Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst - Steering Wheel Movement With Speed - Hicas Problem?

inmaniac
 Share

Recommended Posts

inmaniac Community Regular

inmaniac

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

First time poster, so let me do the quickest intro ever and say I'm Josh, 24, from Western Sydney, just bought my first Skyline (an R32 GTST), previously a 300zx guy...

Anyway, to the point, I was wondering if I could get some help/advice. I'm thinking that my Skyline may have a problem with the HICAS or something else steering-related. My steering wheel will be perfectly straight when driving at low speeds, say <50km/h. However, once I go a bit past this, the steering wheel will start to turn counter-clockwise. In other words, instead of the 12 o'clock position on the wheel being at 12 o'clock, it has now shifted to the 11, or even 10 o'clock position (whilst still going straight ahead).

This is really uncomfortable and is quite a nuisance, especially when accelerating hard. Surely it's not normal? Can someone please give me some advice on what I should do? Will HICAS elimination fix this?

Thanks in advance.

Edited by inmaniac
  • 2 months later...
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
Posted

Well mine was fine when I bought it..

Has a HICAS lock-bar though..

Could also need a wheel alignment? :P

I've been in my friends gtst (HICAS still present) and it feels like the rear end wobbles really bad going 100-110kmh on the highway but doesn't steer off when the wheel is let go..

Wizza181 Rookie

Wizza181

Posted
Posted

I'm not 100% sure what Hicas does. But just say I'm driving in a straight line. The faster I go the steering wheel will start turning but I'm still driving straight .. Then when I'm slowing down the steering wheel will go back normal.

It's a odd feeling your steering wheel turning while your still driving dead straight under acceleration :/

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

A simple explanation of what HICAS does in a 32GTSt http://nissanskyline.6te.net/HICAS.htm

Take your vehicle to a steering and suspension shop and get them to identify and quote the issue in the front.

Not saying get any work done there. Just find out what your really dealing with first.

Edit:

I should have started off by saying have you looked at both sides up the front from underneath.

Spotted anything looking out of place. Given everything a good tug to see if anything is loose.

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • GTSBoy
      AC not coming from top vents

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • Sleepergm
      Custom titanium intake

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...