Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am just about to install ID1000 injectors in my RB26DETT.

I read on the homepage of the manufacturer that all ID injectors are high impedance.

However the standard RB26 injectors are low impedance and the GT-R has a resistor ballast installed as the stock ECU is working natively with a high impendance signal. Do I therefore need to bypass this resistor ballast? I am using a Power FC ecu...

Thanks!

All of them.

Thats obvious, but which Pins exactly have to be connected to each other?

Edit: Just checked the circuit plan and now it makes all sense. All seven wires have to be connected with each other, I better get a strong soldering iron then. :)

Edited by Behind Horizon
  • 1 month later...

google is your friend...

make SURE you soldier it up, i was lazy and thought i would get to it later, but i did not end up doing it then one of the injectors would lose connection every now and then causing one cyl to turn off sometimes.....

https://www.google.ae/search?q=rb26+resister+pack&oq=rb26+resister+pack&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j0l3.4275j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

just cut the wires and bunch them ALL up and pour a crapload of soldier over it and tape it up and remove the resister pack from the engine bay as its not needed anymore.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok I'm going to do this soon with new ID2000's

I see the resistor ballast thing has a harness connector, can you just disconnect it and remove the resistor all together and it will work ?

If not which wires do I need to cut and join? I'm guessing the ones that stay in the car then once that's done remove the resistor ballast?

Anyone got pics of what to cut and join?

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...