Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As you are new to Turbo's, it may be worth pointing out that an Atmospheric BOV will potentailly make your car run like arse as 33s are designed to have the BOV plumbed back into the system.

Having said that, a mate of mine has one of these on a pipe and may be willing to sell it...

I have one that you can have complete with the pipe including the flange for $50 plus postage.

Here are a few pictures

post-24210-0-18972100-1375008613_thumb.jpg

post-24210-0-36799900-1375008662_thumb.jpg

Please PM me if you are interested.

As you are new to Turbo's, it may be worth pointing out that an Atmospheric BOV will potentailly make your car run like arse as 33s are designed to have the BOV plumbed back into the system.

Having said that, a mate of mine has one of these on a pipe and may be willing to sell it...

When you say run like arse what do you mean by that? How much would he be willing to sell it for?

Dont do it!

Factory plumb back BOV only.

Do some research into how turbo AFM based engines work.

Changing to an atmospheric BOV will make the car run like shit as said above.

Dont do it!

Factory plumb back BOV only.

Do some research into how turbo AFM based engines work.

Changing to an atmospheric BOV will make the car run like shit as said above.

Mr. Kitto since it seems you know what your talking about why don't you educate me? :P

The air that has been measured by the airflow meter is released to atmosphere instead of back into the system.

The ecu (computer) has read that air and added fuel to match the air.

So the engine can stall when you clutch in as now there is too much fuel.

Plumbed in bov keeps the air in the system, so all is well.

The air that has been measured by the airflow meter is released to atmosphere instead of back into the system.

The ecu (computer) has read that air and added fuel to match the air.

So the engine can stall when you clutch in as now there is too much fuel.

Plumbed in bov keeps the air in the system, so all is well.

This.

If you really really want an atmospheric BOV (I dont know why because they attract attention and are soo cheesy and wanky) then you will need to move your AFM cold side of the intercooler and have the BOV located a fair distance up stream of the AFM. When you move the AFM youll need a proper retune.

Moving the AFM doesnt always work either.

Or switch to a MAP sensor based ECU.

Best option? Retain the factory one.

The air that has been measured by the airflow meter is released to atmosphere instead of back into the system.

The ecu (computer) has read that air and added fuel to match the air.

So the engine can stall when you clutch in as now there is too much fuel.

Plumbed in bov keeps the air in the system, so all is well.

Alright great thanks for the info. Didn't know that So what type of aftermarket BOV is plumbed in?

This.

If you really really want an atmospheric BOV (I dont know why because they attract attention and are soo cheesy and wanky) then you will need to move your AFM cold side of the intercooler and have the BOV located a fair distance up stream of the AFM. When you move the AFM youll need a proper retune.

Moving the AFM doesnt always work either.

Or switch to a MAP sensor based ECU.

Best option? Retain the factory one.

Nuh it's all good. I didn't know there were different types of BOV to be honest. But thanks for the explanation, but I'm good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 🤣👍   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
×
×
  • Create New...