Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, i'm new to this forum and relatively new in the Sky land...

My project consist in a Skyline HCR32 (GTS-t) '93 with few modifications.

Maybe the bigger one was de LHD conversion.

I bougth it close to stock, just spoiler removed and front strut bar.

Others mods made after that are:

- Hicas removed

- Front mounted IC

- Apexi+custom CAI

- Turbo upgrade GT2060RS (with ATP T3 turbine housing)

- Greddy profect e01 boost controller

- JIC coilovers

- Work Meister S1 17"

This car is Trackday and rides oriented, but other uses are not discarded (like drift).

ok right, stop boring you with my poor english and share some pics... (edit: i'think can't attach files yet...)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

About two month after rising boost up to 1 bar (knowing the possible consequences), i get blue smoke everywhere...

So, looking here and there for best turbo upgrade option (here don't have many), finally i bought a Garrett GT2860RS with ATP T3 exhaust housing (which have 5-bolt ford pattern flange) and an adapter 5-bolt -> V-Band with internal wastegate port.

This way i can keep the exhaust manifold and just fabricate the downpipe. But in the future i'm thinking run an external wg setup.

post-118185-0-48326800-1388407257_thumb.jpg

Then i reuse the original wastegate valve...

post-118185-0-20851300-1388407553_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-65853500-1388407559_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-50148000-1388407568_thumb.jpg

Bought a whater&oil line kit for this turbo & RB20

post-118185-0-04509700-1388408937_thumb.jpg

And the downpipe fabrication...

post-118185-0-76669600-1388407947_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-15262100-1388407841_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-60088800-1388407623_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-55078600-1388407824_thumb.jpg

I can provide any details (or more pics) about this upgrade, just ask :)

Edited by DLP_HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7156577
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Thanks mate!

Yes, very unsafe, without the bar it flex a lot, i think in a crash will oppose force at all. So you are right, the cage (with lateral bars) is a must, but here is not too easy to find a P&P one (if not impossible), and cage makers are barely existent (and good)... this is a small country too far from the rest of the world ! but i'm on that...

I have not had a chance to weigh it up yet, but i think that will be close to 10Kg with the polycarbonate.

BTW, this are spare doors, so i will keep the originals intact ;-)

Edited by DLP_HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7231702
Share on other sites

In Australia our racing is organised by CAMS.

They set all the rules ans regulations, they have the requirements of roll cages on their web site.

If you can weld well, maybe you could make your own, and use the guide to make a safe cage.

http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/GeneralRequirements/GQ11-Schedule-J-2014-1.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7231893
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

about a month ago i blew my rb20, so... rb25det swap FTW!

i bought a 25 S2 from a local JDM importer shop. Local but still thousands of miles from me...

so,...big was my surprise when i take the gearbox apart and saw this... :)

post-118185-0-79347000-1400301409_thumb.jpg post-118185-0-27286700-1400301393_thumb.jpg

Front face intake plenum installation....

post-118185-0-15061800-1400301397_thumb.jpg post-118185-0-40310500-1400301401_thumb.jpg

So far so looking good :)

post-118185-0-82299400-1400301405_thumb.jpg

I will reuse from rb20 the ecu (nistuned), harness (except injectors). and spark coils / ignitor...

Edited by DLP_HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7285504
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Re-routing the water to bypass the heater...

In every forum i've seen, ppl just eliminate the heater making a bypass between the two hoses that go through the firewall. But in that way, the water will pass through it and not through the cooler (the easiest way). I think forcing the water pass only through the oil cooler is a better way and more similar to the oem flow design.

post-118185-0-57680700-1401739418_thumb.jpg

Another wired idea: reusing the oem cross pipe with the front face intake :-|

post-118185-0-69702500-1401739442_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-47459200-1401739479_thumb.jpg

just cuting and rotating should be ok...isn't?

fmic...

post-118185-0-29128700-1401739392_thumb.jpg

Most of work done...

post-118185-0-93104200-1401739371_thumb.jpg

Need to finish the inyectors harness and transmision mount...

post-118185-0-55561500-1401739461_thumb.jpg

post-118185-0-96113900-1401740528_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7300934
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know mentally you're set on the ATS clutch but honestly I'm a big fan of the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin. It's much cheaper and in some ways I think it's a better design for a street/circuit car.
    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
×
×
  • Create New...