Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NOTE: SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY

Location: Mermaid Beach, Gold Coast, Q 4218

Car:

• 1994 Black R33 GTS25 Type-S

• Manual 5 speed

History:

• In 2004 by Special Vehicle Imports (QLD) with 50,000km. In the time I've owned

it I have traveled approximately 10,000km per year. When it had just clicked over

100,000 km, I had the timing belt and water pump replaced. It is serviced

by Chapman and Chapmans every 10,000 km and I change the oil, oil filter and

inspect the spark plugs myself every 5,000 km in between.

Wheel/Suspension/Brakes:

• Sparco Racing rims 235/45 R17 with 4 new tyres (99%

tread)

• Whiteline springs with modified circlip height adjustable Bilstein shocks

(Sydneykid spec)

• Whiteline fixed front and adjustable rear swaybars

• Whiteline adjustable front and rear camber bushes

• Whiteline adjustable front castor bushes

• Whiteline pineapples

• Nismo front strut brace with master cylinder stopper

• R33 GTR rear strut brace

• Locked hicas

• R32 DBA slotted rotors and calipers (rebuilt) front with Hawk ultimate brake

pads

• R32 stock rotors and calipers rear (rebuilt) with Hawk ultimate brake pads

• ADR approved front and rear braided brake lines with Motul RBF600 fluid

Drivetrain:

• R33 GTR clutch

Power:

• Coby extractors with HPC coating, 2.5" high flow metal cat and a 3" Xforce Varex Remote Control Muffler

• Apexi SAFC-II (Black version) tuned by Matt Spry

Cosmetics:

• R34 GTR bucket seats (Incl. Modification Plate)

• Stealth rear wing

• Nismo tinted side indicators

• Tinted windows

Extras:

• CD Headunit

• Pioneer 6.5" front speakers and Pioneer 6x9" rear speakers in a custom MDF shelf

• Australian approved 3+1 immobilisation point $1000 aftermarket alarm system

(installed by Chris Rogers, will disclose if buyer is serious)

PM or Call me on: 0421714892

post-117252-0-27342400-1375332784_thumb.jpg

post-117252-0-26288700-1375332797_thumb.jpg

post-117252-0-36657900-1375332813_thumb.jpg

post-117252-0-21238000-1375332940_thumb.jpg

post-117252-0-32325900-1375333038_thumb.jpg

post-117252-0-91296700-1375333161_thumb.jpg

Edited by r33_gts1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429583-1994-r33-gts-series-1-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dragging some reo behind a ute or trailer will smooth out a dirt road, I've used reo a few times to do unsealed road maintenance when we didn't have any plant available  It's best done when the dirt is wet though, and then you just let it dry out for a day to harden up For wetting the dirt I've used some 44 gal drums in a ute or trailer, and a water pump connected to a hose with a old sprinkler tied to the reo to wet the material down whilst spreading Basically just drive slowly up and down the road a few times dragging a few sheets of reo wired together with the sprinkler wetting it all down as you go
    • I did a motokhana years ago with ??Sydney Sporting Car Club???, it was on a grassy paddock and was heaps of fun, I think it was north west Sydney IIRC The old R33 boat was covered in grass and dirt, but nothing that a good wash and detail didn't fix And thinking back, when SAU did the airstrip run in Goulburn years ago, where the old 33 won highest RWD MPH, the quickest RWD ET on the airstrip, and best paint IIRC (before the runs down the airstrip) the damage to the rear quarters from stones flicking up required them the get a respray  I would definitely do a grass motokhana again in the MX5 Who knows someone that owns a farm with a big empty paddock  Liability these days is a big issue though
    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
×
×
  • Create New...