Test If Faulty Boost Tee

[Sklyn]

Hi guys, probably/hopefully after a simple answer..

Is there a way to test if a Manual boost Tee is faulty?

I don't have a replacement one, can only replace with stock parts/solenoid.

I ask because my R33 Gtst has started to make a soft whining kind of noise when under boost.

It also now will not set under 10psi. The turbosmart Tee when wound down used to be about 5psi, now its at least 10.

I don't want to wind it up incase of damaging the turbo getting too much boost.

Apart from this everything seems to be fine.

Car only has exhaust, fmic, pod and Tee piece mods.

Thanks

[GTSBoy]

It sounds like this boost tee is faulty**. Many of these have an inbuilt relief valve (spring) type arrangement that doesn't pass any boost signal to the wastegate actuator until you reach some minimum amount of boost. Makes it come on boost faster. When you have this, with the wastegate nicely closed, the turbo will make a more satisfying high pitched noise as it is spinning up.

If that part of the valve is damaged, such that it stays shut all of the time (or even just too much and only opens a bit) then it limits the amount of boost signal that gets to the actuator too much, you either get no boost control at all (jammed shut) or too much boost with no ability to set it down.

All this assumes that there is no separate adjustment on your boost tee for this "gated" part of the control and you haven't accidentally tweaked it up.

Cheap and nasty boost tees are pretty cheap and nasty.

**this is assuming that you have made sure that the hoses connecting it to boost source and to wastegate actuator are in good condition with no leaks, splits, etc.

Edited August 6, 2013 by GTSBoy

[Sklyn]

Thanks GTSBoy.

I tested the Tee at 2 clicks up, it went to 11psi.
I then tried at 12 clicks and it went to 12psi.
I then removed the Tee and ran a line straight through, and got 9psi.

The issue is the whining noise which disappeared when i removed the Tee,
and also only a month ago I had the Tee set and boost was at 6psi as desired.

I previously had a different brand Tee and never had this issue and boost comfortably sat anywhere above 5psi.

Its a Turbosmart BC so i wouldn't call it cheap and nasty =) cost me $100 as i bought it direct from them instead of ebay.

I have asked them and this is the reply I got:

"Remove the boost tee and just run a line to the actuator to see what minimum boost is. Then, with the boost tee installed and just a couple of clicks from completely down, it should a couple more PSI.
The dial should also never be wound down in the maximum down position, it should always be a couple of clicks out."

I have now replied as at the top of this post.

Is he correct in saying that the minimum i should be able to set is 11psi??

and that whining has me wondering.......

[Sklyn]

ok, so they say the noise is normal, but it only just started.. is a bleed valve meant to whistle?

and they say my wastegate actuator is the problem. See quote below and what are your thought please?

"

After speaking with our engineers it sounds like you could have either a problem with your wastegate actuator, or a boost leak coming from elsewhere. Minimum boost that you can run is set by your wastegate actuator and even with a boost tee you can not drop below this level. So if you were running at 6psi a month ago with the tee connected, and now without the tee connected you are running at 9psi it indicates that your minimum boost level has increased. There shouldn't be an issue with the tee itself, however you should get the actuator for your wastegate tested and possibly replaced. We can make up a new actuator to suit your application if you want to go down that road, or you could possibly source a second hand part, or genuine from nissan.

Also, with the whistling noise you are hearing with the tee connected this is normal as it needs to bleed air out to the atmosphere, and this can invariably create the noise you are describing. Either that or the noise is coming from a vacuum leak elsewhere in your intake system, which would help explain you boost level problem."

What is the standard psi for a R33 Gtst series 2 wastegate actuator?

I know with the solenoid it is 5 below 4500rpm and 8 above. But what is it without the solenoid?

And is there a problem with running with no controller at all? just straight to the wastegate.

Edited August 8, 2013 by Sklyn

[Blackkers]

It sounds like your actuator. When you removed the Boost Tee completely it ran at 9psi.

It should be running wastegate pressure which is about 5psi for the RB25det actuators without the Tee or solenoid

Unless its a RB20det actuator which is about 9psi from the factory and is a common swap in the RB25det models. Have you ever run it without the Tee? Before you had problems that is.

Never a problem running without a controller at all, personally I'd rather purchase a new actuator over trusting a manual boost controller

Edited August 8, 2013 by Blackkers

[GTSBoy]

The wastegate actuator is 5 psi. With the solenoid in the position that keeps the (inbuilt) bleed closed, you get only wastegate actuator pressure. That's 5 psi. With the solenoid in the other position, it opens a little leak, you get 8 psi, because not all of the boost signal gets to the actuator.

The way the stock solenoid increases boost above the actuator's own setting is in fact no different to the way a boost tee does. It leaks some boost out before a restriction. The boost signal on the other side of the restriction becomes less, and the wastegate opens less.

You may see more boost than an actuator is "set" for with improved exhaust or inlet restriction. That's just par for the course. So seeing 6 psi when it's supposed to be 5 psi is not uncommon.

No controller at all is fine. It will be a little slow because you only get minimum boost.

I still say you need to check for splits or other leaks in your boost signal hoses. These will raise your boost.

It should not have been possible to get <9 psi out of a 9 psi actuator, so I wouldn't think there was too much chance you had an RB20 actuator on there.

Maybe you had best take a video of the car so we can hear the whistle.

cheers

[Sklyn]

cheers guys.

I have never run without a bleed before. Only used the stock solenoid before installing the Tee. It ran as per normal then.

i saw a thread somewhere showing the difference between the R32 and R33 actuator, but can't remember which was which..

The nipple for the hose points towards the front of the car, as opposed to straight up. (i think i have the 33 one?)

by boost 'signal' hose, are you just referring to the line from the intercooler piping to the wastegate? Or other lines included?

If only the 1 then i checked for splits when removed and found nothing and have replaced with a new line without the Tee at the moment.

So, is there a simple way to test if the actuator is on its way out? Do they simply bolt off the turbo or is it a bit more difficult to replace?

Anyone in Adelaide have a pressure tester (and whatever tools needed) to give me a hand to search for leaks? =) Can offer beers, dinner or cash =)

[Got a Pulsar]

R33 Actuator


R32 Actuator


2 bolts holds it on and a Cir Clip holds the arm on the wastegate flap pin thing.

I recently tested an actuator with a car pump with a gauge on it.
Put the hose on the nipple, pump the pump, watch the gauge. The arm should be at full extension at the rated psi.
Guess you can probably use the same technique to test a Boost T??? I'll try it.***

Get an R32 Actuator and bolt it on. 10psi Boost all day long. Very little that can go wrong.

Sounds like the lyrics to an Eminem song.

Edit*** Tried it, seems to work. Car hand pump > Boost T > Actuator.

Tightening the T definately made the Actuator move at a higher psi.

(T in a boost gauge if the pump has none. Might be more accurate too.)

[Sklyn]

Love ya work Rob! Thanks.

def got the 33 one in there.

Don't need the 32 got 9psi all day as it is !! =P

So any idea why/if its normal for an actuator to seem to function ok, just at a higher psi?

What happens when it completely dies? do i risk pumping too much boost into the turbo and blowing it?

Or is the actuator likely to be ok for quite a while yet?

Anyone got an R32 actuator they can sell? or trade for a Turbosmart Tee..

[Got a Pulsar]

I guess the actuator could die as I believe they have a diaphragm inside that could get a hole or split, (that's how unwanted pregnancies happen too) so it would take more psi to push it open, but if it tears completely, it wouldn't work at all. Meaning, Infinite boost and blown turbo...

I guess you have stock turbo? BOOM !!!

Richard got a High Flow on his 34 recently and using the 5psi actuator he was getting 11-12psi. Stock turbo was stock boost with the same actuator...

I might be able to persuade him to sell you the 10psi actuator I sold him.

Edit* I have a spare... I'll sell it to you and buy back from Richard!

PM me.

[Sklyn]

yep figured as much, me no likey boom boom turbo

Found one already actually, hope to pick it up tomorrow.

Will i need to remove anything else to swap them over or can i just squeeze in and switch them?

[Got a Pulsar]

Wow you work fast! LOL!!

Swap them over, DON'T Reconnect the Solenoid at all !!!

Hose from cooler pipe to actuator and block the hose that went from the solenoid to the BOV return pipe. (you have blocked this already yes???)

That is all.

[Sklyn]

perfect timing, must have been an omen. One just happened to pop up in the for sale thread.

Won't be touching the solenoid and yes the other pipe is nicely blocked.

Guess I have my task for tomorrow sorted =)

Cheers

[Got a Pulsar]

It's easy though it can be fiddly but it's well worth it. Maybe put hose clamps or zip ties on to hold the hose tight and Don't lose the Cir clip!

Enjoy.