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Why on earth would you want to run lower boost down low? That's heaps pointless.

hahaha sorry when i posted i was thinking if i did this mod then the solenoid would run 7psi down low instead of 5 but then the boost controller would run 12psi up high. I worded it all wrong. Im new to forced induction.

Make the auto transmission last longer is my guess.

Answer above :)

  • 2 months later...

what does high/low boost read on the stock guage?

as in what KG/CM2?

Stock reading as in x100mmHg (millimeter of mercury)

+7 on the gauge is about 13.5psi..

So 5psi would be about 1/3 of the gauge and 7 would be around half way?

Someone correct me if im wrong.

trying to work out what boost im running on the stage,

for some reason the prev owner installed an aftermarket guage which reads another random unit.

stock guage

IMAG2037_zps38b60c9f.jpg

aftermarket

IMAG2043_BURST009_zps636e2e30.jpg

so 0.6 is... 8.5psi?

does that sound right for high boost for a 25 neo?

Edited by GH05T

0.6 bar is 8.7psi, so yeah you have about8.5 as its a bit under 0.6.

and yes that sounds about ok. depending on variables/mods...

oh, and that aftermarket gauge is 'bar' which is pretty commonly used as well as psi.

Edited by Sklyn
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

ok fellas . read ALL this. am rebuilding an S1 R33 (don't know its history.? ) no boost actuator under bonnet ..? so bought one.. NOW I find out there is NO PLUG for this unit in the loom anywhere..??? SO...am thinking a "MBC" is the way to go..? ( I have a few sitting here ) but for the life of me cannot remember how to plug one in the system on a R33..? cannot seem to throw a pic up to show you NO PLUG..?

can a member give me a quick PIC please on where a mbc goes in these lines please..? and will ditch/remove the stock one being I can never get power to it :angry: ...!!!! all the best...nick .

OK. have "searched" this site and FOUND some answers.. :yes:

Edited by terryterry147
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I'm trying to do some detective work on what my cars previous owner got up to. I think he may have done this mod to my R34 GT-T, though it's kind of sloppy. In the attached photo, you can see the open wires.

Now, I have an aftermarket boost controller, meaning I should not have to worry about this variable boost. However, this is not my issue. I thought that I should cover up the open wires pictured, so i sprayed contact cleaner on them and wrapped them in electrical tape - first I taped the black wire, then i taped that tightly to the white wire.

However, I am now constantly blowing my tail light fuse (which includes dash lights and parkers). Could this possibly be related, and does the black wire need to be earthed?

Thanks!!

post-126851-0-30985000-1395115360_thumb.jpg

Cheers for the reply, I appreciate it

I would be looking at where the EBC is getting power from. ie in the dash / console area etc.

I've blown that fuse wiring things like gauges before.

I would be looking at where the EBC is getting power from. ie in the dash / console area etc.

I've blown that fuse wiring things like gauges before.

Sorry mate, but what was the EBC?

I've checked the tail lights, they are OK, now i start the long process of elimination. Apparently cigarette lighters are often the main culprit.

Electronic Boost Controller.

Lighter is often used to power gauges etc...

Of course, when i did the stereo install I do remember that it was taking power (or at least ignition/illumination) from there - what should i be looking out for?

  • 6 months later...
  • 5 months later...

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