1994 R32 Gtr - Stock To ~320Kw.

[Ambi3nce]

Hey guys,

New GTR owner here, last month purchased a stock other than a no name cat back exhaust. 97K's, you can see the boost restrictor line is still attached, OEM head unit was in it when I picked it up also.

The Plan:

I want to aim for 300-320Kw, it is my daily driver 1 of every three weeks so with that in mind my criteria is as follows:

-Usable power with responsive turbos

-No ridiculously heavy clutch

-Stock looking as possible engine bay

So far I have Work Meister S1R's 18x10 +12 all round ordered and will be here in about 10 weeks, so until then I am going to collect parts.

My buy list for the first round of mods (not aiming for 300kw until after turbo swap)

-Blitz ZZ-R or BC-BR Coilovers (prefer Blitz)

-Tyres (undecided)

-High flow panel filter and remove the snorkel restriction in stock airbox.

-Blitz front pipe and high flow cat (still has the compliance cat which is killing it)

-Right hand door surround as current one has a small tear.

-Get it on a Dyno before I do anything and see where it stands/replace anything that might need replacing.

Once these are all in I will start chasing the power I am after, here is where I am less sure of part choices, so any input would be great.

-7/9's turbos (the cheaps option is r33 reconditioned turbos with n1 internals)

-Stand alone ECU, still getting opinions on which one to roll with here, would like to use something that can switch between E85/98 easily, the fuel pump and injector choice will also reflect this.

-Injectors + Fuel pump with future E85 in mind

-Tomei/R34 dump pipes

-Blitz cat back exhaust (replace the one on now to match front pipes)

-Boost controller preferably as part of the ECU so this will also effect chip choice.

-Cam Gears

-Port the standard manifold.

-Either heavy duty clutch or Nismo coppermix twin plate + lightened fly wheel.

Thats about where I am at currently, the ECU's I am looking at are Haltech PS2000 and Adaptronic Select, any advice on either of these appreciated.

A few quick questions :

-Will I need to replace coil packs?

-If I stick to map tuned ECU's such as above AFM's will not be required right?

-Will a heavy duty clutch be fine for these power levels or will a twin be needed?

-If I have missed anything please let me know

-Will the reconditioned turbos with r34 n1 internals perform similar to the dash 7's? As my understanding is the 7's/34n1's are almost identical.

Now for a few pictures

Can see boost restrictor and stock plenum still has 95% paint.

Thanks guys any help is appreciated

[Reese69]

any reason why your thinking the ps2000 and not the platinum pro plug in + eflex sensor kit - (and yes AFM will be gone) i was glad i got rid of mine -

[34GeeTeeTee]

Looks like a nice clean base to start with!

[Sinista32]

On the right track

To answer your questions. Yes, Yes and Yes

Recoed N1 Turbos -tick

Perhaps an aftermarket radiator.

Although a 94 model you may still wish to change the oil pump.

Nice looking GTR

[Mohsen]

+1 CHANGE THE PUMP!

Mine had a hairline crack... ticking time bomb.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Once these are all in I will start chasing the power I am after, here is where I am less sure of part choices, so any input would be great.

-7/9's turbos (the cheaps option is r33 reconditioned turbos with n1 internals)

Don't waste your time on R33 N1 turbo's.

"Laggy" / Old technology.

Go the Garrett -7 / -9.

Both are Ball Bearing and have Steel Internal Cores.

-9's will give you slightly more top end.

If you are aiming for 320 rwkW', from memory, -7's max out at about 330 rwkW's... Or go the -9's for the slightly more top end if wanted.

From memory -9's max out at about 350 rwkW's.

-Stand alone ECU, still getting opinions on which one to roll with here, would like to use something that can switch between E85/98 easily, the fuel pump and injector choice will also reflect this.

Go for a Nistune or an APexi Power FC for further tunability.

Or whatever your mechanic / tuner is good at / knows what.

-Injectors + Fuel pump with future E85 in mind

-Tomei/R34 dump pipes

-Blitz cat back exhaust (replace the one on now to match front pipes)

-Boost controller preferably as part of the ECU so this will also effect chip choice.

-Cam Gears

All good!

-Port the standard manifold.

No need.

-Either heavy duty clutch or Nismo coppermix twin plate + lightened fly wheel.

And Excedy Single Heavy Duty will do you fine.

I hear good review on the Nismo Coppermix Twin Plates.

So either one will be good.

Thats about where I am at currently, the ECU's I am looking at are Haltech PS2000 and Adaptronic Select, any advice on either of these appreciated.

Whatever your mechanic / tuner is good at / knows what.

If they are good at Haltech / Adaptronic, then use it.

A few quick questions :

-Will I need to replace coil packs?

Only if they need replacing.

-If I stick to map tuned ECU's such as above AFM's will not be required right?

I think that's correct...

-Will a heavy duty clutch be fine for these power levels or will a twin be needed?

A Single Heavy Duty will be fine for 320 rwkW's.

-Will the reconditioned turbos with r34 n1 internals perform similar to the dash 7's? As my understanding is the 7's/34n1's are almost identical.

R34 GTR N1 Turbos = Garrett -7's.

There are variations in the Compressor Housing / Compressor Wheel but the Measurement Specs are all the same.

Don't risk it with 2nd hand Turbo's Just buy a new set of 2.

Worst case scenario, you want to save the few hundred dollars by buying 2nd Turbo's, you can end up with an engine build of $10K+.

[Ambi3nce]

any reason why your thinking the ps2000 and not the platinum pro plug in + eflex sensor kit - (and yes AFM will be gone) i was glad i got rid of mine -

This was just what I was recommended, I am not very familiar with ECU's other than that power fc seems to be the standard choice, but is ageing and want a bit more flexibility in the future.

Looks like a nice clean base to start with!

Thanks man, yeah that is what drew me to it in the first place.

On the right track

To answer your questions. Yes, Yes and Yes

Recoed N1 Turbos -tick

Perhaps an aftermarket radiator.

Although a 94 model you may still wish to change the oil pump.

Nice looking GTR

The only difference in pump is the drive shaft is sturdier from 94 R32's compared to the older ones, but this doesn't help me with changing billet wheels which others have recommended, If I do that I will put either a new OEM pump or nismo/n1 etc.

Thanks for the advice, and as someone mentioned earlier which I overlooked, R33 N1 turbos are horrible so not the same as the R34 N1's which I am not considering anymore

+1 CHANGE THE PUMP!

Mine had a hairline crack... ticking time bomb.

Too easy will do

Don't waste your time on R33 N1 turbo's.

"Laggy" / Old technology.

Go the Garrett -7 / -9.

Both are Ball Bearing and have Steel Internal Cores.

-9's will give you slightly more top end.

If you are aiming for 320 rwkW', from memory, -7's max out at about 330 rwkW's... Or go the -9's for the slightly more top end if wanted.

From memory -9's max out at about 350 rwkW's.

Go for a Nistune or an APexi Power FC for further tunability.

Or whatever your mechanic / tuner is good at / knows what.

All good!

No need.

And Excedy Single Heavy Duty will do you fine.

I hear good review on the Nismo Coppermix Twin Plates.

So either one will be good.

Whatever your mechanic / tuner is good at / knows what.

If they are good at Haltech / Adaptronic, then use it.

Only if they need replacing.

I think that's correct...

A Single Heavy Duty will be fine for 320 rwkW's.

R34 GTR N1 Turbos = Garrett -7's.

There are variations in the Compressor Housing / Compressor Wheel but the Measurement Specs are all the same.

Don't risk it with 2nd hand Turbo's Just buy a new set of 2.

Worst case scenario, you want to save the few hundred dollars by buying 2nd Turbo's, you can end up with an engine build of $10K+.

Thanks for advice, will go new 7's/9's, and clutch choice will come down to what I have left in the budget then, would like to go the coppermix ideally because has lightened flywheel assembly etc, but if a single plate heavy duty will be fine that might be my first port of call.

Thanks everyone some great advice here. The only areas I am still a little unsure of are injectors/ecu which I will figure out depending which ECU I go with and which tuner I decide to use.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Thanks for advice, will go new 7's/9's, and clutch choice will come down to what I have left in the budget then, would like to go the coppermix ideally because has lightened flywheel assembly etc, but if a single plate heavy duty will be fine that might be my first port of call.

Sounds good!

Thanks everyone some great advice here. The only areas I am still a little unsure of are injectors/ecu which I will figure out depending which ECU I go with and which tuner I decide to use.

The stock injectors max out at about 310 rwkW's, if your lucky, 315 rwkW's.

If you aim is 320 rwkW's you will need a new / aftermarket set.

[Reese69]

talk to tuner first then go from there - haltech is good regular updates located in australia and have been nothing but helpful - but comes down to your tuner.

[Ambi3nce]

Sounds good!

The stock injectors max out at about 310 rwkW's, if your lucky, 315 rwkW's.

If you aim is 320 rwkW's you will need a new / aftermarket set.

Well then it will be much easier to not touch fuel system and get what I can out of the mods already mentioned, then later on will swap it out and chase the extra 20-30kw

talk to tuner first then go from there - haltech is good regular updates located in australia and have been nothing but helpful - but comes down to your tuner.

Good advice, from what I have heard the ecu choice is most important to go with what the tuner is comfortable working with

[XGTRX]

The first thing I would be doing is making sure the engine is bullet proof for the power. Oil pump! $2k today will save you $10k tomorrow.

[gtr jet]

If you plan on going E85 then I'd be throwing in some id1000's and a bigger fuel pump but if you want to stick to 98 then the standard stuff should be fine. You should be able to make a bit over 300rwkw on 98.

I have all the basics and am making 325rwkw. Power FC, E85, id1000's, walbro 400, -7's, 3" exhaust.

[RBN1]

Out of curiosity, this on a unopened engine?

I ask as I'm curious to see how many people are getting reasonable K's out of their 19+ year old engines before the inevitable happens.

If you plan on going E85 then I'd be throwing in some id1000's and a bigger fuel pump but if you want to stick to 98 then the standard stuff should be fine. You should be able to make a bit over 300rwkw on 98.

I have all the basics and am making 325rwkw. Power FC, E85, id1000's, walbro 400, -7's, 3" exhaust.

[gtr jet]

Nah mate, built motor. The 1st one popped after a couple of donuts.

Learnt my lesson there when I was younger.

[Ambi3nce]

The first thing I would be doing is making sure the engine is bullet proof for the power. Oil pump! $2k today will save you $10k tomorrow.

This seems to be a reoccuring piece of advice, one I will definitely use.

If you plan on going E85 then I'd be throwing in some id1000's and a bigger fuel pump but if you want to stick to 98 then the standard stuff should be fine. You should be able to make a bit over 300rwkw on 98.

I have all the basics and am making 325rwkw. Power FC, E85, id1000's, walbro 400, -7's, 3" exhaust.

Sounds like this will be the go for the final 300-330ish, will probably do that after turbos etc.

Out of curiosity, this on a unopened engine?

I ask as I'm curious to see how many people are getting reasonable K's out of their 19+ year old engines before the inevitable happens.

Mine is unopened, I don't intend to push power anywhere near the point where standard internals start to be at risk, sound like a plan that will hold up?

Assuming I do the basics, make sure oil pump is good, cooling etc and harmonic balancer, standard internals should be fairly safe with the setup mentioned?

[XGTRX]

Just remember...There is standard internals and then there is 20 year old standard internals...big difference.

[RBN1]

Hi mate,

it's always going to be a roll of the dice with these cars when approaching 300rwkw. They're just at the age where it's only a matter of time. Make sure you've got a rebuild factored in, you look to have a great base to start off with.

This seems to be a reoccuring piece of advice, one I will definitely use.

Sounds like this will be the go for the final 300-330ish, will probably do that after turbos etc.

Mine is unopened, I don't intend to push power anywhere near the point where standard internals start to be at risk, sound like a plan that will hold up?

Assuming I do the basics, make sure oil pump is good, cooling etc and harmonic balancer, standard internals should be fairly safe with the setup mentioned?

[Ambi3nce]

Just remember...There is standard internals and then there is 20 year old standard internals...big difference.

Good point, what do you guys recommend best way to ascertain the health of the internals, comp and bleed down tests an accurate measure? Anything else I can have done while mods go in to give me a better idea of where I am at?

Hi mate,

it's always going to be a roll of the dice with these cars when approaching 300rwkw. They're just at the age where it's only a matter of time. Make sure you've got a rebuild factored in, you look to have a great base to start off with.

Copy that, I am hoping can get a bit of time between mods to rebuild to address the funds situation, murphy's law however is never so kind haha

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Well then it will be much easier to not touch fuel system and get what I can out of the mods already mentioned, then later on will swap it out and chase the extra 20-30kw

Good advice, from what I have heard the ecu choice is most important to go with what the tuner is comfortable working with

+1

The first thing I would be doing is making sure the engine is bullet proof for the power. Oil pump! $2k today will save you $10k tomorrow.

If you plan on going E85 then I'd be throwing in some id1000's and a bigger fuel pump but if you want to stick to 98 then the standard stuff should be fine. You should be able to make a bit over 300rwkw on 98.

I have all the basics and am making 325rwkw. Power FC, E85, id1000's, walbro 400, -7's, 3" exhaust.

Just remember...There is standard internals and then there is 20 year old standard internals...big difference.

^^ Take note to all of the above

Good point, what do you guys recommend best way to ascertain the health of the internals, comp and bleed down tests an accurate measure? Anything else I can have done while mods go in to give me a better idea of where I am at?

Do the comp and bleed down test to see how it is and that will tell how far you can push it.

Not to put a downer on the situation and what you want to achieve but a 19 year old stock RB26, I would not push over 300 rwkW's if you want it to last.

[RBN1]

Couldn't agree more with the below (and even then)

But a 19 year old stock RB26, I would not push over 300 rwkW's if you want it to last.