Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, Im currently under going a new build on my R32 GTR with the build aimed for a little street use but mainly the drag strip. My main worry at the moment is spliting the standard block. Has anyone on here had any experience with half grout filling of RB26s and any reports of running temperatures and any other feed back would be great!!

Cheers Simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429446-strengthening-a-rb26-block/
Share on other sites

All ready spent the money on having this block treated and machined. Not to keen on forking and doing it all again hence the reason I want to know if anyone has half filled them. Personally I think it will be stronger then a N1 and I cant see there being a problem with overheating but would be good to hear from someone who has actually done it.

Majority of the temperature comes from the cylinder head anyway. You should have no problems filling the bottom end up to around 1/3. Call up some race engine builders and talk to them about it.

Josh.

I have a reasoably stout set up in my GTR.

I chose to keep the standard matching numbers block in my car.

My aim is over 500rwkw, so I chose to part grout fill my block. If it's a street car, you will need to plan your cooling system very carefully. Most of they guys I have spoken to with grout filled blocks run a stock water pump with the stock pully.

I have also chosen to use a specialised coolant and twin pass radiator.

Cheers

Justin

I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

I've just done the same (Hardbloc to bottom of lower welch plugs) with my 30/26 build. Will wait and see what affect that has. Being that low it shouldn't have too great an affect on cooling but hopefully just enough to lock everything together a bit down the bottom where they normally split the block.

It actually makes the cooling process more efficient.... however, your oil temps will go up as a result of no lower block cooling.

The main issue is loss or coolant volume.

Cheers

Justin

Thanks for the feed back!! XRATED have you done much driving in yours to see how the temperature sits? I was planning on going to the top of the welch plugs which is pretty much half. Obviously im also running a large oil cooler and koyo radiator which will also help.

Thanks for the feed back!! XRATED have you done much driving in yours to see how the temperature sits? I was planning on going to the top of the welch plugs which is pretty much half. Obviously im also running a large oil cooler and koyo radiator which will also help.

Mine only has an issue when at idle and/or low revs/low speed. but I'm using an N1 water pump and under drive pulley. I knew I was going to have an issue, but I wanted to experiment with it.

I have a Racepace twin pass rad, with the stock clutch fan/shroud... but the N1 pump just can't flow enough water at low engine speed, especially with the under drive pulley.

If I was running e85, I might be able to get away with it??? as combustion temp's would be lower.

I know of 3 high hp rb's that are hardblocked up to the welsh plugs (going above the welsh plugs is a lot harder) that run perfectly cool at low speed with the right set up.

Cheers

Justin

running hardblock to bottom of the welsh plugs. n1 pump (no underdrive) & 50mm radiator. No cooling issues at all with street driving, car warms up quicker, but normal temps are the same as before engine build

Have had 2 blocks. Both filled at least 1/4, no temp issues to speak of.

Both were street driven with N1 water/oil pumps & using a decent tri-radiator (once was Racepace, one was Race Radiators) both @ 360-380rwkw.

Ambient temp - 20 degrees
Water temp - 70-74 degrees. heavy traffic 78
Oil temps (inc oil cooler) - constant 80-82, wouldn't budge

Won't be a problem IMO for daily driving as power isn't really relevant when putting around in traffic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...