find the extra little bit of boost is just fine for the moment.

I did read on another forum someone suggested using 2 stock boost solenoids might up the boost by an extra 2 psi. Would this work?

Click This Linkage. link to ^^ afore mentioned site.

Update to this : Here's a little something I'm working on. It's just a theory.

So far I have got another solenoid and 2 Y pieces + some hose, it's all hooked up except the wiring.

Looks fairly tidy.

Not sure whether to splice into the power wire to the existing Solenoid or go straight from the Battery...

I'll probably try the Solenoid power first.

I'm thinking I should have :

Normal 5 - 7 psi. Switched 7 psi and with Both Switches flicked... 9 psi.

(although I think mine isn't changing by itself from 5 -7 psi). need to change solenoid over to test.

I hope this Works / Helps. If anyone knows of Any issues / Problems with this, please let us know.

Rob.

Edited May 7, 2011 by Not a Pulsar

[awhiteone]

Hi all,

Been looking through this as mine seems to be running on full boost all the time... standard boost gauge sits just below the line from around 2500-3000rpm all the way to 7,000ish. I also get around 275-300km per tank (using 45l as I never run it down past 1/8th full).

I just whacked on a pod filter yesterday and had a good look around the actuator/ solenoid after reading this as I wanted to see if this mod had been done.

I think i'm missing the solenoid and the actuator has been plumbed into the intake pipe. The vac line leading off the pipe that goes into the actuator has been blocked off too.

Can someone confirm if what I have is full 7psi all the time since I have no solenoid? :-)

[Got a Pulsar]

Click This Linkage. link to ^^ afore mentioned site.

Update to this : Here's a little something I'm working on. It's just a theory.

So far I have got another solenoid and 2 Y pieces + some hose, it's all hooked up except the wiring.

Looks fairly tidy.

Not sure whether to splice into the power wire to the existing Solenoid or go straight from the Battery...

I'll probably try the Solenoid power first.

I'm thinking I should have :

Normal 5 - 7 psi. Switched 7 psi and with Both Switches flicked... 9 psi.

(although I think mine isn't changing by itself from 5 -7 psi). need to change solenoid over to test.

I hope this Works / Helps. If anyone knows of Any issues / Problems with this, please let us know.

Rob.

Muhahahaha!!! IT WORKED!!!

Spliced the power from the original solenoid and spliced the earth wire for my original switch.

Quick Blat around the block and the results were :

No switch flicked = 5 - 7psi

1st switch flicked = 7psi

2nd switch flicked = 8psi

Two switches flicked = 10psi.

I Repeat...Muhahahaha!!!

Twin Solenoids... Lovely.

Edited May 22, 2011 by Not a Pulsar

[gotRICE?]

Good work!

Although i dont see the point. lol.

R32 Actuator, piece of vac hose 10PSI! Muahahaha. lol

[Got a Pulsar]

Good work!

Although i dont see the point. lol.

R32 Actuator, piece of vac hose 10PSI! Muahahaha. lol

I kinda like the idea of switchable boost. Got options

Funny you should mention an R32 actuator cooz nearly a month ago I bought one and a decat pipe off a dude on this site but I haven't received them yet... Think I've been Stooged. Grrrrrr.

I know you're out there Mr Jones.

Edited May 22, 2011 by Not a Pulsar

[jrm]

Just remember to disconnect the solenoid if you do hook up the 10psi actuator. You'll start hitting 14+ psi boost otherwise post 4500rpm ..

[chocco]

lol at switchable boost levels...

if you need to be able to "limit" your boost because your a hoon or wateva it may be

then you dont deserve a turbo car...

your switch is your right foot, not 19 switches pinned all over the dash just to earn 10psi lol

[boiracer]

lol, as informative as this all is.... i agree it seems a bit over the top. if you want 10 just go for the R32 bits. as for why it doesnt work for some peeps just cutting and earthing the wire, that i dunno. its a pretty fool proof thing to do, just make sure it gets a good earth. even sand around the terminal a bit before screwing it down.

[lench]

for the guys with switches in the cabin:

where did you run the cable? i cant seem to find a 'proper' way through the firewall on the passenger side

..unless you fed it along the firewall to the drivers side and then behind the dash

just trying to keep it as clean as possible where it wont foul anything

[gotRICE?]

There is a grommet under the ABS unit.

[Got a Pulsar]

I used this one circled in RED.

Poke a hole from engine bay side with a coat hanger etc and feed the wire through.

Comes out up under the glovebox and is a PITA to grab it but it is doable.

Good luck.

Edited January 30, 2012 by Not a Pulsar

[gotRICE?]

Thats the one im talking about

Im assuming he has ABS, because if he did not im sure the question wouldnt have been asked as it is right in your face with no ABS over it

[lench]

yeah i saw that one behind the ABS but it's next to impossible to feed through (even with small hands)!

i'll try to give it a go but if not it looks like im running a wire through the drivers side

thanks guys!

[gotRICE?]

Its easy! Tape the wire into a coat hanger. lie under the dash and have someone poke it through for you. It comes out somewhere behind the heater. Other than that you don't have any other easy option