Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

THIS IS ALL I HAVE LEFT.
Please don't ask for anything else, PLEASE READ THE AD.

This is it, and I need it all gone.

Mint boot trims (NO CARPET.) - $100. (sides, covers, back panel, all in really good nic)
Firewall and plastic firewall piece. - $25
MINT CARPET. - $200
Japanese fuse box cover (interior) - $10
Gauge cluster - really good nic, 145xxxkm - $100
G Sensor - $100 (not red, still good.)
Stock AFM's - $40 each. (have 4)
Kick panels, rear lower side trims, main centre console piece, glove box lid, all in good nic - prices on request.
Coil packs ON ALLOY RAILS - $150 for the lot.
Factory intercooler, GOOD NIC - $150
"Spool" cam gears - $60 for both.
Alloy cam gear retainer bracket/C.A.S mount - $15.
C.A.S - $200.
Factory battery cover - $10.
Injectors on rail - $160 for the lot.
Front calipers (Sumitomo, worked fine, original) - $180 both.
AC pump and condenser and canister (all of those..) - $80.
CENTER ROOF LIGHT - $15 (good nick)
FRONT ROOF LIGHTS - $20
1003302_602844359760609_749431060_n.jpg971143_602844369760608_1381124455_n.jpg988244_602844493093929_2101352742_n.jpg992795_602844609760584_1756802911_n.jpg44529_602846066427105_195447538_n.jpg1011935_602846226427089_134162092_n.jpg64009_602846229760422_548952021_n.jpg1002838_602846316427080_1246201876_n.jpg1001661_602846673093711_768085701_n.jpg992908_602846736427038_1530265696_n.jpg1013562_602847203093658_1883678826_n.jpg1157676_622996151078763_712580266_n.jpg1005665_622996207745424_2074941224_n.jpg1150199_622996224412089_1263568091_n.jpg526855_622996227745422_777887288_n.jpg1175298_622996254412086_902364889_n.jpg1146744_622996281078750_1105239701_n.jpg1174590_622996367745408_1611000848_n.jpg

PIX.


IT ALL WORKS.
IT HAS TO GO.
AND IT HAS TO GO SOON!

Like seriously, I need the space.
Chop chop.
CHEEP CHEEP PRICEZ.

Wont post.
Sorry.

Hornsby Area.
Martin.
PM or text on 0431045486.

Edited by RBMunkie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430564-last-of-32-gtr-parts/
Share on other sites

Still got looms, mechanical minor stuff, coilpacks, two airflow meters, carpet, parcel tray, aircon gear, front brakes, some interior trim. Roof lights, eye level brake light, dash cluster, etc.

Hi,

I know you said won't post, but if you change your mind I will take the last 2 x AFM's off your hands.

Just throw them in a padded bag at the local post office and post, won't cost much at all.

Let me know if you can and I will arrange payment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...