Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just bought a v35 350gt 03 model, picked it up fairly cheap and keen to make a profit on it. But in the mean time this VDC system really shits me, even when VDC is 'off' it only changes the parameters of the VDC algorithm which just delays the time in which it takes to interfere.

Anyway after trawling the net i found how to disable it correctly while still keeping ABS active (pulling the vdc fuse disables ABS also), many of you may already know how to do this.

Just interested to see if it's worth me making a 'How to' thread for everyone else that's frustrated by this safety feature.

On mine holding the VDC button in for around 10 seconds disables the VDC system to allow me to do standstill burnouts and drive on the track significantly more aggressively. It would seem the Yanks G35 do not have this feature, so they have created a hard-wired unit that does it with a switch.

On mine holding the VDC button in for around 10 seconds disables the VDC system to allow me to do standstill burnouts and drive on the track significantly more aggressively. It would seem the Yanks G35 do not have this feature, so they have created a hard-wired unit that does it with a switch.

I've tried this on mine, and it still flashes 'slip' on the dash whilst drifting and brings my drift to a halt. (can do stand stills in this mode though). What year model do you have?

EDIT:

Just noticed you have an 03 model also.

Edited by FredFrothen

Yeah 03. I haven't tried drifting, but I can do a very mean standstill and figure 8 burnout with no disruption by the VDC system. Maybe when you drift you activate the anti-yaw system, which I believe can't be fully turned off?

  • Like 1

Yeah 03. I haven't tried drifting, but I can do a very mean standstill and figure 8 burnout with no disruption by the VDC system. Maybe when you drift you activate the anti-yaw system, which I believe can't be fully turned off?

Yer that's what this mod messes with, the 'g sensor/yaw sensor'.

when I did a skidpan in mine the slip light seemed to only come on when I used the brakes to help swing the back around

Was a lot mor obvious in the afternnon when it rained and whenever you used the brakes it would thing you are locking up so the ABS/anti slip chucked a spaz... gave up after that

When you hold it for 10 seconds - is there any indication that it's different from just turning it off? Can you actually feel the car behaving differently?

Reason I ask is I've tried both at hillclimbs & gymkhanas, and I can't feel anything different. I'm not convinced that there is a difference. I can tell you that Collingrove with VDC on is not much fun - first sign of slip & it basically cut power. Was the first run on a cold wet morning & thought I'd play safe - duh.

Under the centre console there is a bosch sensor;

add a switch into the orange wire

be warned; you can't reactivate traction control unless you clear the code in Cipher, or restart the engine.

When you hold it for 10 seconds - is there any indication that it's different from just turning it off? Can you actually feel the car behaving differently?

Reason I ask is I've tried both at hillclimbs & gymkhanas, and I can't feel anything different. I'm not convinced that there is a difference. I can tell you that Collingrove with VDC on is not much fun - first sign of slip & it basically cut power. Was the first run on a cold wet morning & thought I'd play safe - duh.

No there is no indication. But I know it has turned off when I can rip a standstill skid or do figure-8 burnouts

Under the centre console there is a bosch sensor;

add a switch into the orange wire

be warned; you can't reactivate traction control unless you clear the code in Cipher, or restart the engine.

^ 10 points, this was the write up i was going to do.

Probably still will for future reference, plan on doing it friday arvo or saturday. Will include pictures and dis-assembly pics from the workshop manual.

As for holding the VDC button down for 10 secs, when i do this the 'VDC OFF' light goes out.

  • Like 1

Joys of base model sedan. No VDC, No traction control.....Nothing. Dont have to worry about this crap. Wish you guys all the best

They all have traction control and ABS. but VDC was an option on the 250GT and 300GT.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...