Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

really need some help with this one guys.
I've been reading about and scouring the net for solutions but i cant seem to find anything that's fixed it yet.

Ive got an autech stagea (260 RS)
and whats happening is ill be driving along all good, and sometimes randomly, but usually after ive been coasting in gear for a bit then go to accelerate there will be either no response from the throttle of it will try to rev up and start sputtering like crazy and blowing out black smoke for about 2-3 seconds after which it will come back and run fine for the next few minutes till it happens again for 2- 3 seconds then runs fine straight after. Odd.

so far few things I've tried based on what I've found on the forums from similar problems are:
new fuel pump, replaced fuel reg, replaced CAS, replaced ignition pack, new splitfire coil packs + changed spark plugs as well as plugging in a consult cable to check for fault codes, there were none

I'm really running out of ideas here guys the car other wise runs fine and isn't down on power at all so im really just scratching my head over this one :/

one other thing i should add is today i pulled off the BOV's because i noticed just last week that i was getting a bit of fluttering, if say i put my foot down to full throttle (WOT) then back off to about half throttle it would flutter. (not sure if thats related to the sputtering at all)
I pulled them off and set them up for a bench test, and under 20 psi i was getting a lot of leakage out of the recirc outlet on both valves, within about 3 or 4 seconds the pressure in the piping dropped right to zero

checked everywhere else and there were no other leaks from anywhere else.... surely that's not right?


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429312-help-rb26-keeps-sputtering/
Share on other sites

ohh yea sorry forgot to add that as well

first i tried re soldering the connector pins to the PCB (a common problem there of having dry joints) which made no difference
so then i bought another pair to try and nothing...no difference

sounds like a good idea but wouldn't blocking them cause the car to stall every time i pull up, blocking them wont cause any other running problems than that will it??

fuel economy is as per normal but in regards to over fueling the only sign of running rich is the black smoke clouds i get when it sputters and some extra blackened spark plugs.

causes for over fueling?..... bad injectors maybe?


will have a shot at running around with them blocked though and see what happens
cheers.

BOVs need positive pressure in the signal port, the 6mm hose off the top, to remain closed and the. When that drops or goes to vacuum the valve opens

Fluttering as you described is normal for a GTR, both mine do it

Give it a full service, all fluids and filters, it's hard to guess the problem over the Internet

BOVs need positive pressure in the signal port, the 6mm hose off the top, to remain closed and the. When that drops or goes to vacuum the valve opens

Fluttering as you described is normal for a GTR, both mine do it

Give it a full service, all fluids and filters, it's hard to guess the problem over the Internet

yea i understand the concept of how they operate...just seemed odd that it was fluttering to me but if you reckon its normal then sweet...bit of peace of mind there, also seemed odd that when i set it up for a bench test with 20 PSI on both sides it was leaaking air out of the recirc outlet pretty quickly. went from 20 psi to 0 in about 4 seconds when i pulled stopped supplying air.

however....

update on the car.....seems to be sweet now

after i cleaned up the BOV's and absolutely drowned them in WD-40 it was still sputtering but after driving around for maybe 40 minutes it seemed to go away

been running fine for two days now cant believe it was as simple as that -_-

Well it turned out to be the bovs either not closing all the way or maybe the plunger not being able to move freely enough

literally all I did was take them out and hit them with some wd-40 and so far so good, will probably look into replacing them still though

hope that helps anyone else with any similar issues

yea i understand the concept of how they operate...just seemed odd that it was fluttering to me but if you reckon its normal then sweet...bit of peace of mind there, also seemed odd that when i set it up for a bench test with 20 PSI on both sides it was leaking air out of the recirc outlet pretty quickly. went from 20 psi to 0 in about 4 seconds when i pulled stopped supplying air.

however....

update on the car.....seems to be sweet now

after i cleaned up the BOV's and absolutely drowned them in WD-40 it was still sputtering but after driving around for maybe 40 minutes it seemed to go away

been running fine for two days now cant believe it was as simple as that -_-

I wasn't sure if that was how you did it as it wasn't stated and that isn't right they should hold that fine

if i get it right i can make them flutter for about 10 seconds, something i do when i'm bored driving around

good to see it's sorted, on to enjoying it

your not in western sydney area by chance, i saw a nice white 260 parked at the shops where we get coffees

yea exactly what i thought defiantly not meant to be doing that, ahh well ill pick up a pair of aftermarket replacements sometime next week just for the peace of mind that it wont come back, but do i really need to buy two, surely i cant just fit one and block the other off ?

hahaha i do the same thing about 10 seconds sometimes if im traveling up hill :thumbsup:
seems to be holding boost much better now than it used to though by the way

nah no where near man im from down in Melbourne, they're starting to pop up more commonly around here now though but everytime i see one its like.... http://i.qkme.me/3paixf.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...