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HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid


paulr33

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Why on earth would you want to run lower boost down low? That's heaps pointless.

hahaha sorry when i posted i was thinking if i did this mod then the solenoid would run 7psi down low instead of 5 but then the boost controller would run 12psi up high. I worded it all wrong. Im new to forced induction.

Make the auto transmission last longer is my guess.

Answer above :)

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  • 2 months later...

what does high/low boost read on the stock guage?

as in what KG/CM2?

Stock reading as in x100mmHg (millimeter of mercury)

+7 on the gauge is about 13.5psi..

So 5psi would be about 1/3 of the gauge and 7 would be around half way?

Someone correct me if im wrong.

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trying to work out what boost im running on the stage,

for some reason the prev owner installed an aftermarket guage which reads another random unit.

stock guage

IMAG2037_zps38b60c9f.jpg

aftermarket

IMAG2043_BURST009_zps636e2e30.jpg

so 0.6 is... 8.5psi?

does that sound right for high boost for a 25 neo?

Edited by GH05T
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0.6 bar is 8.7psi, so yeah you have about8.5 as its a bit under 0.6.

and yes that sounds about ok. depending on variables/mods...

oh, and that aftermarket gauge is 'bar' which is pretty commonly used as well as psi.

Edited by Sklyn
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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

ok fellas . read ALL this. am rebuilding an S1 R33 (don't know its history.? ) no boost actuator under bonnet ..? so bought one.. NOW I find out there is NO PLUG for this unit in the loom anywhere..??? SO...am thinking a "MBC" is the way to go..? ( I have a few sitting here ) but for the life of me cannot remember how to plug one in the system on a R33..? cannot seem to throw a pic up to show you NO PLUG..?

can a member give me a quick PIC please on where a mbc goes in these lines please..? and will ditch/remove the stock one being I can never get power to it :angry: ...!!!! all the best...nick .

OK. have "searched" this site and FOUND some answers.. :yes:

Edited by terryterry147
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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I'm trying to do some detective work on what my cars previous owner got up to. I think he may have done this mod to my R34 GT-T, though it's kind of sloppy. In the attached photo, you can see the open wires.

Now, I have an aftermarket boost controller, meaning I should not have to worry about this variable boost. However, this is not my issue. I thought that I should cover up the open wires pictured, so i sprayed contact cleaner on them and wrapped them in electrical tape - first I taped the black wire, then i taped that tightly to the white wire.

However, I am now constantly blowing my tail light fuse (which includes dash lights and parkers). Could this possibly be related, and does the black wire need to be earthed?

Thanks!!

post-126851-0-30985000-1395115360_thumb.jpg

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I would be looking at where the EBC is getting power from. ie in the dash / console area etc.

I've blown that fuse wiring things like gauges before.

Sorry mate, but what was the EBC?

I've checked the tail lights, they are OK, now i start the long process of elimination. Apparently cigarette lighters are often the main culprit.

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Electronic Boost Controller.

Lighter is often used to power gauges etc...

Of course, when i did the stereo install I do remember that it was taking power (or at least ignition/illumination) from there - what should i be looking out for?

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  • 6 months later...
  • 5 months later...

i made that mod last week and work fine on my r34 gtt but now i wanna buy boost controller. schould i connect that black wire back or just leave it and normal install boost controller?

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