Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant wait to try this mod but one burning question bothers me. Why Why WHY did nissan make the r33 with dual stage boost to begin with? They've ruined the low RPM power and for what? Fuel economy? Yeah right. Better turbo/internal reliability? Possibly, but the engine is clearly capable of handling 7-8psi no problems. Does anyone know of any other factory cars with dual-stage boost?

Hi there

i have a stagea RS4 with rb25 NEO in it.

I have cut the black wire,

taped over the side of the ecu,

and extended and earthed the side coming from the solenoid.

I have earthed it on the strut tower bolt (front strut bolt), above the strut bar and below the bolt thingo.

IS THIS CORRECT?

AND IS THIS A RELIABLE EARTH?

pic -> post-9092-1164506061.jpg

thanks

-Matt

that looks fine from what i can see

it should be obvious if it works

the only reason i think of dual stage

is to give the user more of a turbocharged experience

that is, self made lag or less response, then better response/top end

that looks fine from what i can see

it should be obvious if it works

the only reason i think of dual stage

is to give the user more of a turbocharged experience

that is, self made lag or less response, then better response/top end

I would have thought it is there for safety issue....boost not so agressive down low so it drives smoother in the wet???? JMHO

  • 2 weeks later...

hi all,

I wired this mod up this morning, works well. I wired it to an {on/on} switch inside my car. This allows me to flick the switch one way which puts it to standard where the ECU grounds the solenoid at 4500rpm, and when i flick the switch the other way it grounds the solenoid straight away so it opens and i have full boost as soon as i put my foot down,

Thanks for the mod,,,,!!

^^ I have recently done exactly the same thing. Pickup is improved, stronger midrange. It's not a HUGE difference but it does feel better.

Would much prefer to be running 14.7psi all the time though ;)

hi all,

I wired this mod up this morning, works well. I wired it to an {on/on} switch inside my car. This allows me to flick the switch one way which puts it to standard where the ECU grounds the solenoid at 4500rpm, and when i flick the switch the other way it grounds the solenoid straight away so it opens and i have full boost as soon as i put my foot down,

Thanks for the mod,,,,!!

yeah im going to do the same thing on my Stagea once i get it home jsut bought it waiting for the 4 brand new tyres and RWC then pick it up for some thrashing :laugh:

cheers to the original poster. and whoever thought of this idea.. i just hope it works as good as everyone elses

This mod was great, just wanted to join and say it worked a treat, though shes sat outside due to a bananad manifold....... lol...

Great performance for 5 mins work!!! Very easy to do...

Thanks and Merry Christmas all!!! :laugh:

Edited by GtsTs2UK

Did this out of boredom even though my boost controller goes in when the boost gauge goes in.

I believe the dual stage is there for safety reasons, not all Japanese owners would be race car drivers and people came in my car would shit themselves at 5 psi. Also, went for a run to test it all out, went off in first and where I usually just planted it and grabbed traction instead it just gave some wheel spin. Boost comes on around 2750... so I can see why 5 psi is there till 4500rpm as it has less of a "BOOST JUST KICKED IN Y0" and more of a "fast... ohh my 4500rpm... FASTER".

cheers for the simple mod, improve the mid range by far for some quick shits and giggles.

  • 2 weeks later...

After reading right through this topic...I've noticed too many people listing different figures regarding the PSI pressures/readings for the stupid stock boost gauge.

Well here are the 'correct' numbers.

mmHg x100

------------------------------------------------------------------

- 7 = (PSI) 0 = (Bar) 0.0000000

1/4 = (PSI) 3.383936519 = (Bar) 0.2333142

0 = (PSI) 6.767873037 = (Bar) 0.4666284

3/4 = (PSI) 10.15180956 = (Bar) 0.6999426

+ 7 = (PSI) 13.53574607 = (Bar) 0.9332568

Well I decided to try this small mod last night...and I'm quite surprised actually how different...and better the car feels.

Great Stuff!!

Edited by Darkboy
  • 4 weeks later...

I try this mode few hours ago but absolutely no changes it still working till 4500-5000 on 5PSI and than 7-8 PSI, what i done wrong??please help.... and when gauge should show on second gear or third??? or it dipends on RPM????

Ok after being confused with mmhg , and psi readings i decided to :( , and found this converter,

http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/boost_converter.shtml

I am not sure how accurate this is but give it a go and see what you can make of it!

:):P

Well here are the 'correct' numbers.

I don't agree with all your figures.. the dial sits at 0 with ignition on and engine not running, so it can't be producing 6psi of boost :laugh:

mmHg x100 (relative)

------------------------------------------------------------------

- 7 = (PSI) -13.5 = (Bar) -0.92

1/4 = (PSI) -6.8 = (Bar) -0.47

0 = (PSI) 0 = (Bar) 0

3/4 = (PSI) 6.8 = (Bar) 0.47

+ 7 = (PSI) 13.5 = (Bar) 0.92

I don't agree with all your figures.. the dial sits at 0 with ignition on and engine not running, so it can't be producing 6psi of boost :mrt:

mmHg x100 (relative)

------------------------------------------------------------------

- 7 = (PSI) -13.5 = (Bar) -0.92

1/4 = (PSI) -6.8 = (Bar) -0.47

0 = (PSI) 0 = (Bar) 0

3/4 = (PSI) 6.8 = (Bar) 0.47

+ 7 = (PSI) 13.5 = (Bar) 0.92

Yea thats the figure I got with that link, but i wasn't to sure if it was correct, anyway i'm about to do this mod will let you know if i can get it to work! :mrt: :sorcerer:

Edit: Wow I just finished doing this with a switch, man it works well, much more low down power over all im happy with it, i like the idea of using the switch so when it rains back to 5.

Cheers :laugh::(

Edited by XRAIDER

After doing the mod and spending the first week doing nothing but fiddle with my toggle, I left it in "standard" mode until the other night.. nice cool dry weather flipped the switch and I was grinning like a little kid after a few seconds.

worth keeping in reserve for special occasions sometimes, otherwise you risk spoiling yourself every day >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It’s new. It’s the cd009. I did take the transmission apart to mill down the bellhousing and had both housings come off the gears so wondering is something isn’t in right. I am running redline. I can get it in gear running too but it’s just not easier and it’s almost like 2, 4, 6, and reverse all the back gears aren’t happy going in
    • I’ll remember that as a last choice. It’s brand new
    • Got keys and did a walk around the yard planning the landscaping works with the family that I will be doing Main effort: remove all the woodchip in the gardens that are around (attached) to the outside of the house and replace with 10mm blue metal, having woodchip close to the house is a recipe for inviting white ants, currently there are no white ants within the block and I would like to keep it that way I'll be buying some large raised garden beds to grow veggies and stuff, and the woodchip will be mulched with everything else that gets dug up, pulled out, or cut down during works Next will some minor drainage and landscaping maintenance up one side of the house, where the fuse box, AC, and solar stuff will go, about 12 mtrs long by 2 meters wide, I'll break up the soil, add gypsum and then I'll dig in a French drains about 300mm deep x 300mm wide and fill it with agg pipe and blue metal, then level out the whole area with a 50mm layer of blue metal, the soil, whilst currently pretty compacted, will break up well with the gypsum to aid in drainage, I'll then cover the area with a 50mm layer of more blue metal In saying this, the drainage issue is minor, but that little hidden away area down the side is untidy and weedy, and as all of the main elec stuff is there I want it neat and tidy to appease my OCD Again, the material excavated from the French drains with be added to the garden bed mulch, as will some rose bushes and some other crap looking garden plants, and a old apricot tree that is looking worse for wear The apricot tree is currently in a little roundish garden bed that is in the middle of the back yard with few other crappy looking plants around it, that will all be removed, levelled, re-turfed, and is a perfect spot for a hills hoist There is also a area about 3m x 2m between the rear fence and shed that will get some attention, it looks like some stuff was stored there and the grass is dead, that will also get broken up and mulched, and is a prime spot for a pumpkin patch I've guestimated that I'll need: 3 tonnes of blue metal, 12 meters of agg pipe, 5kg of Gypsum, and a hills hoist, so a few bags of concrete as well to set it in place (the house currently has one of those pull out 4 line jobs, whilst it works, I want a retro old school hills hoist), I am also going to run some chickens, there's a great spot for a coop, so a chicken coop to suit 4 of those lovely egg laying bitches will also be on the job card That should keep me busy for a while, and will finish off the back yard ready for a early spring planting of some veggies and berries  Once the main effort is done I'll start out the front, there's a large rock garden that could use some TLC, but that is only minor works Should be fully moved in within 2 weeks, the landscaping works will start then Fun times, retirement is good  
    • It happens, that's what your single stage filler is used for.  If it is still visible after the 3 coats of 2k primer, it will be visible after the paint is laid down.  Its hard to give 100% perfect advice without being there in person, I'm very tempted to say stop where you are, fill your pin holes with a single stage putty first then keep going. 
    • New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions. 
×
×
  • Create New...