Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

I have a Brand New:

Apexi EL2 Boost Gauge Mechanical 60mm White Face For Sale: Resonable offers Considered... Goes up to 2.0Bar and has a -1.0 Vac Reading...

Apexi Silver Edition Pod Filter Brand New in box with intructions etc : Resonable offers Considered.... Largest Pod Filter Size you can get.... Bolts Str8 up to RB (turbo) Series and Z32 AFM... Dont Know About CA & SR AFMs...

Will Post Interstate at buyers Expense...

Reason For Sale: I Want A 180sx and My Rb20det R31 project never went ahead so they are sitting here in my room. Collecting Dust....

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42961-brand-new-apexi-bits-2/
Share on other sites

split the differance and make it $190 and you can have it.... im in Ringwood Area but can Drive Half Way to meet, depending on where you are...

Where Are you located??

$160 Shipped for the pod... You know the Black Versions of the Apexi Pod Filters?

its the same but its Full Chrome Metal and looks really nice...

no cod sorry...

i will try to find a pic of one....

:headspin: its all you need to bolt str8 up to the air flow meter... i have not seen this one for sale in australia b4... its up to u, doesnt bother me if you dont buy it or not ....

img505.jpg

Mounting stand not a Cup. + a long vacuum hose and also jap instruction book(wiaring diagram is on www.apexi.com) and a little wiring loom that plugs into the back of the gauge and you wire into the indicattor switch so you get Light in the Gauge At night time driving.... Definately EL2....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end a made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
    • As someone who has pineapples, and horrible axle tramp... should I change these to collars? Is that what you're saying here? Why did you choose these instead of getting pineapples where you said you had good experiences of? I'd love to even attempt to get rid of axle tramp, I either get complete bogginess or absolute insane wheelspin, anything even remotely in between results in filling-removal axle tramp, to the point where launching the car is just not something I do.
    • Lucky for that, because putting ethanol in fuel only lowers the bulk cost of fuel if it's in 91 Add it to 98, 85% of it even and it quintuples in price. Strange physics. f**k you United, Gouging c***ts.
    • Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
×
×
  • Create New...