Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would be avoiding flaring if possiible as it look like aids..

Have you tried a thorough roll and a good pull first?

how much camber are you running and what is the max you are willing to run?

Are you going to have any guard gap or do you wanto tuck rim?

How wide are the wheels and what tires size/ profile?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6959963
Share on other sites

Yes its terrible unless they are fully pumped, thats expensive as im not a panel beater

Well on the front, i was thinking of buying wide guards, easy fix right?

i havent tried anything yet, thats my first trial fit i dont even have tyres

And the rear... um... i wanted wide rubber, but ill have to see what i can do.

camber is stock i think, or close too.

would like a gap, but you need room for suspension travel too so????

the wheels are rays gtc 17x9 +35 on a 32 gtst

Bolt ons will be too wide, and im not having a piece of fibreglass glued to my body cos they crack.

so maybe gtr rear guards welded on,$$$$ hmmmm i need a plan d

after looking at google images, bolt ons for some reason seem the least offensive looking

maybe because like you said, others looks like aids

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6959993
Share on other sites

I just fitted wheels that sit out 15mm wider per side on my r33 18 x 9 + 20 and i REDUCED my camber thst was induced by lowering the car and i dont scrub.

If you cant roll guards yourself plenty on hear can or pay a shop $50 a corner to roll them you wont scrub.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960157
Share on other sites

for example, i dont mind this

attachicon.gif840B793D-E59F-43CA-B235-17B5C281CBD2-312-000000203F04B648_zpsec1c6a39.jpg

your right pete.. and i have adjustable upper front and rear arms & traction rods.

^^

That looks like it has aids. It's a Skyline not a Torana.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960208
Share on other sites

Ok ok.. youre right, and it wont suit what im going to do this summer. :ninja:

Ok so thanks for the input, good points made:

1 Flares, lips ect look sht on a 32

2 Camber will change as i put weight on the wheels

So ill try flattening the lip first and see how that goes. Adjust camber second, roll guards out last resort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960361
Share on other sites

I dont know

Theres heaps of room inside

I may do the front first, then put it on the back and see how much more i can go

Hmmm where to start?

9" = 228mm from inside bead

250mm from outside edge of rim

So i want at least a 255 on the back if i can, more even better.

And dont want less than......235 maybe front.

Profile should be at least 40, or diameter is too small.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6960950
Share on other sites

Making a lipping / guard flaring tool.

It will have adjustable length and angle.

When i have finished using it, it will be for SAU act. That means anyone can have it just dont take it away from ACT region.

post-89755-0-64877900-1376036302_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429896-guard-flaring/#findComment-6963134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...