Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb: Blitz Bov With Rb25Det Adaptor [Perth]

masasaki2342

By masasaki2342,
in Wanted to Buy

 Share

Recommended Posts

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

As you are new to Turbo's, it may be worth pointing out that an Atmospheric BOV will potentailly make your car run like arse as 33s are designed to have the BOV plumbed back into the system.

Having said that, a mate of mine has one of these on a pipe and may be willing to sell it...

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

I have one that you can have complete with the pipe including the flange for $50 plus postage.

Here are a few pictures

post-24210-0-18972100-1375008613_thumb.jpg

post-24210-0-36799900-1375008662_thumb.jpg

Please PM me if you are interested.

masasaki2342 Collaborator

masasaki2342

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As you are new to Turbo's, it may be worth pointing out that an Atmospheric BOV will potentailly make your car run like arse as 33s are designed to have the BOV plumbed back into the system.

Having said that, a mate of mine has one of these on a pipe and may be willing to sell it...

When you say run like arse what do you mean by that? How much would he be willing to sell it for?

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Dont do it!

Factory plumb back BOV only.

Do some research into how turbo AFM based engines work.

Changing to an atmospheric BOV will make the car run like shit as said above.

masasaki2342 Collaborator

masasaki2342

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dont do it!

Factory plumb back BOV only.

Do some research into how turbo AFM based engines work.

Changing to an atmospheric BOV will make the car run like shit as said above.

Mr. Kitto since it seems you know what your talking about why don't you educate me? :P

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

The air that has been measured by the airflow meter is released to atmosphere instead of back into the system.

The ecu (computer) has read that air and added fuel to match the air.

So the engine can stall when you clutch in as now there is too much fuel.

Plumbed in bov keeps the air in the system, so all is well.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

The air that has been measured by the airflow meter is released to atmosphere instead of back into the system.

The ecu (computer) has read that air and added fuel to match the air.

So the engine can stall when you clutch in as now there is too much fuel.

Plumbed in bov keeps the air in the system, so all is well.

This.

If you really really want an atmospheric BOV (I dont know why because they attract attention and are soo cheesy and wanky) then you will need to move your AFM cold side of the intercooler and have the BOV located a fair distance up stream of the AFM. When you move the AFM youll need a proper retune.

Moving the AFM doesnt always work either.

Or switch to a MAP sensor based ECU.

Best option? Retain the factory one.

masasaki2342 Collaborator

masasaki2342

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The air that has been measured by the airflow meter is released to atmosphere instead of back into the system.

The ecu (computer) has read that air and added fuel to match the air.

So the engine can stall when you clutch in as now there is too much fuel.

Plumbed in bov keeps the air in the system, so all is well.

Alright great thanks for the info. Didn't know that So what type of aftermarket BOV is plumbed in?

This.

If you really really want an atmospheric BOV (I dont know why because they attract attention and are soo cheesy and wanky) then you will need to move your AFM cold side of the intercooler and have the BOV located a fair distance up stream of the AFM. When you move the AFM youll need a proper retune.

Moving the AFM doesnt always work either.

Or switch to a MAP sensor based ECU.

Best option? Retain the factory one.

Nuh it's all good. I didn't know there were different types of BOV to be honest. But thanks for the explanation, but I'm good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • Duncan
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By Duncan · Posted

      1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • The Bogan
      Boxes of oil?

      By The Bogan · Posted

    • MBS206
      Boxes of oil?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...