Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to hear about all the drama mate..

I just threw out an RB30 crank on the weekend because its been sitting in my shed for the last 3 years!

Series 1 & 2 cranks are the same - its just the block that differs

Sorry to hear about all the drama mate..

I just threw out an RB30 crank on the weekend because its been sitting in my shed for the last 3 years!

Series 1 & 2 cranks are the same - its just the block that differs

Don't rub it in his face that rb30s are cheap as chips here! :)

  • 2 weeks later...

hi mate,

that's one nice Z. I just went through that kinda pain in the not distant past...

in regards to your oil filter block. if the stock rb30 threaded screw on fitting is there, you might want to measure the exact diameter on it, then check the block sleeve.

My first motor failed because I left the 30 one on, which is a beez dick too small for the sleeve, and oil does not circulate properly, and caused the same failure that you have suffered.

if you do have the rb30 one on the block, you need to get another one, or rb25 one which has the thicker sleeve.

Edited by SilverECR33

Those bits you found look alot like the woodruff key or keyway that holds fhe crank gear and balancer on.

Im putting an oil cooler on my rb30 thanks for the tip ecr33 i might have done the same...

But he found them in the head!!

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

This is the cometic exhaust gasket, what a pos.

13678580563_7318c8fbce_b.jpg

This is the tomei exhaust gasket

13678544345_b1f403e232_b.jpg

Cometic

13678560705_b734b698b7_b.jpg

Tomei

13678551795_87bf258620_b.jpg

Also on the crappy cometic gasket the rivets on the gaskets would need to be removed.

13678560705_b734b698b7_b.jpg

So thankfully I have a mill so port match the big boy head ports.

13678515475_9751cfcce8_b.jpg

13678564393_b1e93b8cc5_b.jpg

13678879154_36ca9d25ae_b.jpg

13679503434_46a9ef37df_b.jpg

13679247915_4a9c50a70b_b.jpg

13679600614_0cd25c0f58_b.jpg

And for the grande finale

13678550863_b86e4761da_b.jpg

Shazam another one bites the dust. 2.7 miles that one lasted.

13800672053_dbfb1e28f3.jpg

13801005134_893f8da94d.jpg

13800684213_d9aea86b83.jpg

13800660535_4aefe10c22.jpg

13800672955_1b279ba1c3.jpg

13800693193_662834e47d.jpg

13800915074_974d057b76.jpg

Well I'm assuming the valves are going to be bent. i got everything back to TDC with the belt off, the idler snapped. WTF man i bought a cam belt tension gauge and had everything set to 196nm. WTF

The man's trying to keep me down man i swear.

13821143584_dfe1fa4e48.jpg

13820800915_87ec355c4f.jpg

13821130954_2eeffa2504.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...