1994 R32 Gtr - Stock To ~320Kw.

[Ambi3nce]

+1

^^ Take note to all of the above

Do the comp and bleed down test to see how it is and that will tell how far you can push it.

Not to put a downer on the situation and what you want to achieve but a 19 year old stock RB26, I would not push over 300 rwkW's if you want it to last.

Thanks alot man, its not a downer at all, I just assumed that was about the ballpark for stock internals safe, if that number is closer to 300 then I am more than happy to aim for that until I am prepared to go the next step.

Couldn't agree more with the below (and even then)

You guys have all been very helpful, appreciate it

[XGTRX]

Honestly, leave it as is until your ready. Find a workshop the specializes in rbs and have a long and good reputation. Then get them to have a look at the tune to make sure it's in order.

If you want 300 then -7 or 9s as mentioned and NEW stock engine rebuild. $10k should be enough. But then if you want to push it to 350 then spend an extra $5-7k and you will have a bullet proof setup at that power level. Remember if you want to track it tell your builder.

One very nice car by the way...don't kill it with high revs if it's 20 year old stock motor

[trustr32]

Nice car man looks like a very tidy platform to start with.

I would still gather all the parts you are thinking about because they are all stuff that can be used now and then go onto your new built engine if/when that happens but like everyone's saying I would definitely think about keeping the power below 300 if you want to give the engine as much chance of survival as possible and I'm sure once you install the mods and it starts making double the power it has now you'll love life no matter what the power figure is. When I bought my GTR I test drove about half a dozen stock ones with just cat backs and then drove mine (found out later it had a chipped ECU) but cant have been much more than 200 or so at the wheels and man it's a hell of a difference.

Anyway good luck and can't wait to see the progress.

[Ambi3nce]

Honestly, leave it as is until your ready. Find a workshop the specializes in rbs and have a long and good reputation. Then get them to have a look at the tune to make sure it's in order.

If you want 300 then -7 or 9s as mentioned and NEW stock engine rebuild. $10k should be enough. But then if you want to push it to 350 then spend an extra $5-7k and you will have a bullet proof setup at that power level. Remember if you want to track it tell your builder.

One very nice car by the way...don't kill it with high revs if it's 20 year old stock motor

Will keep this in mind when coming up with a plan of attack with a tuner, if I was going to rebuild right off the bat, would it not be better to do some forged work or upgrades to internals, although this is what I assume you mean by spending extra to make it bullet proof.

Nice car man looks like a very tidy platform to start with.

I would still gather all the parts you are thinking about because they are all stuff that can be used now and then go onto your new built engine if/when that happens but like everyone's saying I would definitely think about keeping the power below 300 if you want to give the engine as much chance of survival as possible and I'm sure once you install the mods and it starts making double the power it has now you'll love life no matter what the power figure is. When I bought my GTR I test drove about half a dozen stock ones with just cat backs and then drove mine (found out later it had a chipped ECU) but cant have been much more than 200 or so at the wheels and man it's a hell of a difference.

Anyway good luck and can't wait to see the progress.

Having never driven a modded GTR with that in mind, what do you think of just doing a good ECU that I will not have to upgrade later, getting a good tune and running a little more psi to and nothing else while I work out the next step. Should keep me well entertained while I get coilovers/wheels/exhaust all sorted and start planning the next step and assessing the health of the internals,

That alone should yield a noticeable difference?

Edited August 9, 2013 by Ambi3nce

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Will keep this in mind when coming up with a plan of attack with a tuner, if I was going to rebuild right off the bat, would it not be better to do some forged work or upgrades to internals, although this is what I assume you mean by spending extra to make it bullet proof.

I think that's what he means....

When you rebuild the engine, you would go straight for a set of Forged Pistons / Con Rods.

Along with all new Crank Shaft / Bearings / Piston Rings etc.

[trustr32]

Having never driven a modded GTR with that in mind, what do you think of just doing a good ECU that I will not have to upgrade later, getting a good tune and running a little more psi to and nothing else while I work out the next step. Should keep me well entertained while I get coilovers/wheels/exhaust all sorted and start planning the next step and assessing the health of the internals,

That alone should yield a noticeable difference?

I would probably wait to get new turbo's before doing anything with the boost last thing you want is those stock wheels exploding.

If you've got the money for your 'First' round of mods I would get all your bolt on upgrades ie. turbo's, ecu, exhaust, and get it tuned. Put some suspension in (go into what sort later) new tyres to suit your rims, HICAS lockout bar and then enjoy while you save some more cash. You'll end up with decent power, minimal outlay and parts you can always use after a rebuild.

The last thing your going to want is to have a stock GTR then go straight to your maximum power output. You'll love it for a few months then get bored with the power and end up wanting to change turbo's or something silly. It's more fun when you go from stock to 230-250kw which will seem like a ball tearer drive that for a year while you save then get the motor done and up the power to your goal of 300+. Humans are pretty shit for getting bored with stuff quickly this way you get the fun of upgrading twice over without having to buy everything twice.

And on a side note yeah he means basic rebuild with upgraded internals. That's what I got with mine basic rebuild with Forged pistons/rods, new bearings, gaskets, seals, new oil pump (already had the longer crank which so should yours) and Hi-Octane sump extension.

Knowing what I know now I would have taken it to a decent mechanic who knows RB's given him the cash and said give it back to me rebuilt and running lol.

[Ambi3nce]

I would probably wait to get new turbo's before doing anything with the boost last thing you want is those stock wheels exploding.

If you've got the money for your 'First' round of mods I would get all your bolt on upgrades ie. turbo's, ecu, exhaust, and get it tuned. Put some suspension in (go into what sort later) new tyres to suit your rims, HICAS lockout bar and then enjoy while you save some more cash. You'll end up with decent power, minimal outlay and parts you can always use after a rebuild.

The last thing your going to want is to have a stock GTR then go straight to your maximum power output. You'll love it for a few months then get bored with the power and end up wanting to change turbo's or something silly. It's more fun when you go from stock to 230-250kw which will seem like a ball tearer drive that for a year while you save then get the motor done and up the power to your goal of 300+. Humans are pretty shit for getting bored with stuff quickly this way you get the fun of upgrading twice over without having to buy everything twice.

And on a side note yeah he means basic rebuild with upgraded internals. That's what I got with mine basic rebuild with Forged pistons/rods, new bearings, gaskets, seals, new oil pump (already had the longer crank which so should yours) and Hi-Octane sump extension.

Knowing what I know now I would have taken it to a decent mechanic who knows RB's given him the cash and said give it back to me rebuilt and running lol.

Sounds like exactly what I am chasing, doing it that way gives me a good window of time between a good performance upgrade and then final goal which is where it will get really expensive.

[SiR_RB]

Do comp test

If motor is healthy ild still take it out drop the stump put reimax billet oil pump gears and new bearings for security, and sump baffles ,........never ends really lol

[XKLABA]

Do comp test

If motor is healthy i'd still take it out drop the sump put Reimax billet oil pump gears and new bearings for security, and sump baffles ,........never ends really lol

this, it is easier to take motor out to change turbos so while it's out do this /\ /\ and this \/ \/

-9s( port match manifold to turbos)

cam gears - stock cams

injectors( for that power ID1000s are plenty)

Nismo FPR

Walbro intank

twin plate clutch, i use and recommend the Excedy twin, any single plate in a GTR with that power is never going to have a long happy life

stock radiator is fine as long as it's clean and in good order

stock R32 intercooler is also fine

ECU is tuner pref, find a tuner that you see eye to eye with then ask what he prefers to tune or thinks will work best with your setup

R32 GTR dump pipes are CRAP, 33 and 34s are much better, find a good set of dumps the match front pipes that end in 3.5" then 3.5" cat ( the Venom one has 5" body which flows really good ) and a good 3.5" catback if you can find one without any restrictions otherwise a local custom one will give good results

factory internals are fine up to 22psi/350rwkws if tuned properly IMO, especially on E85, engine longevity comes down to driver more then power

I've always liked GTRs in white doesn't matter which model they all look good in it just wish I had of brought a white 32 instead of my black one

[XGTRX]

factory internals are fine up to 22psi/350rwkws if tuned properly IMO, especially on E85, engine longevity comes down to driver more then power

New factory internals maybe but 20 year old factory internals no way. If he does what you say he better be financially ready for a rebuild plus another set of turbos. Wrong way to do it and expensive. If he wants that power then he needs to build a proper engine.

[trustr32]

^+1

[SimonR32]

New factory internals maybe but 20 year old factory internals no way. If he does what you say he better be financially ready for a rebuild plus another set of turbos. Wrong way to do it and expensive. If he wants that power then he needs to build a proper engine.

My 22 year old standard internals seem fairly happy running 450rwkw...

[RBN1]

Was just waiting for someone to come out and say but I've run 1000rwkw etc etc and my standard engine is still going strong

Fair enough but how long you been running 450rwkw for?

My 22 year old standard internals seem fairly happy running 450rwkw...

[trustr32]

I don't think anyone is questioning whether it can be done because it has been many times over. I think the point we're trying to make is that he should go the safe approach make some decent power and have a bit of fun and THEN when he has the money ready for a rebuild turn up the boost and see how long before she goes bang. Might surprise him and run forever in which case he'll be up $10k+ but it could die 2 days later and then he's up for a rebuild. Imagine how happy he would be if he did that straight off the bat and it blows and can't afford the rebuild for 6 months. I'm sure "but the guys on SAU said it should be right" would be said once or twice.

[RBN1]

^^^

+1

[djr81]

^^^

-1

I ran a stock internal to 450rwhp for years. Tracked it, hillclimbed it, drove it on the road. It was fine. Then I had it rebuilt and it all turned to custard.

If you can live with it off the road for 6 months then just use it up with the stock internals.

[SimonR32]

Was just waiting for someone to come out and say but I've run 1000rwkw etc etc and my standard engine is still going strong

Fair enough but how long you been running 450rwkw for?

Coming up a year now... of hard motorsport as well, not street duties (and that's not mentioning that it came from Japan with a T88 and had been that way for at least 10 years)

Either way think about why RB26's with 320rwkw die (assuming the tune is good, on E85 even safer)...

Pistons = Fine

Rods = Fine

Crank = Fine

Block = Fine

Bearings = Will die without pump, sump and balancer (otherwise Fine)

Head and Head Gasket = Fine

Value guides = Lotto, they die at stock power, they die at big power... Roll your dice

Fix the issues and you should have nice reliable motoring. If not you can always replace with a nice low km R34 motor for less than half a rebuild

Edited August 12, 2013 by SimonR32

[Ambi3nce]

Coming up a year now... of hard motorsport as well, not street duties (and that's not mentioning that it came from Japan with a T88 and had been that way for at least 10 years)

Either way think about why RB26's with 320rwkw die (assuming the tune is good, on E85 even safer)...

Pistons = Fine

Rods = Fine

Crank = Fine

Block = Fine

Bearings = Will die without pump, sump and balancer (otherwise Fine)

Head and Head Gasket = Fine

Value guides = Lotto, they die at stock power, they die at big power... Roll your dice

Fix the issues and you should have nice reliable motoring. If not you can always replace with a nice low km R34 motor for less than half a rebuild

Thanks for the input Simon, spoke to rob about your build the other day, I do not want to go anywhere near your power figure but alot of the things you have done and recommend I will include whether or not they are "absolutely" necessary as I am more interested in having a safe bullet proof engine and tune than pushing it.

Will be a few months before anything drastic happens anyway while I collect parts but everyone here has definitely given me alot of good advice to think about.

Cheers

[SimonR32]

Thanks for the input Simon, spoke to rob about your build the other day, I do not want to go anywhere near your power figure but alot of the things you have done and recommend I will include whether or not they are "absolutely" necessary as I am more interested in having a safe bullet proof engine and tune than pushing it.

Will be a few months before anything drastic happens anyway while I collect parts but everyone here has definitely given me alot of good advice to think about.

Cheers

I assume you mean Rob from JPC, he will point you in the right direction. My power isn't what I would recommend for most people but most of the "safety" stuff I have done I would be suggesting you do even with stock power.

[Ambi3nce]

I assume you mean Rob from JPC, he will point you in the right direction. My power isn't what I would recommend for most people but most of the "safety" stuff I have done I would be suggesting you do even with stock power.

Yeah Rob from JPC, that was the advice he gave me also, get the engine out do the basic bolt ons and future proof it by strengthening oil system and water pump etc.