Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've found a guy on ebay that checks the registration on cars that have been exported from Japan, only takes about 5 days for them to do it. but they do come through with the goods

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271234223049?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3332wt_1386

so if they dont let you have a look at the import documents/registration papers from Japan, and you REALLY want the car. then i would advise this to be done.

its also valid for up to 4 years prior to the car being exported. mine was exported 3 years ago and all the details were still in Japan's systems

  • Like 1

i am not sure, but they send you a e-mail with a .pdf file to the original scaned document. aswell as a translated document. then they post the originals to you.

yeah $100 is nothing when it means the diffrence between a $15k car.. or a $5k car. gives you a bit of piece of mind too

  • 3 weeks later...

"R" is panel replaced. Not always accident damage, but can be indicative. Car with a body kit will have a R rating.

They can be imported and sold, check the "beware R34 gtr" thread in general discussions. Cars with Chassis damage however, should not be sold according to SEVS.

You can cover up chassis damage nd let unknowing punters drive away in an unsafe rusted chassis rail car.

Not really, the 'R' means structural repair. If cars have had just panels like fenders replaced or aftermarket bonets etc, those will be marked with a "XX" on the report and such cars can get upto 4.5 grade as they didnt have any major damage. 'R' comes into the picture when inner panels behind the outer ones have repairs on them or are bent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.
    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
×
×
  • Create New...