Jump to content
SAU Community

Aem Series 2 Ecu & Apexi Avcr

Shazz
 Share

Recommended Posts

Shazz Collaborator

Shazz

Posted
Posted

For sale are items removed from my R33 GTR, the only reason for removing these items from the car is that the build is heading in a different direction. All items were installed in the car for 12 months, however in that time it only saw 2 dyno sessions as it developed engine problems and was parked up. So all items are in as new condition, and come in origional boxes with instructions. Pictures of actual items to come shortly when i pick the items up from the workshop. All parts located in brisbane

Apexi AVCR black edition - $450

Everyone knows what this is but the manufacturers website is below

AEM Series 2 ECU with additional sensors - $1600
Plug and play ecu which includes Wideband sensor, boost control solenoid, and map sensor all of which were purchased as extras. All sensors and the ecu will come in origional boxes with instructions. This is a full featured stand alone ecu that allows you to remove your Air flow meters. Unfortanetly my car never got up and running in this time and i was unable to make use of this ecu and all its features. The manufacturers website is listed below, complete kit cost just over $2500
Aem Series 2 Key Features:
dot_13x13.gif Plugs directly into the factory harness. No rewiring necessary. dot_13x13.gif Uses all the factory sensors. dot_13x13.gif Includes start up calibrations. dot_13x13.gif System is fully enabled and unlocked - Never pay for upgrades! dot_13x13.gif Context sensitive help eases tuning process. dot_13x13.gif Maps can be password protected by the tuner to prevent unauthorized usage or sharing. dot_13x13.gif Runs on Windows-compatible software. dot_13x13.gif Up to 12 peak and hold injector drivers. dot_13x13.gif Up to 8 direct-fire coil outputs. dot_13x13.gif Up to 16 general-purpose outputs. dot_13x13.gif Up to 8 definable switch inputs. dot_13x13.gif Up to 4 EGT inputs with fuel trim. dot_13x13.gif 1MB of internal data logging. dot_13x13.gif Electronic boost control. dot_13x13.gif Full idle control. dot_13x13.gif Programmable traction control. dot_13x13.gif Software definable knock control. dot_13x13.gif Two step launch control. dot_13x13.gif User configurable soft-cut rev limiters. dot_13x13.gif Wet or dry nitrous control. dot_13x13.gif Tune using new USB communication port or serial port. dot_13x13.gif Works with all AEM gauges.

ECU

http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/series-2-plug-play-engine-management-system-30/

WIDEBAND

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air-fuel-systems-15/inline-wideband-air-fuel-uego-controller-36/

BOOST CONTROLL KIT

http://www.aemelectronics.com/boost-control-solenoid-kit-solenoid-668

MAP SENSOR

http://www.aemelectronics.com/3-5-bar-50-psia-map-stainless-steel-sensor-kit-653
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...