Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Would like to get a feel of what people are using in terms of oil coolers, sandwich plates in particular.

I'm quite sold on a 19 row for 4 hot laps, running Castrol Edge 10W-60 on approximately 300rwkw and

350rwkw+ when it's tuned for E85. Cooler to be mounted driver side behind indicator. Happy to be

advised otherwise if that is not sufficient.

I have not come across many sandwich plates that include the thermostat, oil temp + press sensor holes

and cooler line fittings all in one.

One that I have found is from MPR:

http://forum.twincam.org.au/topic/3392-oil-filtercooler-thermostatic-sandwich-plate/

Seems to be the go, but just wondering if there are alternatives.

Cheers

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/
Share on other sites

Mine has the oil sensors and everything fitted to the block! It is the Genuine Greddy sandwich plate with Speedflow fittings, MSCN black braided lines and just a JJ core... Should be more pics and info in my build thread somewhere (Link is in my sig)...

This is not a perfect setup but works fine so far!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969652
Share on other sites

Mine has the oil sensors and everything fitted to the block! It is the Genuine Greddy sandwich plate with Speedflow fittings, MSCN black braided lines and just a JJ core... Should be more pics and info in my build thread somewhere (Link is in my sig)...

This is not a perfect setup but works fine so far!

Similar to this?

http://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-engine-oil-block-adapter-type-e-57mm-51270

That is what Charles recommneded for me off the forums

Though Michael's one also has an inbuilt thermostat which is awesome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969668
Share on other sites

Haha! Yeah I was just on your page 2 seconds ago! Neat setup!

Does it take long for you to get to temp on the street?

I would say thermostat is mandatory for me considering I'll still be driving the car on the street.

My friend with a 19 row with no thermostat and a piece of cardboard in front of the cooler takes quite a while to get to temp still.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969681
Share on other sites

Haha! Yeah I was just on your page 2 seconds ago! Neat setup!

Does it take long for you to get to temp on the street?

I would say thermostat is mandatory for me considering I'll still be driving the car on the street.

My friend with a 19 row with no thermostat and a piece of cardboard in front of the cooler takes quite a while to get to temp still.

Mine runs a thermostat! It does take a while to get up to temp but it has a pretty good cooling system setup now ;)

I am due to replace my engine/coolant thermostat as the car has been running cold so i assume once that is all done it should all work together nicely!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969698
Share on other sites

The Greddy one DOES have a thermostat?...

SPECIFICATIONS:
Application: Engine Side
Type: E (Standard Oil Cooler, Non-Relocation Type, Internal Thermostat)
Union: AN8, AN10, AN12
Center Bolt: 3/4x16UNF, M20xP1.5

A DIY cooler set up will cost less than or around $400.


$140 for Greddy Sandwich plate
$150-180 for 19 row Mocal cooler (I bought Mocal because its said that every cooler has been tested to hold 180psi before leaving factory)
$10 x 4 -10AN fittings from Torques UK

3m of black nylon braided hoses

The Greddy thermostat opens up fully at 80 degrees and I think slightly open before that. It is also been tried and tested by many and proven to be very good lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969742
Share on other sites

The Greddy one DOES have a thermostat?...

SPECIFICATIONS:

Application: Engine Side

Type: E (Standard Oil Cooler, Non-Relocation Type, Internal Thermostat)

Union: AN8, AN10, AN12

Center Bolt: 3/4x16UNF, M20xP1.5

A DIY cooler set up will cost less than or around $400.

$140 for Greddy Sandwich plate

$150-180 for 19 row Mocal cooler

$10 x 4 -10AN fittings from Torques UK

3m of black nylon braided hoses

The Greddy thermostat opens up fully at 80 degrees and I think slightly open before that. It is also been tried and tested by many and proven to be very good lol

Yeah sounds like a good combo!

I thought it was 86 degrees or something but that is pushing my memory and my memory is generally useless :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969746
Share on other sites

Yeah sounds like a good combo!

I thought it was 86 degrees or something but that is pushing my memory and my memory is generally useless :P

From my shitty memory, I thought it's 80 haha, but I know they slowly open up before it gets to 8x degrees.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969748
Share on other sites

Charles saves the day

I can't read haha

Lol you cant read, we cant remember! Must be an SAU thing.....

But yes they do have a thermostat! The guys at Greddy were awesome to deal with too!

If you want to run gauges make sure you order the adapters for them (Where the blanking plugs are in the image on my thread)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969756
Share on other sites

What gauges would you run? Because I already have oil temp on my MFD, then oil pressure on my cluster, is there anything else that's cool and worth installing? haha

Not in the oil block! Sounds like you have it covered.... I just ran the 3 factory location gauges with Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Water temp!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969762
Share on other sites

Next project is to protect the back of the core from rocks from the front tyre.... And THEN try work out some ducting to get it some airflow as we ran it nice and high to keep it out of harms way.... I wanted to locate some of the vents that Andrew has in the front of his standard GTT bar but no luck so far! Looks like an aftermarket foglight surround or something but would be good as a small duct for airflow!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430238-oil-coolers/#findComment-6969768
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...