Jump to content
SAU Community

Chassis Damage.. Bugger

ZRBE

By ZRBE,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

blue_vl_t Rising Star

blue_vl_t

Posted
Posted

Looks like its on the road to recovery, don't stress, I've done similar things in my time, as have lots of people.

Weld the metal where it's meant to be, then lay skids or go racing or whatever floats your boat and enjoy the car for the purpose you bought it.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GTR-N1
GTR-N1

Imagine - you'll be a wealth of knowledge for others here (and elsewhere) after this! And you aren't the only person who's had to learn the hard way > But at least you're a quick learner!

blue_vl_t
blue_vl_t

Looks like its on the road to recovery, don't stress, I've done similar things in my time, as have lots of people. Weld the metal where it's meant to be, then lay skids or go racing or whatever float

ZRBE
ZRBE

Well it's not going to be for a while, if ever.. But I'll be letting you know ahaha

Posted Images

mill-180 Enthusiast

mill-180

Posted
Posted

Mate, I would be looking at reshelling completely., but it depends on you as to what kind of access you have to the right tools, skills and $$ to get this shell 100% again.

I personally would rather spend the time on sourcing out another shell and transferring the drive line over rather than worry about getting the chassis 100%

colourclassic Mentor

colourclassic

Posted
Posted (edited)

No need to reshell - he's doing a great job keeping another Skyline out of the scrap yard. I say keep working on it dude, you seem to have a good grasp on how to fix it up, and I'm sure if you keep at it you'll have a straight and clean example.

Edited by colourclassic
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

you have some thinking to do

  • Purchase price - spend remaining
  • Yours and others Effort to remedy
  • Future purpose of vehicle - Track or Road
  • Dedication and persistence to complete
  • Timeframe to remedy
  • Best outcome
  • End value of vehicle

Personally, I'd buy a $6k replacement and swap some parts over then sell remaining bits

Edited by Sinista32
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah I was thinking of buying another shell... I will be taking to a guy in September to have a look at the chassis for me and I'll go on from there..

This car will be street only, I say that only because I have never been to any track days and just wouldn't know.

I have a escort RS2000 sitting in the shed that is mine! :D

So I'm starting to toss up between this & the 32.. Or both :/

But now I really want to get a GTR shell (R32) and start throwing money at that instead of this gtst.

And yes, colourclassic, I don't want to see another one go to the scrap yard either. :(

But for now I'm still buying random parts for the gtst when I see them pop up on this forum, I have a bad habit of hoarding, especially with cars, no matter how crappy they are I want to keep them lol..

Oh well, we will see what happens. Cheers for input and replies guys :)

EDIT: any ideas on how much difference there is between a good, clean & rolling shell is for a 32 gtr & gtst? (Price wise)

Edited by Zrobe
Frosty Grand Master

Frosty

Posted
Posted

Yeah I was thinking of buying another shell... I will be taking to a guy in September to have a look at the chassis for me and I'll go on from there..

This car will be street only, I say that only because I have never been to any track days and just wouldn't know.

I have a escort RS2000 sitting in the shed that is mine! :D

So I'm starting to toss up between this & the 32.. Or both :/

But now I really want to get a GTR shell (R32) and start throwing money at that instead of this gtst.

And yes, colourclassic, I don't want to see another one go to the scrap yard either. :(

But for now I'm still buying random parts for the gtst when I see them pop up on this forum, I have a bad habit of hoarding, especially with cars, no matter how crappy they are I want to keep them lol..

Oh well, we will see what happens. Cheers for input and replies guys :)

EDIT: any ideas on how much difference there is between a good, clean & rolling shell is for a 32 gtr & gtst? (Price wise)

how long is a pce of string? People seem to be asking ALOT of money for GTS shells or even complete these days when they are not worth it....Im sure if you shop around you could find one.

could always sell you mine...

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

how long is a pce of string? People seem to be asking ALOT of money for GTS shells or even complete these days when they are not worth it....Im sure if you shop around you could find one.

could always sell you mine...

Well it's not going to be for a while, if ever.. But I'll be letting you know ahaha

  • Like 1
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

Youve gone this far with the car so you might as well finish it off. . Even the youngest of the r32s are now twenty years old, finding a straight /undamaged shell will be difficult at best

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I'll post some pics up tomorrow guys.

I need some help getting some good HD pictures of the rear guards on an R32 gtst so I can get the shape right mainly the corners or the wheel well

If anyone could help me out that would be great..

Cheers :)

EDIT: WITHOUT side skirts and rear pods.

Edited by Zrobe
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay some more pics of what we (my pop) has done :P

Sheet metal off an old racing Cortina. Hehe.

image-42.jpg

Bent around into shape and welds grinded off

image-43.jpg

....This is what I was doing whilst pop was grinding and welding away, fun times..

image-44.jpg

That is all for now. :)

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

How hard was it to pull all the dash out like? I was thinking of doing it to mine just to tidy everything up. How long did it take you to get it to that point?

I followed a quick guide on skyline owners forum..

But didn't remove EVERYTHING that was stated. Only because I didn't need to.

Only took me about an hour, maybe less..

Fun part will be putting the new bits and pieces in next weekend.

But ALOT easier that I thought it would be

Didn't drop the steering column either.

Edited by ZRBE
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169913

There you go, scuff plates and pillars I left on, also didn't drop steering column but would make it a bit easier.

Edited by ZRBE
ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

image-47.jpg

All done with new cluster surround and dash, a lot easier than I though it was. Only problem was the glovebox, but I didn't see the bit above it that had to click onto the stock strut bar..

Glad it's over though.

Started her up and my oil pressure guage now works? Cool. Haha (never used to)

EDIT: Oh! And new vents ;)

Edited by ZRBE
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I'm taking a guess here, is this a T2 flange? :/

image-49.jpg

Need to weld my that BOV and a nipple to my cooler pipe.

Didn't even think about the adaptor plate I needed...

That's a massive no on the t2 flange mate. A quick Google search would confirm that quicker than posting a question. Any fabrication place could knock one up for you easy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...