Shed Prices And Questions

[No Crust Racing]

I thought as much.

I'm having them concrete the outside edge of the slab to ground so the fill stays in under it, I'll do the same with the apron.

I think rather than cut on the high side I'd rather fill on the low side and retain that with a concrete sleeper or two as it's closer to the fence and will be less unsightly.

I was curious as to whether or not aprons are sometimes laid "with" the land so to speak, so in my case there'd be quite an apron on the low side that would need to extend a good 1-1.5m to get a suitable entry angle, but on the high side it'd be quite short, as such it'd have more of a triangle shape. I suppose that could be done but it might look retarded.

[warps]

Yes, it would look retarded. Better to have a rectangular apron that follows the contour of the land, like most driveways (within reason of course)

[No Crust Racing]

An update and some questions.

The shed is now completed for the most part.

But there's a problem

The concreters did not think it would be a good idea to taper the slab off where the roller door would go and unsurprisingly, water that hits the door (tested with hose but rain comes from that way) wants to flow under the door.

What options do I have given the apron is level with the slab, (another thing they ignored me on as I suggested there should be a lip even a tiny one)

Is it feasible to think about getting a concrete grinder and taking 5mm off from where the roller door seats to the edge fo the apron (maybe 100mm to the edge of the slab) the water could then drain down between the apron or run along that little lip and out the side.

[No Crust Racing]

Or maybe something like this?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181191405071?var=480263075305&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Edited November 19, 2013 by ActionDan

[Cowboy1600]

That garage seal would be a shite load easier. If it doesn't work, try something a little more involved.

[No Crust Racing]

Thinking that might be the ticket.

I'm might also just leave the "random" cut they put into the apron from one side to about 800mm in thinking that would solve it (without calling me first...)

idiots.

Real shame too, slab itself is really nice. they just jumped the shark with the Apron.

[C4a0s]

any pics of your current progress?

[jiffo]

Building weather steps into a slab is something that must be discussed with the concretor prior to the pour as it involves a LOT of work to be done correctly and labour wise, it means an extra bloke simply for the door steps.

If the concretor has a big crew the door step man is usually also on the vibrator. (If it's a small crew, probably no vibrator anyway)

You must also supply the concretor exact door dimensions including dimensions of the curtain and tracks.

I usually allow 50mm back for the curtain and 50mm wider than door opening to allow for the tracks.

I don't like tapering approaches (as they're difficult) rather I prefer a 20mm step that the curtain drops into.

The concretor will screw a 20mm thick removable strip of timber to the slab formwork. Once the slab concrete is placed, that strip is removed and then the edges etc are tidied up. It's a tedious job, sponging and working with flimsy edges of concrete.

If any of the dimensions supplied are wrong, you will have frames sitting in the air (if the shed is a frame design) or worse the curtain will still hit concrete when it's down.

If the design is a portal frame style, accuracy is not quite as important so long as he makes his weather tapers or steps much larger than the door opening.

In any case the door curtain should come with a soft seal attached across the full width and it seals well when pressed hard against the slab.

But unless there's a weather step, rain water will still run across to the tracks and then into the shed.

[No Crust Racing]

There was a guy on the vibrator.

I think I'll just get the weather strip, I just want the concreter to pay for it ($100) since they stuffed up the apron.

Don't like my chances.

Some pics for you. 620mm above natural in that back corner..

Shed is 7x10.5, aircel in the roof plus whirly bird. PAD, single 5m door with motor. Shed slab was helicoptered, standard 100mm, 25mpa.

Not the best but for what it's cost me I'm pretty happy.

[C4a0s]

very nice

makes me wanna get one too

[jiffo]

Shed looks nice.

He's done an edge rebate for the bottom of the wall sheets rather than let them fly over and then vermin proof so he's got the smarts.

With a portal frame style of shed as you have the dimensions for a doorway sloping weather edge aren't quite so critical so he could have formed a sloping threshold, seems he had the manpower available.

(You can see how the door mullions would be hanging in the air if he made any sort of weather edge wider than the opening, you need accurate dimensions marked on the boxing)

Truck would have backed in over the mesh and worked his way out. Then re-fit the last pieces of boxing, which is where the door is too, so the crete would have been quite workable to form the weather edge.

Don't see any fly braces on the rafters, have a check of your design drawings to see if they're required.

[Kane_R32]

I want I want I want.

#jealous

[warps]

That's looking good, Dan.

Just ask yourself this: Is it better than what you had before? If yes then win.

Remember, regardless how big it is, it'll never be big enough. Just accept this fact of life and you'll enjoy it much more. You just get to be more creative with storage ideas.

You'll get plenty of years joy out of it

[No Crust Racing]

Yeah it's definitely better than my 6x6 garage on the house. Which will be great when I clear out all the shelves to put in the big shed and can park my work car in there

So we'll have the 6x6 garage, 3x3 garden shed, and 7x10.5 shed

Could be worse.

[Hertz Donut]

It could be worse, yeah. At the moment I have a leaky 6x6 carport partly filled with firewood and a leaky 3.6x2.4 shed that's falling apart and packed to the gunwales with junk so all my power tools and trolley jack are at the foot of the bed. fml.

[warps]

It could be worse, yeah. At the moment I have a leaky 6x6 carport partly filled with firewood and a leaky 3.6x2.4 shed that's falling apart and packed to the gunwales with junk so all my power tools and trolley jack are at the foot of the bed. fml.

You get to keep your tools in your bedroom? Lucky

[Angus Smart]

Hey dan, i put something in the motorsport section about epoxy floor coatings.

i am half way thru the job at my new house and its turning out great.

i recommend you do this to the floor. requires cleaning, grinding or acid etching first but its now water proof, and most of all oil and spills will clean up easily.

cost about 350 to do (including buying shit like paint poles and rollers, face masks for the acid, chemicals and the epoxy itself. 10L has done two coats on my 6x6 floor with plenty left over so yours should be done with 10L too. but once done it lasts years alot better wearing than paints

[No Crust Racing]

Sounds like something I should have done before the shed was up.

[No Crust Racing]

After sweeping and pressure washing I thought to myself, it'll never be this empty or this clean.

So I made the call to go ahead and seal it, Did the apron too.

Such a fun job. Back is stuffed today (was already bad). Delicate IT hands are blistered etc.

[boxheadmr]

Looks great