Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Firstly, I apologise for acting so desperate, honestly I am... I have loved Skylines my whole life, saved up a long time to buy a non turbo R24 25GT on my P plates...

I will stop boring you guys and get to the problem: (I am sorry in advance if I have posted in the wrong area also)

Problem:

MOST of the times I slow down (while braking), or coming to a stop, the REVS in my car bounce, and the engine tries to stay alive, it fails, and the car stalls. I can restart the car in one go which is followed by BLACK smoke (which I guess is indicating excess fuel burning). This will only stay for a few seconds. When I take off, there is a bit of a uneven acceleration.

When I accelerate, no issue, just when I am braking or slowing down, revs bounce up and down, car stalls.

Mechanic Actions and Repairs:

The mechanic did the following (I did SELF research and understood he did as much as he could)

1. Repaired Vacum Leaks

2. Cleaned Throttle Body

3. Replaced Choke

4. Adjusted Throttle Sensor

5. ECU scan = No Errors

7. Fuel Pump checked fine

8. Fuel pressure at idle and running is fine

9. Fuel Filter cleaned (SENSORS READ FINE, BUT SOMEONE SUGGESTED THIS MIGHT BE THE ISSUE and needs replacement)

10. Air Mass Filter cleaned

For 3 days it was fine, and again the car started to act up as I was driving around on the 4th day. Mechanic again had a look, adjusted the throttle sensor a bit and everyone is clueless.

I am a student...and I work full time.... without a car, I need to take unpaid hours off to attend classes... I would be extremely grateful if someone can point me in the right direction. I did all self research and now just lost and frustrated.

Thank you in advance.

Edited by Jay88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430147-urgent-help-required/
Share on other sites

Hi mate,

Firstly thank you for your reply. Appreciate it very much. I am not much of a mechanic and not sure what the air filter I use is. However, i remember once a mechanic banged the air filter with his hands (the mass air filter in the engine) and the car kinda started smooth. But the sensors read no errors. :/

Not much help, but it might point you in the right direction.

Okay, I saw a couple of things that doesn't sound right.

3. Replaced Choke - Your car doesn't have a carburettor, so there is no "choke". What you would look at in regards to this is the coolant temp sensor (two pin plug near the thermostat housing, yellow I think). Not really relevant to your issue though.

4. Adjusted Throttle Sensor - You usually don't need to do this. Is your car automatic?

9. Fuel Filter cleaned (SENSORS READ FINE, BUT SOMEONE SUGGESTED THIS MIGHT BE THE ISSUE and needs replacement) - You don't clean the fuel filter, you replace it with a new one. I forgot the exact price, but I think they go for about $25.

10. Air Mass Filter cleaned - I'm guessing this is the air filter? Throw it in the bin and replace with a new one. Paper air filter (Ryco A360) go for $10-15 dollars.

I can think of two things:

1. AFM - the air flow meter (on the air box) is playing up (clean with contact cleaner as mentioned). Might need solder fix (search in the how-to section), or replacement with a known working one.

2. IAC or AAC - auxillary air or idle air control valves on the intake plenum. Usually you take them out carefully and clean them up. I think they is a guide in the how-to section.

Does it run fine when it's cold?

Check your brake booster, could be stuffed causing a vacum leak when braking - therefore stalling.

Should NOT have had to adjust the throttle sensor IMHO - that's just masking the actual issue.

Change mechanic quick smart - to be quite honest his troubleshooting methology seems bit dodge.

you say the car blows black smoke when you get it running again, could the plugs be fouled from unburnt fuel? i know its a different engine (RB30E) but i had the same sort of issues you have, i got it sorted but i needed to change spark plugs to getting it running sweet again

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, it will take a fair amount of solution but the sodium citrate + citric acid + detergent is cheap stuff. Use laundry detergent instead of dish soap if you want to reduce the bubbles, also you could just buy sodium citrate and add some citric acid to the mix until you get to a weakly acidic solution if you don't feel like dealing with all the bubbling generated by adding everything together. For a fuel tank you need quite a lot of distilled water but it's probably worth the effort.
    • Actually looks like a Nitrous setup now 😆
    • @robbo_rb180 I already have a NEO head on the shitbox 😎 Just needs beehive springs so I can rev it past the 8600 rpm limiter, then again pointless too, turbo is out of puff lol. Wen da gods let me win lotto eh?
    • Everyone I know with a90 supra at time attack aren't having issues with 3-5 fast laps so far and one is decent powered one too. Saw a k24 swapped 86 with a 8hp70 and big slicks and aero which had no drama's at QR and Manton Park. I've stuck a 25 row cooler in my setup with 8hp45/50 in the hopes of keeping the oil cool as I plan on some racing next year that 20-30min sessions. I've also geared my car so won't be using 7th and 8th gear too. @Dose Pipe Sutututu just needs to get that samsonas in already and have that tassie guy fit a head and rev it too 11ty thousand rpm. 
    • My embedded systems thoughts have me sitting with GTS on this. Variation between same phone hardware, should be small. However, the internal "intensity" or "volume" amount that say Google passes to the app, will be quite different, as the underlying hardware will be passing different levels for the same volume to the Google OS. Until the app creator has had each individual phone, and set benchmarks and calibrations for each, the amount of error can be quite huge.   It can even be observed by using different phones, recording the same noise, and then playing it back, they end up soon ding different. A big reason for it, is even the different types of mics used in phones have different responses, and different frequency ranges. Then you need to get into the DSP, and the variations in those, their sample rates which then effect their frequency range, and then the quality of the DSP, and what type of hardware conversion they do to for the ADC within the DSP. Oh, and let's not forget at the low level phones are designed to cutout loud sounds. It's one of the reasons they suck in really loud environments (eg concerts). The louder you yell, the more you'll get cutout too Note DSP is Digital Signal Processor ADC is the analogue to data converter. I don't have any real data on what the variation would truly be, however, chat GPT says in general, their output is typically between +/-2dB to +/-5dB of what you're really measuring. So realistically, anything from 4 to 10dB variation is possible even with the same devices.
×
×
  • Create New...